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Moebius Skipjack

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  • I soldered three sections of brass tube together to get the diameter of ballast blow vents. I used Dremel grinding bits to make a custom end mill, not sure what I was doing. Was able to get two decent cutting edges. I chucked up the custom end mill and floated the drill bit in the handle as a guide. Only problem is the tubing does not come in 7/64 inside dia so I went down to 3/32 for the drill bit guide. The bit has a little slop in the already drilled vent holes which are 7/64. If I try to drill the end mill tubes out to 7/64 I'm sure it fall apart.

    Holy cow! It actually worked! But it's only good for this one size. I did the sample by hand. Only have to remove a few thousandths.

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    • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
      David, package received, thank you. More work to do.



      Yea was thinking something water based. You're right of course, keep it to one chemistry, but finding the color I liked, the charcoal gray was my issue. But I could have used Tamiya primer, Tamiya red, and it still could have that surface bleed thru or what ever its called.
      Of course I'm right. YOU PEOPLE!...

      You, like so many others, have permitted yourself to become a slave to the rattle-can, its so-called convenience in turn denies you the ability to color match to suit your wants. Staying with the same chemistry is vital, as you've found out.

      Try this: buy all the primary colors, and black and white, and clear-coat in the rattle-can chemistry of your choice. Decant them and break out your trusty MK1 Mod0 air-brush and mix and shoot as required.








      Resident Luddite

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      • Buy FLAT red, blue, yellow, black, white and clear, all the same brand (I already have Rustoleum)
        Decant
        Mix to desired color (I am LOUSY at colors)
        Spray from my new air brush, that I have not used yet

        My lower hull (red) is fine!
        The upper hull which I have not painted yet, I have all the same brand rattle can paint. BUT, my test with clear on the charcoal gray turns the charcoal gray to black. So I won't be clear coating or just paint it black. Unless someone can tell me otherwise.
        Last edited by Ken_NJ; 08-03-2021, 08:46 PM.

        Comment


        • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
          Buy FLAT red, blue, yellow, black, white and clear, all the same brand (I already have Rustoleum)
          Decant
          Mix to desired color (I am LOUSY at colors)
          Spray from my new air brush, that I have not used yet

          My lower hull (red) is fine!
          The upper hull which I have not painted yet, I have all the same brand rattle can paint. BUT, my test with clear on the charcoal gray turns the charcoal gray to black. So I won't be clear coating or just paint it black. Unless someone can tell me otherwise.
          Go to your local art-supply store and buy a 'color-wheel'. Makes mixing to desired color easy. Walmart used to sell them in their 'crafts' section of the store.

          ALWAYS apply a clear coat to even things out and protect the finish from abrasion and such.

          Do your color checking under sunlight. You might be surprised.

          David
          Resident Luddite

          Comment


          • Wow David-interesting decanting method-I wonder if you were to put the can in the freezer for a bit, and when you nail the can and invert ..would the pressure (and the possible mess) be much less .

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Bob Gato View Post
              Wow David-interesting decanting method-I wonder if you were to put the can in the freezer for a bit, and when you nail the can and invert ..would the pressure (and the possible mess) be much less .
              Bob,

              Yes, the process, at room temperature, is just asking for a painted ceiling if you over-size the vent/drain hole. That's why I punch the small hole outside, away from the van!

              What I do is punch the smallest of holes and let the majority of the propellant boil away. Only when the sound of escaping propellent gas is just a whisper do I invert the rattle-can onto the glass jar I use to hold the decanted paint. Residual propellant is enough to force the paint out the hole without too much drama. Believe me, the process is an acquired art.
              And if things go wrong with the process, things go VERY WRONG, and do so in a split second. Too big a hole, the paint will froth and shoot out the hole and into your face, ceiling, and any near-by spectators.



              David
              Resident Luddite

              Comment


              • David. Can you show or point me to a link on how you painted the bow of the Skipjack? Can’t seem to find how you did it.

                Comment


                • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                  David. Can you show or point me to a link on how you painted the bow of the Skipjack? Canât seem to find how you did it.
                  That and a few other masking-painting tricks for you, Ken:























                  Resident Luddite

                  Comment


                  • The dive plane surfaces are left with the thin lines representing the inner framework. And the concave surface simulation is airbrushed with white paint? Or a custom color you mixed?

                    The sail is taped once, airbrushed, taped again airbrushed, with white or a mixture again?

                    What is used to whitewash the upper hull? I think I can find how you did that here someplace or at the WMU forum... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=2012733353

                    The upper sonar dome has a lot happening.
                    The upper half painted a lighter gray.
                    The lower half painted hull red.
                    Then both are prayed with a darker medium gray.
                    Then the scum line is applied from the waterline down.
                    Sound about right?

                    I'm going to get the boat painted with the basic colors, then after Groton and Subfest go crazy with this weathering, or TRY. Never used an airbrush so will have to do practicing before I tackle this. And decanting.

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                      The dive plane surfaces are left with the thin lines representing the inner framework. And the concave surface simulation is airbrushed with white paint? Or a custom color you mixed?

                      The sail is taped once, airbrushed, taped again airbrushed, with white or a mixture again?

                      What is used to whitewash the upper hull? I think I can find how you did that here someplace or at the WMU forum... https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...gid=2012733353

                      The upper sonar dome has a lot happening.
                      The upper half painted a lighter gray.
                      The lower half painted hull red.
                      Then both are prayed with a darker medium gray.
                      Then the scum line is applied from the waterline down.
                      Sound about right?

                      I'm going to get the boat painted with the basic colors, then after Groton and Subfest go crazy with this weathering, or TRY. Never used an airbrush so will have to do practicing before I tackle this. And decanting.
                      Not white. A lightened shade of the base color, be it black (the sail) or red (the horizontal stabilizers and lower rudder).

                      Are you talking about the vertical 'streaking' on the sides of the hull? That is done with heavily thinned out water-soluble paint. Most of the paint wrung out of the pain-brush before application -- almost like dry brushing. The streaking color? Various grays with a hint of brown and orange. I've tossed in additional pictures showing the oil-canning technique. The important thing is -- since the initial streaking or oil-canning shades are too stark you are compelled to over-spray those areas with the base color as a 'mist coat' to soften the contrast. That's the secrete, to only suggest these variances, not hit the observer over the head with them.

                      These pictures illustrate:

























                      Resident Luddite

                      Comment


                      • David, really great information there. I think some new photos I have not seen.
                        Hopefully see you in GA.
                        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by trout View Post
                          David, really great information there. I think some new photos I have not seen.
                          Hopefully see you in GA.
                          Yeah. It would be good to finally hook-up Tom. Here's to Georgia! "On to.... INFINITY!"

                          David
                          Resident Luddite

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by trout View Post
                            Hopefully see you in GA.
                            Yeah!!! That would be great!

                            Comment


                            • How's this look David? Like I said, I'm awful with colors. Don't know if there is a preferred type.

                              https://smile.amazon.com/Cox-133343-...75&sr=8-3&th=1

                              Comment


                              • Originally posted by Ken_NJ View Post
                                How's this look David? Like I said, I'm awful with colors. Don't know if there is a preferred type.

                                https://smile.amazon.com/Cox-133343-...75&sr=8-3&th=1
                                That's the one, Ken. Get it!

                                Here's one I use all the time -- pretty much the same thing you're getting.

                                And while you're on evilbay get the federal standard color chip booklet -- useful when you tell me what color and I need to show you. We just swap color FSC # and we're immediately on the same page. You may note that some kit instructions call out FSC numbers when denoting what part gets painted what color. It's the 'standard' most pro's use.

                                Hope on it, Ken. Before some SOB under-bids you.

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                                Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 08-08-2021, 12:56 PM.
                                Resident Luddite

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