British X-Craft Build

[rwtdiver]

Closing my build!

[redboat219]

Are the side charges printable as separate pieces or integrated with the hull? Would be nice if they were separate as you can model the boat with or without them. Also a good way of covering the longitudinal seam.

[redboat219]

I am building this model to set for RC operation

Surface runner or dive capable?

[RCSubGuy]

If it were me, I'd make it a dynamic diver. These boats had virtually no freeboard anyway. It would make an awesome, simple and fun pool sub. I'm betting maneuverability will be excellent.

[redboat219]

I have the 1/35 scale kit from Merit similar to this (screen grab from Youtube)

Will cut the hull similar to Rob's boat.

[Bob Gato]

Great subject lots of character!... Thank God for blue tape.

[redboat219]

Any plans for deployable side charges ? ;- D

[redboat219]

Permanently attached or removable (with magnets)?

[redboat219]

I have the hull sections on the X-Craft all glued up, including the side charges.





The stern section will be attached later after all the control surface linkages and the propeller shaft has been installed. Leaving it off at this point will allow better access to the linkage installations.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

Going with a radial hull separation instead of the traditional longitudinal L, U, or Z cut?

[george]

Fantastic work! Thank you for sharing your build.

[george]

Hi, so by using the 5/32" like a bushing for the 1/8" brass shaft for the control surfaces, Yes?

[Scott T]

Maybe cut the tube shape length wise and glue brass sheet to it then glue other half of tube to brass. Half tube + brass sheet + half tube = sandwich. (Sub sandwich)

[RCSubGuy]

Rob et all,


Going with 1/8" control surface shafts is pretty typical, but overkill in a lot of cases. That area of the stern is very thin and very prone to breakage due to the printing orientation. A common issue with a lot of 3D models I've put together. Going with a 1/16" control shaft linkage and a 3/32" OD bushing will help keep meat in that mounting point.


Bob

[DrSchmidt]

Perhaps too technical, but that was how it was done on the original boat. When you want the original look, then it's the one with the exterior lever and two push rods.

[DrSchmidt]

Andreas,

Not to be respectful of you, Daivid Merriman lll, Bob Martin, and others that I put into the category of perfectionitis, and I do hold you all in very high regard! But I do not fit into that group, nor do I want to. All my boats are 3D printed (total 24) except for 2 which are kits that I purchased from Bob Martin (Nautilus Drydocks) All my boats have WTC's, some work & some don't! I got into this hobby not for the realism, but for the joy of building and experimentation.

I just want to build the British X-Craft and for the joy of building it and maybe pass on some other ideas and methods of building it. If it looks reasonably close to scale, then I will be happy!

My last comment on this subject is, I do have health issues which dictate what I can do and can't do, and I just want to leave it at that!

Andreas, Thank you for chiming in and offering your respected advice as always!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat."

Yo do it like you want it. I have no issues with that and my comment was not meant disrespectful. I just wanted to point out that the designer of the files was not "over technical" in his approach but went for the original look. And back in the days, rotary feedthroughs were easier to seal and safer than linear ones. That's why the X-Craft and many other boats had theses lever/push rod designs .