Over the weekend I laid down the black base-coat. Nothing reveals open seams, sanding and file scratches and other imperfections better than black! And I want all the corners, edges and tough-to-get-at stuff black so that when I lay down the colors I won't have to deal with light areas where I fail to get complete opacity.
The black check-coat was covered with a heavy clear-coat and sanded down after it dried. And what a chore that is, having to cut around all those weld and screw heads. To make the sanding task a bit easier and precise, I punched out these little #600 grit sanding discs from double-sided sandpaper with brass punches.
All in preparation for the two basic 'colors'. Dark gray below waterline and a lighter gray above waterline, with a black boot-topping serving as the demarcation band between the two grays.



To show you guys how to paint on the cheap, I employed Krylon rattle-can paints for this project. Most of the spraying has to be done with a proper air-brush, not out of the damned can ... shooting paint on a model from box-store rattle can is like hunting mice with a nuke!
To decant, you shake the can, punch a hole to vent off the propellant, and transfer the paint to a holding-jar. This is something best done outside, very carefully, and by the Wife.




And here's the shot we'll use in the catalog and packing-list. It defines all you get in a 1/35 Type-23 fittings kit.
The black check-coat was covered with a heavy clear-coat and sanded down after it dried. And what a chore that is, having to cut around all those weld and screw heads. To make the sanding task a bit easier and precise, I punched out these little #600 grit sanding discs from double-sided sandpaper with brass punches.
All in preparation for the two basic 'colors'. Dark gray below waterline and a lighter gray above waterline, with a black boot-topping serving as the demarcation band between the two grays.
To show you guys how to paint on the cheap, I employed Krylon rattle-can paints for this project. Most of the spraying has to be done with a proper air-brush, not out of the damned can ... shooting paint on a model from box-store rattle can is like hunting mice with a nuke!
To decant, you shake the can, punch a hole to vent off the propellant, and transfer the paint to a holding-jar. This is something best done outside, very carefully, and by the Wife.
And here's the shot we'll use in the catalog and packing-list. It defines all you get in a 1/35 Type-23 fittings kit.
Comment