British X-Craft Build

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  • redboat219
    Admiral
    • Dec 2008
    • 2735

    #16
    Originally posted by rwtdiver
    I have the hull sections on the X-Craft all glued up, including the side charges.

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    The stern section will be attached later after all the control surface linkages and the propeller shaft has been installed. Leaving it off at this point will allow better access to the linkage installations.

    Rob
    "Firemen can stand the heat."
    Going with a radial hull separation instead of the traditional longitudinal L, U, or Z cut? Click image for larger version

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    Last edited by redboat219; 02-25-2023, 03:31 AM.
    Make it simple, make strong, make it work!

    Comment

    • rwtdiver
      Vice Admiral
      • Feb 2019
      • 1769

      #17
      After putting the hull sections together except for the stern section, I noticed one slight fixable problem!

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      I just need to sand the upper hull section to bring it all into alinement. That will be my project for today!

      Rob
      "Firemen can stand the heat."



      Last edited by rwtdiver; 02-25-2023, 06:04 PM.

      Comment

      • george
        Captain
        • Dec 2010
        • 727

        #18
        Fantastic work! Thank you for sharing your build.

        Comment

        • rwtdiver
          Vice Admiral
          • Feb 2019
          • 1769

          #19
          Originally posted by george
          Fantastic work! Thank you for sharing your build.
          Thank you! Can't take all the credit here! A good 3D printer and the STL files I got from Nautilus Drydocks is making for a good build.

          Rob
          "Firemen can stand the heat."

          Comment

          • rwtdiver
            Vice Admiral
            • Feb 2019
            • 1769

            #20
            NOTE: The following is MY SOLUTION to a (might be or may not be) POSSIBLE problem!

            Today I started the stern section control surfaces installation. To start with if you look at where the shafts go through the stern to connect up the control surfaces, you will see that there is not a lot of solid structure to run a shaft through.

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            To help reinforce the shaft structure I have installed a 1/8" solid brass rod and CA'd it to the structure itself to help give strength to the structure point.

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            In order to make the control surfaces operatable I installed a 5/32 brass tube inside the control surfaces and CA'd them to the brass tube. This allowed the control surfaces and the brass tube to slide over the 1/8" solid brass rod which will allow the movement required for the control surface operation.

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            This fairly simple fix will give more beef to the stern structure and also offer good movement to the rudder and the stern dive plane.

            Rob
            "Firemen can stand the heat."

            Comment

            • george
              Captain
              • Dec 2010
              • 727

              #21
              Hi, so by using the 5/32" like a bushing for the 1/8" brass shaft for the control surfaces, Yes?

              Comment

              • rwtdiver
                Vice Admiral
                • Feb 2019
                • 1769

                #22
                Originally posted by george
                Hi, so by using the 5/32" like a bushing for the 1/8" brass shaft for the control surfaces, Yes?
                Yes! The 1/8" brass rod acts as the bushing and the 5/32" brass tube with the rudder and dive plane attached with CA turned on 1/8" brass rod! The brass rod being CA'd into the support column is making it more structural sound. If I would have tried to reverse the build and used the 5/32" brass tube for the bushing the hole would have been to large and the column would have broken off. How do I know!?

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                This was my first stern! While drilling out for the possible use of 5/32" brass tubing for the bushing, the tips broke off!!

                Rob
                "Firemen can stand the heat."

                Comment

                • Scott T
                  Commander
                  • May 2009
                  • 378

                  #23
                  Maybe cut the tube shape length wise and glue brass sheet to it then glue other half of tube to brass. Half tube + brass sheet + half tube = sandwich. (Sub sandwich)

                  Comment

                  • rwtdiver
                    Vice Admiral
                    • Feb 2019
                    • 1769

                    #24
                    Originally posted by Scott T
                    Maybe cut the tube shape length wise and glue brass sheet to it then glue other half of tube to brass. Half tube + brass sheet + half tube = sandwich. (Sub sandwich)
                    Scott,

                    Thank you for your idea! That looks like it would certainly help add support to the shaft post. I already have the system I designed already in place and glued in so I will go with it and we will see what happens. Sometimes I have a tendency to go a little overboard and it may not be necessary.

                    Rob
                    "Firemen can stand the heat."

                    Comment

                    • RCSubGuy
                      Welcome to my underwater realm!
                      • Aug 2009
                      • 1768

                      #25
                      Rob et all,


                      Going with 1/8" control surface shafts is pretty typical, but overkill in a lot of cases. That area of the stern is very thin and very prone to breakage due to the printing orientation. A common issue with a lot of 3D models I've put together. Going with a 1/16" control shaft linkage and a 3/32" OD bushing will help keep meat in that mounting point.


                      Bob

                      Comment

                      • rwtdiver
                        Vice Admiral
                        • Feb 2019
                        • 1769

                        #26
                        Originally posted by RCSubGuy
                        Rob et all,


                        Going with 1/8" control surface shafts is pretty typical, but overkill in a lot of cases. That area of the stern is very thin and very prone to breakage due to the printing orientation. A common issue with a lot of 3D models I've put together. Going with a 1/16" control shaft linkage and a 3/32" OD bushing will help keep meat in that mounting point.


                        Bob
                        I already have the 18" brass shafts installed and I reinforced the stems with thin CA to give some added strength if needed!

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                        I have the electronics all laid out to fit into an approximate 9.5" long 2.5" acrylic tube for the WTC. Because of the space available I will be using a 7.4 V 2S 2200 MAH lipo battery pack. Same battery that I use in my 1:77 scale Nautilus, which work's great. The largest prop that will fit between the dive plane shaft and the drive shaft exit is a 33 mm 3 bladed prop.

                        Rob
                        "Firemen can stand the heat"

                        Comment

                        • rwtdiver
                          Vice Admiral
                          • Feb 2019
                          • 1769

                          #27
                          Started on the WTC.

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                          The cylinder has been cut to size, and I have the shaft and the prop installed. I did have to size up the bottom hull section saddles in order to have the prop shaft a straight shot in.

                          Rob
                          "Firemen can stand the heat"

                          Comment

                          • rwtdiver
                            Vice Admiral
                            • Feb 2019
                            • 1769

                            #28
                            For those that might be considering this build, I have a suggestion.

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                            Do not use this design for the stern dive plane! (This part came with the 3D print files) To mechanical and not necessary!

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                            A Straight shot to the dive plane is more positive and cleaner! I fabricated the part using TinkerCad.Just a suggestion!

                            Rob
                            "Firemen can stand the heat."

                            Comment

                            • DrSchmidt
                              Captain
                              • Apr 2014
                              • 919

                              #29
                              Perhaps too technical, but that was how it was done on the original boat. When you want the original look, then it's the one with the exterior lever and two push rods.

                              Comment

                              • rwtdiver
                                Vice Admiral
                                • Feb 2019
                                • 1769

                                #30
                                Originally posted by DrSchmidt
                                Perhaps too technical, but that was how it was done on the original boat. When you want the original look, then it's the one with the exterior lever and two push rods.
                                Andreas,

                                Not to be disrespectful of you, Daivid Merriman lll, Bob Martin, and others that I put into the category of perfectionitis, and I do hold you all in very high regard! But I do not fit into that group, nor do I want to. All my boats are 3D printed (total 24) except for 2 which are kits that I purchased from Bob Martin (Nautilus Drydocks) All my boats have WTC's, some work & some don't! I got into this hobby not for the realism, but for the joy of building and experimentation.

                                I just want to build the British X-Craft and for the joy of building it and maybe pass on some other ideas and methods of building it. If it looks reasonably close to scale, then I will be happy!

                                My last comment on this subject is, I do have health issues which dictate what I can do and can't do, and I just want to leave it at that!

                                Andreas, Thank you for chiming in and offering your respected advice as always!

                                Rob
                                "Firemen can stand the heat."
                                Last edited by rwtdiver; 03-13-2023, 03:53 AM.

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