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3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

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  • That worked out great Rob!

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    • After a few hours of filling and sanding I just about have the hull good enough to apply primer.

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      I got the lower and upper hulls to come together and a fairly close and straight seam all the way down. a few more hours work on the sail, some miner filler work, and a little more sanding and the Albacore will be ready for primer. Next will come the pool test and ballast set up and trim out.

      Rob

      "Firemen can stand the heat"

      Attached Files

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      • Rob,
        You are knocking out quickly. That is not a bad thing because it looks to me you are doing it right.
        Excellent work and thank you for documenting it. It helps new and old time sub hobbyist!
        Peace,
        Tom
        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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        • Tighten up those longitudinal seam!

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          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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          • Thank you Tom! The hull was really put together badly, and it has taken a lot of effort to get it to where it is now! But the master wants more!:-)) Reminds me of my DI in boot camp! hours of bunk making over and over, but finally got that quarter to bounce up and flip over! Then there was my Lieutenant on truck and laying new 6" lines in the bed, time after time to finally get the 8" hangout on the coupler! We all love you David!!

            David, are you using Bondo Glazing Spot Putty to fill those seams in?

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            Thanks for your input David! I would assume I would need to run a piece of sand paper down the seam to rough it up a little for the bondo to adhere better!?

            Rob

            "Firemen can stand the heat"

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            • David,

              Might be the tape trick would work better? Run tape down the bottom hull seam line only, then fill the top seam with putty flush to the tape!

              Thanks David for all your help!

              Rob

              "Firemen can stand the heat"

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              • Tough love is the real love. The military of our time was the perfect father-mother for know-it-all, ass-hole, know-nothing kids such as myself... and I suspect, you. No 'safe rooms' and 'stress cards' for us. And we are better for it.

                The wise old farmer loved and cared for his donkey, but never hesitated to slap it up side the head with a two-by-four when the animals attention was required.

                Yes, the half of the hull with that awful radius for a corner is roughed up with #100 grit sandpaper. You then wax or Vaseline the 'good' edge of the other hull half so it won't stick. Smear on the Bondo to the 'bad' half hull and before it starts to harden (you'll have to do this in stages as that's a big-ass hull) assemble the hull. The Bondo will quickly get to the 'green' stage where it can be cut and rough sanded, and at this point you run a knife blade down the length to slice off the excess Bondo.

                With the hull halves taped together block sand as a unit.

                Once you've done all the sanding on the Bondo, disassemble the hull and overcoat the Bondo areas with thin formula CA to toughen it up and prevent the rather porous material from absorbing water. Wet sand the work with #400. The CA wicks into the Bondo and better secures the Bondo to the plastic hull.

                Assemble the hull again and screed on the air-dry touch-up putty -- I prefer Nitro-Stan 2001, I love this stuff! -- and before the putty hardens run the tip of a #11 blade along the seam to keep the two hull halves from sticking together.

                https://www.bing.com/shop?q=nitro-stan&FORM=SHOPTB

                You're ready for a final sanding and primer, pal!

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                "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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                • Yep! Works for me! I learned this exact method from David 14 years ago.

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                  • TIGHT!

                    David
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

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                    • Thank you David and Steve for all the great advice, input and visual aspects as to how to sharpen up hull seams! Back to building!

                      Rob

                      "Firemen can stand the heat"

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                      • Update on the 3D Printed LA Class Attack Submarine! I finished up the last piece last night. I am very pleased with the results, and now it's on to the build!

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                        The print files for this Submarfine are sold on Nautilus Drydocks (Bob Martin)

                        I printed my files using Solutech white PLA. I currently have 3 other PLA printed Submarines that have been entruduced into the water, and with the proper priming and painting, I have not had any problems with using standard PLA!

                        Rob

                        "Firemen can stand the heat"

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                        • To wet your apatite here's another 1/96 LA in the water:

                          (starts at 0:35) https://youtu.be/WOVYwwx6VD4

                          David
                          "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post
                            To wet your apatite here's another 1/96 LA in the water:

                            (starts at 0:35) https://youtu.be/WOVYwwx6VD4

                            David
                            David,

                            Thank you for the YouTube! I am really hoping (and with a ton of work) that I can get the 2.5 SD that you gave me (thank you again) to get this Sub underwater!

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                            Rob

                            "Firemen can stand the heat"

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                            • It'll work fine. Plenty of room in that hull for it. And the ballast tank is much bigger than you'll need as the LA's have a very short freeboard.

                              David
                              "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                              Comment


                              • Looking good so far!

                                BTW, I just purchased my first delta printer this morning to replace my exploded Anycubic Chiron. I think it will be much better suited to printing subs with long, thinner hulls. Should be here in a couple of weeks.

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