As secretive as the Rooskies are, they don’t mind you seeing their subs. Especially the power plant and propeller.
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Russian Alfa Class
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Originally posted by Das Boot View PostAs secretive as the Rooskies are, they don’t mind you seeing their subs. Especially the power plant and propeller.Who is John Galt?
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I think I’m going to buy this. Not. I’ve seen this POS before.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11516146399...EAAOSwLSdhpBOw“Of the 40,000 men who served on German submarines, 30,000 never returned.”
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Originally posted by Das Boot View PostI think I’m going to buy this. Not. I’ve seen this POS before.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/11516146399...EAAOSwLSdhpBOwWho is John Galt?
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Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
I got a bridge you can buy...Last edited by James Wittaker; 02-06-2022, 06:29 AM.
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Originally posted by rwtdiver View PostNormally I would not show off my screw ups! But sometimes lessons learned the hard way should be shared so others do not make the same costly mistakes.
Here is what happened! After hours of prep work installing the bushings in my 3D printed Alfa stern, and then manufacturing the linkage horns on rudders (2) and the dive planes (2) and installing them for the final hook up. I used a very common approach to installing the control surfaces to the linkage rods. Boring a small hole in the control surface and then using thin CA to secure the control surfaces to the linkage shaft.
laying the control surface flat and then putting in one drop of thin CA into the prepared hole. I used a kicker to speed up the process, and thinking the CA had cured, which it did on the surface I pick up the project and went to a vertical position to make sure I had movement! Guess what happened!? Even though the CA had cured at the hole I still had liquid CA on the inside of the shaft that immediately ran down the shaft and into the bushing. Stupid mistake on my part! Well needless to say the control shafts where now glued to the bushings.
Lesson Here: Do not move the control surfaces until you are sure that the CA HAS CURED>
I now have to re-print a new stern section and four control surfaces and start this portion of my build all over again. I hope my lesson will help someone that is using this process on their build.
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
And I am still trying to get a 1:96 Alfa stern section to come together! Talk about an inferiority complex! WOW! I can't even get a set of rudders or dive planes operational! There just is not enough time in life left to do what you masters do!!
"I WILL CARRY ON"
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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Originally posted by rwtdiver View Post
Ramel,
That is certainly a viable solution to the problem, and I thank you for that.
I just remembered a note from the not distant past from our MASTER David M. The use of Vaseline on the shaft ends and inside the brass bushing. I guess it's my time in life to start using a legal pad and writing this stuff down, it sure would have saved me a time costly situation here.
Third time has to be the charm!! We move on and never give up in this hobby till we get it and get it right!!
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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Rob (et all),
Since the part is pooched anyway if it doesn't succeed, something you can try is to heat up the linkage shaft to cook off the CA inside. Now, if you don't have a convenient chunk of shaft free to get the tip of a flame on, this can be problematic. I've tried with some success at various points in my career, to use the tip of a soldering iron on the end of the shaft. PLA will soften up a lot faster than the resin parts that I historically tried this on, so no guarantees, but as I said.... the parts are trash anyway. No harm in trying next time!
Bob
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Originally posted by SubHuman View PostRob (et all),
Since the part is pooched anyway if it doesn't succeed, something you can try is to heat up the linkage shaft to cook off the CA inside. Now, if you don't have a convenient chunk of shaft free to get the tip of a flame on, this can be problematic. I've tried with some success at various points in my career, to use the tip of a soldering iron on the end of the shaft. PLA will soften up a lot faster than the resin parts that I historically tried this on, so no guarantees, but as I said.... the parts are trash anyway. No harm in trying next time!
Bob
AND DAVID! Your work is ALWAYS WELCOME SIR!!!! And stop calling me Ron!! You're giving me a complex!! :-))
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
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Originally posted by rwtdiver View Post
Some good ideas here! Thanks Bob and to every else that has chammied in. That's the great thing about 3D Printing in my case, you screw up (which is a process for me) you just download the part to the printer, move on to doing something else while the machine dose the work. and in a few hours, you have another new part to sacrifice (if need be)
AND DAVID! Your work is ALWAYS WELCOME SIR!!!! And stop calling me Ron!! You're giving me a complex!! :-))
Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"
(The brain is the second thing to go)
DavidWho is John Galt?
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