Airbrushing, new to me, looking for help advice

[Ken_NJ]

Any suggestions are helpful! Thanks. Will try that next go at it.

[redboat219]

[Ken_NJ]

Thumbs up to Adam's video's.

I now want to get into practicing the below waterline weathering. Remember I'm awful at colors. That is why I like rattle cans, the color exists as is with no mixing. This is what I'm thinking looking at David's tutorial. The first coat from the WL down is a medium green? The second coat from the WL down, but not as far down as the first coat. This would give me layers. And the second coat would be a brighter green than the first coat. Then the scum line at the WL is white with maybe a tint of green? Looking at the color wheel. I need to mix green and blue to get green. But how do I get a brighter green? Am I looking at this all wrong or not? I can build a boat, work with electronics and use rattle cans but this is where I am really really weak. Help, help help.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thumbs up to Adam's video's.

I now want to get into practicing the below waterline weathering. Remember I'm awful at colors. That is why I like rattle cans, the color exists as is with no mixing. This is what I'm thinking looking at David's tutorial. The first coat from the WL down is a medium green? The second coat from the WL down, but not as far down as the first coat. This would give me layers. And the second coat would be a brighter green than the first coat. Then the scum line at the WL is white with maybe a tint of green? Looking at the color wheel. I need to mix green and blue to get green. But how do I get a brighter green? Am I looking at this all wrong or not? I can build a boat, work with electronics and use rattle cans but this is where I am really really weak. Help, help help.

Yellow brightens Green.

Between each layer lay down dabs of tooth-paste mask. After the last layer scrub the work with a wet cloth to remove the masking -- wonders will be revealed!




David

[Ken_NJ]

I was looking at Steve's thread about his Thresher. Lots of good info there.

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/builder-threads/151983-3d-printed-1-48-thresher/page8#post155199

[Ken_NJ]

Between Steve's Thresher and David's weathering thread, Carol helped me, and we are seeing either tan or green colors for BWL hull fouling. What would be an appropriate color to use?

Also, the surface scum line has been looking like a smudged oil crayon, white or green, this about right?

AND, due to sunlight reaching below the scum line to short distance below the WL, a bright algae green section right?

Have toothpaste, brushes and sponges at the ready. Just have to get these details about colors.

Ken
The I want to do this right guy

[Ken_NJ]

Practicing for the sonar dome, on paper. This is an easy one. When I do it on the model just have to be sure the screen is flat on the hull.

[Ken_NJ]

Came out great. Was able to work the screen flat against the hull. Now I think I should give it a light over spray of the light gray to tone the defined lines down a bit? Yes or no?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Came out great. Was able to work the screen flat against the hull. Now I think I should give it a light over spray of the light gray to tone the defined lines down a bit? Yes or no?

NICE! Well done, Ken. Oh, yeah!... tone that sucker down till you can barely see the grid-pattern.

You are a quick study, pal.



David

[Ken_NJ]

David, on the fairwater planes, looks like you apply the non-skid surface, then the oil can shading. The oil can shading is applied to the center of the masked off area's just like the dive planes and rudder. You have a finished picture of the fariwaters? I'm trying to figure out what the oil can shading looks like on the non-skid surface.

And I'm guessing the non-skid and oil can shading are both given a final overspray of the base color?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, on the fairwater planes, looks like you apply the non-skid surface, then the oil can shading. The oil can shading is applied to the center of the masked off area's just like the dive planes and rudder. You have a finished picture of the fariwaters? I'm trying to figure out what the oil can shading looks like on the non-skid surface.

Best I've got. But no oil-canning on these surfaces. (Must have been an 'off' day).

[Ken_NJ]

Was not sure what to do there, that is why I asked. So I will only do the underside.

If anyone wants to know my technique for spraying the sonar dome, here is what I did. I tried using drafting tools to try to get tape cut to mask around the dome. To tedious and troublesome. I applied tape to a section and with my finger pressed the tape where the indent is. That allowed me to see where I could run a pencil in the indent. I removed the tape and cut on the line then placed the tape back in place. Exact match.







I then cut screen down close to a good shape and used small pieces of duct tape to hold it in place. The screen would bubble here and there. I would remove the duct tape pieces and move the screen around until eventually the screen was flat to the surface of the hull. The spray away with the lighter top color.

[Ken_NJ]

What I am working on now.

I do not have nifty dividers like David has. So I traced the dive planes onto paper and looked at his pictures and drew lines where mask tape would be. I measured at certain points and divided by the right number to get the distance between the lines. In certain instances I could not get and even number so I tilted the ruler on the outside lines of the dive planes to get a evenly divisible number. That make sense?



Here is how that worked out.



Also painted the non skid area on the fairwater planes.



And I have the lower sonar dome ready for the lighter top coat.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Great job, Ken.

[trout]

Way to go Ken!