Russian Alfa Class

[neitosub]

Hi Rob,

In that case just make sure that the solder joint between the ESC and the motor wires is sealed against the motor wire insulation. When in doubt, a quick dip inside the pool should reveal any potential leaks.

Nate

[rwtdiver]

AAAAHHHHHHhhhh! I'm late to the game here, but just saw this.

REVERSE COURSE! All back full!

Those wires are NOT sealed on the wet side (we learned this the hard way). They're basically tubes that have wire strands in them. If you use this method, you'll have three beautiful passages for water to gleefully flow down and into your cylinder.

So... Re-solder the bullet connectors onto the motor, then install female bullet connectors (3.5mm) in the endcap. These are easy to seal against the endcap.



Bob

Bob, Steve, and Nate!

My plan was not to use bullet connectors at all and just solder the ESC wires directly to the motor wires inside the dry side and use heat shrink to seal up the solder joint!? Then seal up the three holes inside and out with silicone sealant!? Would that be a good method?

None of my boats really hit the water that much, maybe one or two times a year at the most!

Thank you guys for the help and input!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[neitosub]

I used Nates suggestion on installing the brushless motor wiring!



I drilled three 1/8" holes through the end cap and ran one of the power wires through each hole. Now all that is left is to seal each of the wires to prevent leaking.

So far this brushless motor mounting system is going very well! Thanks again for the advice Nate!! :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

To add on what Bob and Steve have said, you can also re-solder on the male bullet connectors but add a seal between the exposed wire strands and the motor wire insulation. This seal can be thick CA glue or liquid electrical tape.

Nate

[SubDude]

In addition to what Bob said, most female bullet connectors have a small hole in the side of them. I also solder up that hole and then use a drill bit to make sure there is no solder inside the socket that could prevent the male connector from seating all the way. I then use a small amount of thin CA to secure the female connector flush with the face of the outside surface of the bulkhead or box. I also put heat shrink on the male connector and wire to seal the solder connection and protect the part of the male connector that would be exposed to water. Other methods of sealing the hole might work as well but that is how I do all of my bulkhead or water tight box perforations. Been operating for several seasons now without leaks or electrical failures and they are very easy to unplug and plug back in if needed as in my case I run so much in the wet and can easily swap a water tight box from one boat to another as a result.

[RCSubGuy]

AAAAHHHHHHhhhh! I'm late to the game here, but just saw this.

REVERSE COURSE! All back full!

Those wires are NOT sealed on the wet side (we learned this the hard way). They're basically tubes that have wire strands in them. If you use this method, you'll have three beautiful passages for water to gleefully flow down and into your cylinder.

So... Re-solder the bullet connectors onto the motor, then install female bullet connectors (3.5mm) in the endcap. These are easy to seal against the endcap.



Bob

[rwtdiver]

I used Nates suggestion on installing the brushless motor wiring!



I drilled three 1/8" holes through the end cap and ran one of the power wires through each hole. Now all that is left is to seal each of the wires to prevent leaking.

So far this brushless motor mounting system is going very well! Thanks again for the advice Nate!! :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Hi Rob,

On my WTC I snipped off the bullet connectors on the motor wires and passed the wires through holes in the endcap that were the same diameter as the wires. I then re-soldered the connectors back onto the wires on the other side (dry side) of the endcap. I plan on either simply sealing the wire with a dab of superglue, or some silicone. Either way works, although the silicone method would be removable and probably allow you to pull the wires back out in case you want to remove or replace the motor down the road.

Hope this helps,

Nate

Thanks Nate!

I really like that idea! And buy making three smaller holes that will just let each wire through will make it easier to seal rather than one large hole that all three go through which would make sealing a lot harder! Makes good since!

Thanks again for the great advice!

Rob
"firemen can stand the heat"

[neitosub]

Hi Rob,

On my WTC I snipped off the bullet connectors on the motor wires and passed the wires through holes in the endcap that were the same diameter as the wires. I then re-soldered the connectors back onto the wires on the other side (dry side) of the endcap. I plan on either simply sealing the wire with a dab of superglue, or some silicone. Either way works, although the silicone method would be removable and probably allow you to pull the wires back out in case you want to remove or replace the motor down the road.

Hope this helps,

Nate

[rwtdiver]

Another question about the wires that need to penetrate the end cap into the WTC!?



Do you bore a hole just big enough to get the 3 wires through the end cap and then fill it full of silicone? Or is there a possible better way?

Thanks for the help and advice!

Rob
Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

I like the idea of the alignment pins. Are the holes already cut out via the program for the printer?

Sorry Casey! I miss understood your question.

The alignment holes are part of the print files. They are in both the top sections and the bottoms. I did enlarge the holes so that I could use 1/8" brass rods for the pins. The files had them matched up almost perfect!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the fire"

[rwtdiver]

I like the idea of the alignment pins. Are the holes already cut out via the program for the printer?

The motor mount is just stuck to the end cap with two sided tape. I put a dab of black paint on the end of the propeller shaft which left a mark on the end cap as to where the mount will be installed. nothing has been installed yet!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[Das Boot]

I like the idea of the alignment pins. Are the holes already cut out via the program for the printer?

[rwtdiver]

I finished up the WTC alignment saddles, which now keeps the WTC in straight alignment and secure to the bottom of the hull!





I also lined up the mounting bracket for the brushless motor. The motor shaft is going to be a straight right on with the propeller shaft!

I am really starting to like the idea of brushless motors for the propeller drive power systems! Geez, I may just go back into the other 18 boats I have and change over to brushless!! "Just Kidding" :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

I would thread them in without penetrating the endcap if they have some length to them.

Thank you Steve!

I was really hoping that would be the best method! Certainly will eliminate another possible leak source. I understand what you are saying about a good length and probably a strong deep thread.

Thanks again for your advice!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[Das Boot]

Keep rocking on, Rob.