New guy, mid life crisis, time for a submarine…

[Scrappy]

Well if I am going to do a scratch build, this is the sub I want to build

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Ahhhh... OooKaaah.

[Scrappy]

Time to crack out the graph paper and ruler!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Time to crack out the graph paper and ruler!

talk'n parts done. Get to it.

David

[QuarterMaster]

FWIW, physically and mechanically, ALVIN is best off with a Modular Box build than a WTC. See David's photo of Bob Martin up above. Easier to layout, build and suit to taste, and do maintenance on. Look at S3 T2500 or T3000 Sizes (Clear Polycarb) Here's another submersible using them...

[redboat219]

[RCSubGuy]

Some good advice here on a first boat. If you have your mind set on Alvin, so be it, but it's against the advice of vastly more experienced modelers. I'm not saying that you can't do it, but it will be exponentially harder, more expensive, and prone to failure than the other options outlined here.

Proceed at your own risk. Post progress. Let's get the glue flowing.

[rwtdiver]

Some good advice here on a first boat. If you have your mind set on Alvin, so be it, but it's against the advice of vastly more experienced modelers. I'm not saying that you can't do it, but it will be exponentially harder, more expensive, and prone to failure than the other options outlined here.

Proceed at your own risk. Post progress. Let's get the glue flowing.

Matt,



My very first boat was the Skipjack! I went very simple with design and built it as a surface runner only just to get my feet wet. I agree with Bob and David. Start out simple to learn what its about then start moving into the more complicated builds. I would also suggest looking into a WTC from Nautilus Drydocks that would work for the Skipjack and that way you would have a full operational working submarine and not just a surface runner.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[cheapsub]

Something keep you going for now.

https://youtu.be/kvMvB21mjHM

[Scrappy]

Had to take a short break (Army Field Exercise) now back to work. I would love to start with a kit to build, but I am just not a navy sub guy. I have always wanted to build a research type sub, something with lots of lights and cameras, maybe an articulating arm. Narrowing down the design, glueing layers of foam together to start the shaping for fiberglass process. I like the design of the from yaw axis thruster the subs from the Abyss use. Given there were functional rc models for filming, they appear to maneuver very well. Just not clear how they maintained pitch and roll control with no visible dive planes. Pivoting side thrusters make sense for pitch and roll. I guess differential thrust could also control yaw too.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Had to take a short break (Army Field Exercise) now back to work. I would love to start with a kit to build, but I am just not a navy sub guy. I have always wanted to build a research type sub, something with lots of lights and cameras, maybe an articulating arm. Narrowing down the design, glueing layers of foam together to start the shaping for fiberglass process. I like the design of the from yaw axis thruster the subs from the Abyss use. Given there were functional rc models for filming, they appear to maneuver very well. Just not clear how they maintained pitch and roll control with no visible dive planes. Pivoting side thrusters make sense for pitch and roll. I guess differential thrust could also control yaw too.

As those things move through the water slowly, they will maintain their static stability about the roll and pitch axis.

You'll need thrusters for vertical, lateral, and yaw control. I believe the Abyss miniatures were shot dry-for-wet, were motion-controlled, and were manipulated through a multi-axis stepper-motor driven support arm.

[Scrappy]

“I believe the Abyss miniatures were shot dry-for-wet, were motion-controlled, and were manipulated through a multi-axis stepper-motor driven support arm.”

Cab 3 was filmed dry for wet, Cab 1 was shot wet as an actual fully functional RC model for the underwater fight scene. Divers used waterproof controllers to control the subs so they could get the scenes just right. Adam Savage from Mythbusters did an interview with the museum where it is kept. It is an amazing model with over 100 pounds of batteries for the RC system and halogen lights.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

“I believe the Abyss miniatures were shot dry-for-wet, were motion-controlled, and were manipulated through a multi-axis stepper-motor driven support arm.”

Cab 3 was filmed dry for wet, Cab 1 was shot wet as an actual fully functional RC model for the underwater fight scene. Divers used waterproof controllers to control the subs so they could get the scenes just right. Adam Savage from Mythbusters did an interview with the museum where it is kept. It is an amazing model with over 100 pounds of batteries for the RC system and halogen lights.

Thanks for the clarification. Much appreciated.

David

[Scrappy]

Scale is the next question, I am going for broke and making this thing big. (This is my midlife crisis after all) my graph paper math is working out to about 40” long, 22” wide and 28” tall (including the skids). I am doing biaxial fiberglass cloth over foam. So I can remove foam as needed to keep it slightly positive when in water. Sealed lead acid batteries seam to be the popular choice. Dry box method looks like it would work better for this style of submersible, unless I stack WTC’s like the Alvin model online did. I found a few different acrylic domes for the front that would work with this scale. Two pitch thrusters, one yaw, drive prop with rudder and elevator. What am I missing?

[Subculture]

I'd look carefully at the venues you have available for sailing, as a draft of 28" will limit your ability to dive in shallower ponds. Also bear in mind the weight of this thing when full of water, as it's likely to have a low freeboard. I would seriously advise making it smaller, as the boat is chunky and can support a smaller footprint.

So best to build the hull first then come back for advice on the fitting out.