Russian Alfa Class

[rwtdiver]

Hi Rob,

Yes, you can wire the motor to the ESC as per your picture. If you notice the motor rotating in the wrong direction when going forward, simply swap any of the two wires and reconnect them to the ESC. I usually keep the center motor wire connected to the B wire on the ESC and swap around the other two.

Nate

Thank you very much Nate,

I really appreciate all your advice and help on my Alfa sub project.



Prior to building submarines my passion was scratch building and flying quad, and tri-copters. Running brushless motors and the ESC's on submarines seems to be the same, except for the environment.that we operate them in. So for me a little refresher course and help does give me a little re-assurance that I have not forgotten everything.

Thank you Nate, and others, for stepping up with advice and help!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[neitosub]

Hi Rob,

Yes, you can wire the motor to the ESC as per your picture. If you notice the motor rotating in the wrong direction when going forward, simply swap any of the two wires and reconnect them to the ESC. I usually keep the center motor wire connected to the B wire on the ESC and swap around the other two.

Nate

[rwtdiver]

OK! The motor end wiring is done!



I do have a question about the ESC wiring to the motor!?



There are three wires coming from the ESC. They are marked A,B, and C and all black! The motor has three wires and they are Red, Black, and Yellow as per photo. Can I use the line up (hook up) as per the photo?

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

OK! I changed my mind, and I am now going with a better design for the motor link ups!



I am using the motor wires and made loop and soldered them to form the connections. The copper studs were just to big and bulky!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Thanks Bob!

Great idea, but as usual I did not have a tap that small. So, I drilled the hole for the brass screw slightly smaller and used the screw itself to make the threads. They screwed in great and formed a nice tight fit, I then backed them out and applied the medium CA to about center and screwed them back in followed by thin CA. It seems to be a good solid fit!



I am manufacturing my own copper studs, and again it's because I did not have the right size for the job. I still have some shaping work to do on them before I solder on the wires from the motor on the wet side and the ESC on the dry side. Time consuming for sure, but it is fun to learn new ways of doing things!

Thanks again for your help Bob!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[RCSubGuy]

I'm sure David will chime in, but typically one would drill and tap the endcap and thread the stud into it. Wick some thin CA at the base and it will shoot down into the endcap and create your seal. You can also put a drop of thicker CA on the threads before you get to the desired depth, and then screw it into the endcap until the CA drop is well into the endcap material.

[rwtdiver]

Thanks David!



I am back to square one! I am taking your advice and your design!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYKEV9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will be using the brass 4-40 studs to tie the power wires through the end cap to the motor! Thank you for your help on this!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

David,

Ounce you have the stud or screw through the cap. How are to sealing them so that they won't leak? I could not tell if you are using rubber O-rings or not!

Thank you for your help and advice!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

Yes, a much better idea. The bullet connectors would, I think, be an easier solution, but the studs work well, too.

Bob,

This submarine building hobby sure is a REAL challenge! Just about the time you think your about to break through it knocks you down again! Working in the water environment just involves a whole new set of rules and building challenges!

Thanks for all your help and advice Bob! Give Jason my best! "Onward and forward is the line for today"

Romel,

Thanks for the photo!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[redboat219]

Cable lugs.

[RCSubGuy]

Yes, a much better idea. The bullet connectors would, I think, be an easier solution, but the studs work well, too.

[rwtdiver]

It's a bad idea.

Water is tenacious and will work its way through the wires.

Install three pass-through brass studs (4-40 works for me) into the motor-bulkhead. Those are your conductors from the motor outside to the ESC inside.



David

Thanks David!



I am back to square one! I am taking your advice and your design!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYKEV9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will be using the brass 4-40 studs to tie the power wires through the end cap to the motor! Thank you for your help on this!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[rwtdiver]

And here is where I say is sealing up 3 wires easier and cheaper than one cup seal on the driveshaft?

Hi Bob,

I totally understand what you are saying, but doing a complete redesign of the already existing WTC trays, plus install the motor to a secure hold down, this brushless motor makes good sense, because if you look at the motor alignment to the propeller shaft in my photos you will see a straight in shot to the shaft. This is an existing dual motor WTC that I am modifying to a single motor design for my ALFA boat.

Also, if you have followed any of my other build blogs, you will see I like to do a lot of extermination in my building! That's part of the enjoyment that I get from this hobby.

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Nate, and all!

This is what I had in mine.



I do understand if the motor fails or the ESC that I would need to cut the wires and resolder again! After looking at the motor wiring I can see where the water might come from the motor wiring through the insulation and into the WTC! I am not as experienced as you guys by any means, so if you really feel this is a bad idea please tell me!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

It's a bad idea.

Water is tenacious and will work its way through the wires.

Install three pass-through brass studs (4-40 works for me) into the motor-bulkhead. Those are your conductors from the motor outside to the ESC inside.



David

[rwtdiver]

Hi Rob,

In that case just make sure that the solder joint between the ESC and the motor wires is sealed against the motor wire insulation. When in doubt, a quick dip inside the pool should reveal any potential leaks.

Nate

Nate, and all!

This is what I had in mine.



I do understand if the motor fails or the ESC that I would need to cut the wires and resolder again! After looking at the motor wiring I can see where the water might come from the motor wiring through the insulation and into the WTC! I am not as experienced as you guys by any means, so if you really feel this is a bad idea please tell me!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[type7]

And here is where I say is sealing up 3 wires easier and cheaper than one cup seal on the driveshaft?