Could it be air is being trapped in the narrow stern. I know there's a small hole there for the rudder post collar but what about the tip?
Bronco Type XXIII in 1/35th scale
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Romel's right. And Tom's observation is valide. However, the vent on the ballast tank is at the extreme after end of the ballast tank. It's placed there to insure complete flooding of the tank as the boat takes the 'normal' down-angle as it transitions from surfaced to submerged trim.
I'm confident that there is no free-water in the tank once fully transitioned to submerged trim. But, you've given me something else to give a second-look too.
M
Good move putting the vent towards the aft end, Genius! My Gato went in a steep dive once, awkward nose down angle, early in the trimming stage. It got trapped in an un-natural angle because of the air. Pretty sad to see it dangle like that. OK. just throwing ideas out there. Maybe something will stick.
I am sure I know the answer and that you verified this already, Are you positive you do not have the leveler set just the opposite of what it should be? In other wards if nose goes up the leveler is not trying to bring the aft down.If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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http://forum.sub-driver.com/attachme...8&d=1364077418
This is the area I'm pertaining to. The area in front acts like a scoop funneling in air during surface runs. What if air trapped here causes the boat to pitch down. Even though there's a hole on top, water tension could be preventing air to vent.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Romel is a pretty smart person!
Good move putting the vent towards the aft end, Genius! My Gato went in a steep dive once, awkward nose down angle, early in the trimming stage. It got trapped in an un-natural angle because of the air. Pretty sad to see it dangle like that. OK. just throwing ideas out there. Maybe something will stick.
I am sure I know the answer and that you verified this already, Are you positive you do not have the leveler set just the opposite of what it should be? In other wards if nose goes up the leveler is not trying to bring the aft down.
Before I started calling you all sorts of mean names after reading your suggestion that I got the angle-keeper in there backwards I recalled that on at least two occasions I did just that! So, good call, Tom. But (this time, anyway) that is not the case with this boat: I've taken good care to validate that stern plane response to angular change is in the correct direction.
Check twice and cut once, as they say. Still looking for that magic answer. We know its out there, but currently out of reach.
I'm looking forward to reports from Big Dave and Manfred on how their Bronco Type-23's perform.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Maybe we need to call father Damian. You know, to exorcise the demons Very Angry.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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David I know you made sure the prop shaft was true and you've probably considered what I am suggesting but could the actual propeller be off, in that it's thrust will push the nose down? I have read that these boats could crash dive at 9 seconds!! What about setting the forward planes a little positive. Between that and the adf then countering it may run more level, that's how I get my robbe seawolf to stay below.Cheers,
Alec.
Reality is but a dream...
But to dream is a reality
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David I know you made sure the prop shaft was true and you've probably considered what I am suggesting but could the actual propeller be off, in that it's thrust will push the nose down? I have read that these boats could crash dive at 9 seconds!! What about setting the forward planes a little positive. Between that and the adf then countering it may run more level, that's how I get my robbe seawolf to stay below.
Yeah, I've tried that as well. The propeller thrust line is now a bit to the 'rise' as far as its relationship to the boats longitudinal centerline. It was a bit to the 'dive' side, but only by a few degrees before I changed it -- so propeller thrust-line is not the issue.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Dave,
I think you got my recommendation bass ackwards. I drive the boat via bowplanes only on the right stick. Stern planes only use the angle function from the pitch controller. Not linked to any transmitter input.
Darrin
My previous post:
"Mine ran great using the bow planes for control and the stern with an angle keeper with no override control"Comment
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If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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I'm a real late comer to this party, but thought I'd chime in. I'm pretty sure that Dave saw my Type XXIII build, but here is the link in case anything in there jogs anyone's memory. There is video of underwater running along with a pretty detailed overview of the interior layout:
In my experience, the sub was very controllable both on the surface and submerged. Having a pool definitely helps diagnose issues, so I'm sure you're working at a bit of a disadvantage. I would try fully venting the tank, getting the entire model underwater, shaking the hell out of it to get any and all trapped air out, flipping it upside down just to make sure, and then running it. That will eliminate any trapped air questions and we can move on from there...
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