3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

[SubDude]

The current 1/72 LA boat I am printing. 5-1/2" beam and 60" long.

[SubDude]

wondering are you guys pausing your long prints overnight and resuming the next day or letting them print straight through?

Straight through. I have had prints that took over 90 hours for a part.

[substandard]

wondering are you guys pausing your long prints overnight and resuming the next day or letting them print straight through?

[frozenottsel]

Stern plane servo lead to AD2; AD2 input lead to receiver port ch-6 (the one with the rotary knob on the transmitter).

Battery to BEC power wires; BEC 5-volt output to any unused receiver port or port marked, 'battery'.

Receiver port ch-4 to BLM's three-wire servo lead; BLM output to ballast servo and LPB through a Y-lead.

Okay, I think I've got it, I'm redrawing the block diagram right now.

If you don't mind me asking, what does LPB stand for?

[frozenottsel]

Hello everyone,

I'm finally getting around to working on the electronics and the WTC assembly and I've got a couple question on how I should be setting everything up; mainly in relation to where the AD2 is being connected and where and how my battery is being connected to the system.

As far as I understand the stern plane servo connects into the AD2, and the AD2 acts as an autonomous controller for the pitch, but I'm not sure where on the reciever that the AD2 will plug into; does it get it's own channel or does it share with the bow plane servo (channel 2 in the picture)?

Second question is how I'm setting up my battery. My initial assumption, as shown on the diagram, is that the battery goes into the BEC and then the BEC leads into the BLM. The BLM then connects to my ballast channel (channel 6 on the diagram) between the receiver and the linear actuator. If this is true, then that would mean that I can ignore the B channel (I assume B for battery) on the receiver, right? Also, my speed controller comes with it's own battery input connectors and an on-board BEC, would I need to do anything with the speed controller to prevent interferences or anything?

Thank you in advance for any suggestions or advice :D

[a1965l]

Working on my 3D printed Type Vll C this AM! I am about 1/2 way through the printing process at this point with approximately 60 hours total so far.





The hull portion of the project is moving a little bit slower because of materials! I use only Solutech PLA, and there inventory has been depleted because of the COVID-19!
Must be with everyone home bound there is a lot of 3D printers at work!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

That's impressive, printing the wintergarden on a filament printer... very nicely done. I may have to try my skills at modeling one....

[a1965l]

It's a big boat.... just for scale, that's a 1/48 type IX hull in the picture with it...

[SubDude]

Shoot...one hull section for the 1/72 LA takes 60hrs for me to print. I have lost 1-1/2 parts and just started my 3rd spool. Still trying to get Hull4 to turn out. I will be painting it inside and out with a good quality high fill automotive polyurethane primer as an experiment.

[SteveNeill]

It's a lot of fun watching you guys do this. Keep having fun!

[substandard]

You could also print in ABS or ASA both have high heat resistance.

Not crazy about printing stinky filaments.

[coryhenry]

You could also print in ABS or ASA both have high heat resistance.

[substandard]

This could probably also be posted in the "Silly Questions from Newbies" but here she goes"
The part that bothers me about 3D printing subs with filament being what it is; is the durability in hot weather of the printed sub. (Subs are usually black - doah!).

What about 3D printing a sub as thin as reasonably possible and then laying up a layer or two of glass on top of it so its more durable and lasts in the sun?
Would that produce a durable and "good" final product?
For extra rigidity a glass layer could also be added on the sub inside after printing.

If this works it would allow for all of the benefits of 3D printing (accuracy, straight lines, less mess, less dust,less physical work etc) without a lot of the downsides of doing fiberglass molding work (making plug, crooked lines, sanding, sanding and more sanding etc)

What do you think?

[frozenottsel]

Update on my Virginia model.

Gluing is done (with exception for the tailpiece where the rudder and stern plane axles with go), hold-down screw inserts are in (note to self: in the future, design the holes for the inserts into the model, it'll be easier than drilling the holes), and I've finished a first pass of sanding :D



Really starting to come together now :D

[george]

Is the VII C file your creation OR did you find it somewhere?
Thanks for sharing your build/collection.

[SubDude]

I have started the LA class boat but printing it at 1/72nd scale which makes it a 5.5" beam and just over 60" long.


Again using PLA+. I am hoping the MSD in the Redoutable will also work in it too. I will see...

Steve