3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

[coryhenry]

You could also print in ABS or ASA both have high heat resistance.

[substandard]

You could also print in ABS or ASA both have high heat resistance.

Not crazy about printing stinky filaments.

[SteveNeill]

It's a lot of fun watching you guys do this. Keep having fun!

[SubDude]

Shoot...one hull section for the 1/72 LA takes 60hrs for me to print. I have lost 1-1/2 parts and just started my 3rd spool. Still trying to get Hull4 to turn out. I will be painting it inside and out with a good quality high fill automotive polyurethane primer as an experiment.

[a1965l]

It's a big boat.... just for scale, that's a 1/48 type IX hull in the picture with it...

[a1965l]

Working on my 3D printed Type Vll C this AM! I am about 1/2 way through the printing process at this point with approximately 60 hours total so far.





The hull portion of the project is moving a little bit slower because of materials! I use only Solutech PLA, and there inventory has been depleted because of the COVID-19!
Must be with everyone home bound there is a lot of 3D printers at work!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

That's impressive, printing the wintergarden on a filament printer... very nicely done. I may have to try my skills at modeling one....

[frozenottsel]

Hello everyone,

I'm finally getting around to working on the electronics and the WTC assembly and I've got a couple question on how I should be setting everything up; mainly in relation to where the AD2 is being connected and where and how my battery is being connected to the system.

As far as I understand the stern plane servo connects into the AD2, and the AD2 acts as an autonomous controller for the pitch, but I'm not sure where on the reciever that the AD2 will plug into; does it get it's own channel or does it share with the bow plane servo (channel 2 in the picture)?

Second question is how I'm setting up my battery. My initial assumption, as shown on the diagram, is that the battery goes into the BEC and then the BEC leads into the BLM. The BLM then connects to my ballast channel (channel 6 on the diagram) between the receiver and the linear actuator. If this is true, then that would mean that I can ignore the B channel (I assume B for battery) on the receiver, right? Also, my speed controller comes with it's own battery input connectors and an on-board BEC, would I need to do anything with the speed controller to prevent interferences or anything?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions or advice :D

[frozenottsel]

Stern plane servo lead to AD2; AD2 input lead to receiver port ch-6 (the one with the rotary knob on the transmitter).

Battery to BEC power wires; BEC 5-volt output to any unused receiver port or port marked, 'battery'.

Receiver port ch-4 to BLM's three-wire servo lead; BLM output to ballast servo and LPB through a Y-lead.

Okay, I think I've got it, I'm redrawing the block diagram right now.

If you don't mind me asking, what does LPB stand for?

[substandard]

wondering are you guys pausing your long prints overnight and resuming the next day or letting them print straight through?

[SubDude]

wondering are you guys pausing your long prints overnight and resuming the next day or letting them print straight through?

Straight through. I have had prints that took over 90 hours for a part.

[SubDude]

The current 1/72 LA boat I am printing. 5-1/2" beam and 60" long.

[substandard]

Straight through. I have had prints that took over 90 hours for a part.

Wondering what's your secret for excellent adhesion to the bed for that long? If a 90 hour print came loose early I'd be pretty ticked off at the printer.

[SubDude]

Wondering what's your secret for excellent adhesion to the bed for that long? If a 90 hour print came loose early I'd be pretty ticked off at the printer.

Prints fail for many reasons. Yeah it is a bummer if it happens late so we try to minimize the possibilities of it happening. So far the only adhesion issues I have experienced have been with ABS. My machine is an Ender 3 Pro with the magnetic build surface. PLA, PLA+ and PETG stick well to it. If a part is tall and has a narrow base I will include a raft or skirt to increase the build plate surface area but all-in-all its just time and plastic.

[Sinksalot]

Ok alot of people been always telling me that ASA filament is great for outdoor in the sun. So I printed out a piece of hull from the XXI sub. I put the Hull part on a piece of wood in the middle of the yard where it will be hit by the sun all day . Its was 92F on Saturday and sunny. I haven't seen anything happen to it yet, but I only had it out for 5 hours in direct sunlight. we see what happens on Sunday at the end of the day.

[CC Clarke]

A PLA hull can turn into a banana in as little as 20 min in direct sunlight. (Been there, done that.) ASA is a much better choice. ABS is great, but a PITA to print with for a lot of reasons - taking shrinkage into account for geometric tolerancing being but one.

For long print, bulletproof bed adhesion, I use a raft on Buildtak, and clean it with IPA as soon as I remove a part. Geckomat is an excellent (and much cheaper alternative @ $5 a sheet versus $25.)

I've got access to a Raise3DPro Plus (nearly 2' Z axis build height!) https://www.raise3d.com/pro2-plus/ but am waiting for Raise3D to get their collective #$%! together with the new, independent dual-extruder E2 before buying one for personal use. Being able to print two parts at once makes volume production very attractive.

CCC