3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

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  • rwtdiver
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

    Bob's the final arbiter, of course. But I'm game -- most techniques you will present are transferable to model submarines.

    You've been banned already today (me too), so double-down, pal. Push that envelop!

    David
    Thank David!

    I did check in with Bob, and he said OK to do, but suggested that I set it up under it's own blog that way people can respond to it easier!

    Side Note: I have finally started the long awaited Moebius Skipjack build! I have your 3.5" SD and your new fitting kit so I am ready! I will be installing functional sail planes as well! Thanks again for the great video show the sail planes in action.

    Rob

    "Firemen can stand the heat"

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by rwtdiver
    OK! I have a Question: This blog and this forum for that matter is set up for 3D printing Submarines and parts for Submarines, and building other type of Sub kits! I have another project that I would like to do and use this blog for the build if possible!

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Sub Chaser.jpg
Views:	387
Size:	65.4 KB
ID:	143234

    This is a 3D printed full RC operational model of a WWll Submarine Chaser "194" It is the scale model of the full scale boat! It will finish out to about 36" in length and a beam of 5.5"! I do realize it does not fit into what we do here, but it is Submarine related.

    Please give me your input as to if it would fill the bill here and be OK on this blog! Thank you!

    Rob

    "Firemen can stand the heat"


    Bob's the final arbiter, of course. But I'm game -- most techniques you will present are transferable to model submarines.

    You've been banned already today (me too), so double-down, pal. Push that envelop!

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • rwtdiver
    replied
    OK! I have a Question: This blog and this forum for that matter is set up for 3D printing Submarines and parts for Submarines, and building other type of Sub kits! I have another project that I would like to do and use this blog for the build if possible!

    Click image for larger version

Name:	Sub Chaser.jpg
Views:	387
Size:	65.4 KB
ID:	143234

    This is a 3D printed full RC operational model of a WWll Submarine Chaser "194" It is the scale model of the full scale boat! It will finish out to about 36" in length and a beam of 5.5"! I do realize it does not fit into what we do here, but it is Submarine related.

    Please give me your input as to if it would fill the bill here and be OK on this blog! Thank you!

    Rob

    "Firemen can stand the heat"



    Leave a comment:


  • RCSubGuy
    replied
    I started a print of the upcoming Delphin kit in white ASA before I left for Texas and it was going well. When I get back I’ll see how it turned out and post pics.

    One thing I will say is you need a really hot bed, an enclosed chamber and a hot tip in order to make it work. Not all printers will handle it....

    Leave a comment:


  • SubDude
    replied
    Originally posted by Sinksalot
    I just left the Hull part in the back yard. Well i was lazy to get it from the back yard. So lets see what a week in the sun will do lol. I know people use the black version to print replacement black parts for the plastic parts on cars. Here is where I buy my ASA Filament:



    Comes in white or black.
    I will have some on Friday to try out. I believe Bob just recently printed the new Typhoon prototype with it and it looks great!

    Leave a comment:


  • Sinksalot
    replied
    I just left the Hull part in the back yard. Well i was lazy to get it from the back yard. So lets see what a week in the sun will do lol. I know people use the black version to print replacement black parts for the plastic parts on cars. Here is where I buy my ASA Filament:



    Comes in white or black.

    Leave a comment:


  • SubDude
    replied
    I have ordered some ASA to try.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sinksalot
    replied
    Ok the Hull section I printed for this test was from the German XXI uboat 1/48 scale. The ASA Filament is white and I painted the left side of the hull in a grey primer. I left it in the Direct sun light on Saturday from 12pm to 7pm at 92f degrees and on Sunday it was in direct sun light from 8 am to 6pm at 91f degrees. I haven't seen and melting or warping yet. I touched the ASA filament on the bare white side then of the gray primer side. The gray primer side was warmer my alittle. I dont have black spray, i will buy some and spay it on the gray and put it out in the sun.

    Leave a comment:


  • type7
    replied
    I have a Sidewinder X1 with a glass plate with some kind of coating on it. Aquanet hairspray generally works to get PETG to stick to it. I'm new to this and am just getting it sorted out but it seems to work well with PETG.

    Leave a comment:


  • a1965l
    replied
    I too have the Ender 3 pro with the magnetic build surface, and I've had zero luck getting PETG to stick to it. I resorted to masking tape and glue sticks, which seem to do the trick.

    Leave a comment:


  • coryhenry
    replied
    Originally posted by Sinksalot
    Ok alot of people been always telling me that ASA filament is great for outdoor in the sun. So I printed out a piece of hull from the XXI sub. I put the Hull part on a piece of wood in the middle of the yard where it will be hit by the sun all day . Its was 92F on Saturday and sunny. I haven't seen anything happen to it yet, but I only had it out for 5 hours in direct sunlight. we see what happens on Sunday at the end of the day.
    Great experiment. I'm waiting for my Prusa to come and to get home so I can try out their ASA. Of course I'm also waiting for the Typhoon from Bob.

    Leave a comment:


  • CC Clarke
    replied
    A PLA hull can turn into a banana in as little as 20 min in direct sunlight. (Been there, done that.) ASA is a much better choice. ABS is great, but a PITA to print with for a lot of reasons - taking shrinkage into account for geometric tolerancing being but one.

    For long print, bulletproof bed adhesion, I use a raft on Buildtak, and clean it with IPA as soon as I remove a part. Geckomat is an excellent (and much cheaper alternative @ $5 a sheet versus $25.)

    I've got access to a Raise3DPro Plus (nearly 2' Z axis build height!) https://www.raise3d.com/pro2-plus/ but am waiting for Raise3D to get their collective #$%! together with the new, independent dual-extruder E2 before buying one for personal use. Being able to print two parts at once makes volume production very attractive.

    CCC
    Last edited by CC Clarke; 08-23-2020, 07:08 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sinksalot
    replied
    Ok alot of people been always telling me that ASA filament is great for outdoor in the sun. So I printed out a piece of hull from the XXI sub. I put the Hull part on a piece of wood in the middle of the yard where it will be hit by the sun all day . Its was 92F on Saturday and sunny. I haven't seen anything happen to it yet, but I only had it out for 5 hours in direct sunlight. we see what happens on Sunday at the end of the day.

    Leave a comment:


  • SubDude
    replied
    Originally posted by substandard

    Wondering what's your secret for excellent adhesion to the bed for that long? If a 90 hour print came loose early I'd be pretty ticked off at the printer.
    Prints fail for many reasons. Yeah it is a bummer if it happens late so we try to minimize the possibilities of it happening. So far the only adhesion issues I have experienced have been with ABS. My machine is an Ender 3 Pro with the magnetic build surface. PLA, PLA+ and PETG stick well to it. If a part is tall and has a narrow base I will include a raft or skirt to increase the build plate surface area but all-in-all its just time and plastic.

    Leave a comment:


  • substandard
    replied
    Originally posted by RCJetDude

    Straight through. I have had prints that took over 90 hours for a part.
    Wondering what's your secret for excellent adhesion to the bed for that long? If a 90 hour print came loose early I'd be pretty ticked off at the printer.

    Leave a comment:

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