German Type 212A 3D Print Build

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  • rwtdiver
    Vice Admiral
    • Feb 2019
    • 1797

    #31
    After a few unforeseen health delays, I am back to the 212 build.

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    With all the 3D printed parts completed, I am going to start the glue up procedures. After considerable study of the different stern section linkages, I have pretty much made up my mind as to how I am going to do!

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    I am going to use the same system design that Bob (Nautilus Drydocks) uses on his 212 A kits that he is selling. Linking it up to my new series 300 EasyDriver should be a snap! I will post up one of his build videos that show this type linkage installation.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."



    Comment

    • rwtdiver
      Vice Admiral
      • Feb 2019
      • 1797

      #32
      As I stated in the last post, here is one of the 3 construction videos that Bob has out on his 212 A kits showing the stern section control surface linkages.

      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbMwLnpzKqA&t=3855s (About 39.00 min into the video)

      Rob
      "Firemen can stand the heat."

      Comment

      • biggsgolf
        Captain
        • Jan 2020
        • 733

        #33
        Looking good!

        Comment

        • rwtdiver
          Vice Admiral
          • Feb 2019
          • 1797

          #34
          One of the ways I use to help alien the parts, is to use PLA filament.

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          The files on the 212 come with the alignment holes already provided. The standard size PLA works great for the alignment pins.

          Rob
          "Firemen can stand the heat."

          Comment

          • RCSubGuy
            Welcome to my underwater realm!
            • Aug 2009
            • 1777

            #35
            Great thinking, Rob. You could also use a soldering iron to fuse the nubs to the hull itself, almost like a permanent rivet.

            Comment

            • rwtdiver
              Vice Admiral
              • Feb 2019
              • 1797

              #36
              Originally posted by RCSubGuy
              Great thinking, Rob. You could also use a soldering iron to fuse the nubs to the hull itself, almost like a permanent rivet.
              Bob,

              You read my mind! (that's scary)

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              I am in the process of taking one of my old soldering irons, and fabricate a brass rod with a slightly flat chisel tip. This will accomplish exactly what you are suggesting.

              Rob
              "Firemen can stand the heat."

              Comment

              • rwtdiver
                Vice Admiral
                • Feb 2019
                • 1797

                #37
                Here is another tool that will help fill in gaps and make more positive joints in PLA.

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                It is a PLA Melting pen. It's great for filling gaps..

                Rob
                "Firemen can stand the heat."

                Comment

                • rwtdiver
                  Vice Admiral
                  • Feb 2019
                  • 1797

                  #38
                  Today I spent my time designing the hull cylinder holders for the 300 series EasyDriver.

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                  After I did some paper drawing for the sizing, I went to Tinker Cad and set up the design for STL printing.

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                  I am most likely going to use 4 of the holders. So I set up my Dremel to print out 2 at a time.

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                  The Velcro will not only give some padding, but will also be used as the cylinder hold downs.

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                  The holders turned out very good and fit nicely around the cylinder.

                  Rob
                  "Firemen can stand the heat."
                  Last edited by rwtdiver; 03-15-2024, 05:01 PM.

                  Comment

                  • biggsgolf
                    Captain
                    • Jan 2020
                    • 733

                    #39
                    How will you ensure Cylinder does not move forward?

                    Comment

                    • rwtdiver
                      Vice Admiral
                      • Feb 2019
                      • 1797

                      #40
                      Originally posted by biggsgolf
                      How will you ensure Cylinder does not move forward?
                      There will be a forward and aft supports for the end caps to slide into.

                      Rob
                      "Firemen can stand the heat."

                      Comment

                      • biggsgolf
                        Captain
                        • Jan 2020
                        • 733

                        #41
                        Originally posted by rwtdiver

                        There will be a forward and aft supports for the end caps to slide into.

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat."
                        Sounds good!

                        Comment

                        • rwtdiver
                          Vice Admiral
                          • Feb 2019
                          • 1797

                          #42
                          Today I managed to make a little more headway on the hull.

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                          I glued up the bow section using the PLA pins and CA. I also used the soldering iron to melt the bow section to the hull. Which by the way was another good suggestion from Bob Martin. This idea has certainly strengthened all the sections on the hull.

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                          I also 3D printed the cylinder saddles and glued them in as well.

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                          I also sized and cut the Velcro straps that will be glued inside the saddles to secure the cylinder to the saddle itself.

                          Next will come the installation of the control linkage system to the inside of the stern, and then glue the stern section to the hull.

                          Rob
                          "Firemen can stand the heat."

                          Comment

                          • Albacore 569
                            Commander
                            • Sep 2020
                            • 331

                            #43
                            As you , comparing your 212 build with my Dolphin 2 build.

                            Interesting design, that works well for the hull halves.

                            In my Dolphin 2, Bob Martin took a different tact for making my WTC supports. Because my WTC will be inside a free flooding PVC pipe, the supports for the WTC are in the ends as rings. I'm sure both ways will be effective. The future batteries will be in heat shrink tubing waterproofed between the WTC and the hull bottom.

                            The clearance isn't enough for the batteries with the PVC pipe alone, but a midships longitudinal large slot will be cut and the line of batteries laid into the PVC pipe slot out the bottom. The long bottom fairing extending down will then provide plenty of room and make the hull even more free flooding while and still scale.

                            The bottom fairing will be removeable too providing easy battery access. as well as lowering the boats center of gravity metacenter making her a more 'stiff roller'. Thats the idea will see. That stage in building approaching quickly.
                            Last edited by Albacore 569; 03-18-2024, 02:09 PM.

                            Comment

                            • rwtdiver
                              Vice Admiral
                              • Feb 2019
                              • 1797

                              #44
                              Originally posted by Albacore 569
                              As you , comparing your 212 build with my Dolphin 2 build.

                              Interesting design, that works well for the hull halves.

                              In my Dolphin 2, Bob Martin took a different tact for making my WTC supports. Because my WTC will be inside a free flooding PVC pipe, the supports for the WTC are in the ends as rings. I'm sure both ways will be effective. The future batteries will be in heat shrink tubing waterproofed between the WTC and the hull bottom.

                              The clearance isn't enough for the batteries with the PVC pipe alone, but a midships longitudinal large slot will be cut and the line of batteries laid into the PVC pipe slot out the bottom. The long bottom fairing extending down will then provide plenty of room and make the hull even more free flooding while and still scale.

                              The bottom fairing will be removeable too providing easy battery access. as well as lowering the boats center of gravity metacenter making her a more 'stiff roller'. Thats the idea will see. That stage in building approaching quickly.
                              Steven,

                              Our two boats (Dolphin & 212 A) are very similar, especially with the X tail stern.

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                              I am very impressed with the brass linkage system that you built. Really excellent work Steven! If it is OK with you, I may try and duplicate what you have done here for my 212!? It is a really clean and effective.looking system.

                              I can see where your cylinder hold downs would be different because of your PVC hull section.

                              Rob
                              "Firemen can stand the heat."

                              Comment

                              • rwtdiver
                                Vice Admiral
                                • Feb 2019
                                • 1797

                                #45
                                Before I start on the stern linkages!

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                                I sprayed the interior of the stern with a primer/paint coating. I did not want to spray paint after the linkages have been installed.

                                Rob
                                "Firemen can stand the heat."

                                Comment

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