3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

[RCSubGuy]

Has anyone tried using ASA on a Dremel digilab 3D45 printer with good results?

I dont' think the 3D45 build plate goes up high enough to make for good adhesion and non-warping. I have two. I can try!

Bob

[CC Clarke]

Everyone prints with whatever they prefer. I was only stating that ASA doesn't give off toxic fumes that I have noticed. The heat resistance and how successfully I am printing with ASA is enough for me to not likely be going back to PLA+ anytime soon. It also bridges well and there is little if any stringing. I love the stuff. See you on the Dive Tribe in two weeks...

Noticed or not, the toxicity associated with ABS / ASA / Nylon is well known. It is best used in a ventilated environment. YMMV. Where I work, we cannot print either without a fume extractor to comply with health and safety regulations. At home, obviously you can do anything you want.

CCC

[Monahan Steam Models]

Has anyone tried using ASA on a Dremel digilab 3D45 printer with good results?

[SubDude]

Everyone prints with whatever they prefer. I was only stating that ASA doesn't give off toxic fumes that I have noticed. The heat resistance and how successfully I am printing with ASA is enough for me to not likely be going back to PLA+ anytime soon. It also bridges well and there is little if any stringing. I love the stuff. See you on the Dive Tribe in two weeks...

[rwtdiver]

If the fumes from printing ASA are toxic I sure can't smell any unless I stick my head in the enclosure. It doesn't stink up my basement at all.

Hi Steve,

I just missed another Dive Tribe get together today! I miss read Bob's email! Thought it was 4:00 PM today (2:00 PM Arizona) Next time!!

I am very happy with the white PLA (Solutech) that I use for my subs! What little time they do spend in the water (my swimming pool only) and with the resin I put through out the interior of the boat I have not had any water issues with the 15 to 20 min runs at all. All is well with the PLA for me. Plus my older Dremel does not handle the newer filaments. My Predator is border line with any other than PLA!

If the day comes that I have to replace one of these printers I will for sure look into other possible types of filament.



It's all good! Hope you are staying safe and well Steve! Looking forward to the next Dive Tribe get together. If i learn to get my times together!! :-))

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[SubDude]

If the fumes from printing ASA are toxic I sure can't smell any unless I stick my head in the enclosure. It doesn't stink up my basement at all.

[rwtdiver]

(Copied my unapproved post to reply Rob)

Rob,

The XTC-3D coating is only meant to cover any imperfections in the print, and as such, is not a substitute for painting. Once the epoxy cures, it can be minimally scuffed with sandpaper to allow maximum adhesion of any acrylic paint to obtain the desired finish.

3D printers (and filament) are not created equal. Depending on configuration and settings, (nozzle bore, software, etc.) some printers produce layer print lines that require more (or less) time-consuming, mind-numbing sanding to obtain a smooth finish. This product, (which may be applied in layers) cuts down on the tedium allowing you to go from print to paint with a lot less time and effort.

As stated before, other methods of smoothing, such as acetone vapor deposition, are not suitable for PLA (which many people use). This has a two-fold use for PLA, it seals the surface. Being a bio-degradable, plant-based plastic, PLA is susceptible to water, (though you would have to immerse it for a looong time) and this product deals with that. The biggest enemy of PLA is direct sun; it deforms with very little coaxing in just a few minutes. A heat-absorbing black hull doesn't help.

Though more expensive and harder to print, (it needs a printer enclosure to maintain a higher ambient temperature for best results) ASA, followed by ABS is the optimum filament for RC submarines. The drawback to either filament is the toxic fumes they produce. There are a number of work-arounds for this; enhanced HEPA filtering, and ducts to direct the fumes elsewhere. For the majority of people printing, PLA is fine. It's cheap, non-toxic, and can be used on a less-expensive printer.

CCC

CC,

Thank you for the great information! Very informative. Based on the above, it's sound as if a coating of the XTC-3D coating would enhance the ability of the PLA to be less susceptible to water intrusion!

I most likely will try the XTC-3D and do some testing with my next 3D printed PLA sub build! I really do not want to work with any of the toxic fumes involved with the some of the filaments out there. My building space is in the interior of my home, and not a good place for toxic fumes!

Thank you very much for the all the great information!

Rob
"Firemen can stand the heat"

[CC Clarke]

CCC,

Thanks for posting the great information! Always looking for new products and better ways of finishing our 3D printed parts! I am assuming you could use a matt or flat clear coat to cut down the sheen if you did not want that high gloss finish left behind using the XTC-3D product?

Rob
Firemen can stand the heat"

(Copied my unapproved post to reply Rob)

Rob,

The XTC-3D coating is only meant to cover any imperfections in the print, and as such, is not a substitute for painting. Once the epoxy cures, it can be minimally scuffed with sandpaper to allow maximum adhesion of any acrylic paint to obtain the desired finish.

3D printers (and filament) are not created equal. Depending on configuration and settings, (nozzle bore, software, etc.) some printers produce layer print lines that require more (or less) time-consuming, mind-numbing sanding to obtain a smooth finish. This product, (which may be applied in layers) cuts down on the tedium allowing you to go from print to paint with a lot less time and effort.

As stated before, other methods of smoothing, such as acetone vapor deposition, are not suitable for PLA (which many people use). This has a two-fold use for PLA, it seals the surface. Being a bio-degradable, plant-based plastic, PLA is susceptible to water, (though you would have to immerse it for a looong time) and this product deals with that. The biggest enemy of PLA is direct sun; it deforms with very little coaxing in just a few minutes. A heat-absorbing black hull doesn't help.

Though more expensive and harder to print, (it needs a printer enclosure to maintain a higher ambient temperature for best results) ASA, followed by ABS is the optimum filament for RC submarines. The drawback to either filament is the toxic fumes they produce. There are a number of work-arounds for this; enhanced HEPA filtering, and ducts to direct the fumes elsewhere. For the majority of people printing, PLA is fine. It's cheap, non-toxic, and can be used on a less-expensive printer.

CCC

[Subculture]

It's an epoxy resin. they may have add a thixotropic additive liked fumed silica to thicken it up a bit and improve anti-sag properties.

[Groot689]

For those who enjoy priming and sanding 3D printed hulls, read no further. This product is a real timesaver:

I am new to 3D printing and hope to get more involved as I acquire more experience. Sanding and finishing the 3D printed item is not my favorite part of the process. This stuff looks like a game changer. Any application advice or is it as easy to apply as it appears? Thanks for the tip!

[Subculture]

Will start filling up all the scribing lines today and start making my usual brass stencils.

What it was good for was to use it as a drilling stencil for all the holes in the deck. Lessons learned.
t

Could you perhaps modify the tools to incorporate brass stencils in the critical areas, thus enabling the tools to hold the stencills in position? There is also some software out there that enables FDM printers to use non planar printing. It's a bit experimental though, although I'm sure it will eventually become a mainstream method of slicing. e.g.

[CC Clarke]

My reply is held as potential spam, awaiting Moderator approval.

[CC Clarke]

Rob,

The XTC-3D coating is only meant to cover any imperfections in the print, and as such, is not a substitute for painting. Once the epoxy cures, it can be minimally scuffed with sandpaper to allow maximum adhesion of any acrylic paint to obtain the desired finish.

3D printers (and filament) are not created equal. Depending on configuration and settings, (nozzle bore, software, etc.) some printers produce layer print lines that require more (or less) time-consuming, mind-numbing sanding to obtain a smooth finish. This product, (which may be applied in layers) cuts down on the tedium allowing you to go from print to paint with a lot less time and effort.

As stated before, other methods of smoothing, such as acetone vapor deposition, are not suitable for PLA (which many people use). This has a two-fold use for PLA, it seals the surface. Being a bio-degradable, plant-based plastic, PLA is susceptible to water, (though you would have to immerse it for a looong time) and this product deals with that. The biggest enemy of PLA is direct sun; it deforms with very little coaxing in just a few minutes.

Though more expensive and harder to print, (it needs a printer enclosure to maintain a higher ambient temperature for best results) ASA, followed by ABS is the optimum filament for RC submarines. The drawback to either filament is the toxic fumes they produce. There are a number of work-arounds for this; enhanced HEPA filtering, and ducts to direct the fumes elsewhere. For the majority of people printing, PLA is fine. It's cheap, non-toxic, and can be used on a less-expensive printer.

CCC

[rwtdiver]

CCC,

Thanks for posting the great information! Always looking for new products and better ways of finishing our 3D printed parts! I am assuming you could use a matt or flat clear coat to cut down the sheen if you did not want that high gloss finish left behind using the XTC-3D product?

Rob
Firemen can stand the heat"

[CC Clarke]

For those who enjoy priming and sanding 3D printed hulls, read no further. This product is a real timesaver:

XTC-3D™, High Performance 3D Print Coating | Smooth-On, Inc. (smooth-on.com)

Just ordered another Raise3D Pro2 this week, and a set of BuildTak FlexPlates for it and the other Pro2 Plus I use.

BuildTak is expensive -$20 a sheet, but I'm not a fan of glue sticks or hairspray to promote bed adhesion. The FlexPlates should increase the longevity of the BuildTak surface (I get about six months of continuous use from each.)

Best Dual Extruder 3D Printer - Pro2 | $3,999 | Raise3D

BuildTak FlexPlate System - BuildTak

CCC