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3D Printing Submariens and Sub Components

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  • I too have the Ender 3 pro with the magnetic build surface, and I've had zero luck getting PETG to stick to it. I resorted to masking tape and glue sticks, which seem to do the trick.
    "It does not take so many words to speak the truth" Chief Joseph

    Comment


    • I have a Sidewinder X1 with a glass plate with some kind of coating on it. Aquanet hairspray generally works to get PETG to stick to it. I'm new to this and am just getting it sorted out but it seems to work well with PETG.

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      • Ok the Hull section I printed for this test was from the German XXI uboat 1/48 scale. The ASA Filament is white and I painted the left side of the hull in a grey primer. I left it in the Direct sun light on Saturday from 12pm to 7pm at 92f degrees and on Sunday it was in direct sun light from 8 am to 6pm at 91f degrees. I haven't seen and melting or warping yet. I touched the ASA filament on the bare white side then of the gray primer side. The gray primer side was warmer my alittle. I dont have black spray, i will buy some and spay it on the gray and put it out in the sun.

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        • I have ordered some ASA to try.

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          • I just left the Hull part in the back yard. Well i was lazy to get it from the back yard. So lets see what a week in the sun will do lol. I know people use the black version to print replacement black parts for the plastic parts on cars. Here is where I buy my ASA Filament:

            https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-Pri.../dp/B07QM79N45

            Comes in white or black.

            Comment


            • Originally posted by Sinksalot View Post
              I just left the Hull part in the back yard. Well i was lazy to get it from the back yard. So lets see what a week in the sun will do lol. I know people use the black version to print replacement black parts for the plastic parts on cars. Here is where I buy my ASA Filament:

              https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-Pri.../dp/B07QM79N45

              Comes in white or black.
              I will have some on Friday to try out. I believe Bob just recently printed the new Typhoon prototype with it and it looks great!

              Comment


              • I started a print of the upcoming Delphin kit in white ASA before I left for Texas and it was going well. When I get back I’ll see how it turned out and post pics.

                One thing I will say is you need a really hot bed, an enclosed chamber and a hot tip in order to make it work. Not all printers will handle it....

                Comment


                • OK! I have a Question: This blog and this forum for that matter is set up for 3D printing Submarines and parts for Submarines, and building other type of Sub kits! I have another project that I would like to do and use this blog for the build if possible!

                  Click image for larger version

Name:	Sub Chaser.jpg
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ID:	143234

                  This is a 3D printed full RC operational model of a WWll Submarine Chaser "194" It is the scale model of the full scale boat! It will finish out to about 36" in length and a beam of 5.5"! I do realize it does not fit into what we do here, but it is Submarine related.

                  Please give me your input as to if it would fill the bill here and be OK on this blog! Thank you!

                  Rob

                  "Firemen can stand the heat"



                  Comment


                  • Originally posted by rwtdiver View Post
                    OK! I have a Question: This blog and this forum for that matter is set up for 3D printing Submarines and parts for Submarines, and building other type of Sub kits! I have another project that I would like to do and use this blog for the build if possible!

                    Click image for larger version

Name:	Sub Chaser.jpg
Views:	130
Size:	65.4 KB
ID:	143234

                    This is a 3D printed full RC operational model of a WWll Submarine Chaser "194" It is the scale model of the full scale boat! It will finish out to about 36" in length and a beam of 5.5"! I do realize it does not fit into what we do here, but it is Submarine related.

                    Please give me your input as to if it would fill the bill here and be OK on this blog! Thank you!

                    Rob

                    "Firemen can stand the heat"


                    Bob's the final arbiter, of course. But I'm game -- most techniques you will present are transferable to model submarines.

                    You've been banned already today (me too), so double-down, pal. Push that envelop!

                    David
                    "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                    Comment


                    • Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post

                      Bob's the final arbiter, of course. But I'm game -- most techniques you will present are transferable to model submarines.

                      You've been banned already today (me too), so double-down, pal. Push that envelop!

                      David
                      Thank David!

                      I did check in with Bob, and he said OK to do, but suggested that I set it up under it's own blog that way people can respond to it easier!

                      Side Note: I have finally started the long awaited Moebius Skipjack build! I have your 3.5" SD and your new fitting kit so I am ready! I will be installing functional sail planes as well! Thanks again for the great video show the sail planes in action.

                      Rob

                      "Firemen can stand the heat"

                      Comment


                      • Originally posted by rwtdiver View Post

                        Thank David!

                        I did check in with Bob, and he said OK to do, but suggested that I set it up under it's own blog that way people can respond to it easier!

                        Side Note: I have finally started the long awaited Moebius Skipjack build! I have your 3.5" SD and your new fitting kit so I am ready! I will be installing functional sail planes as well! Thanks again for the great video show the sail planes in action.

                        Rob

                        "Firemen can stand the heat"
                        Looking forward to both projects, Rob.

                        David
                        "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

                        Comment


                        • Originally posted by Sinksalot View Post
                          I just left the Hull part in the back yard. Well i was lazy to get it from the back yard. So lets see what a week in the sun will do lol. I know people use the black version to print replacement black parts for the plastic parts on cars. Here is where I buy my ASA Filament:

                          https://www.amazon.com/Polymaker-Pri.../dp/B07QM79N45

                          Comes in white or black.
                          I got the black and started printing with it yesterday. So far I am impressed. I replaced the magnetic build surface with a piece of mirror. Using Magigoo to adhere the part to the plate. I also upgraded my hot end to one with a titanium heat break intended to eliminate heat creep and clogging. Printing in a heated enclosure maintaining 40 C. Nozzle is 260 C and bed is 90 C. Printing at 0.12 mm layer height and 40 mm/s speed. No visible warping or lifting from the bed. For what I am printing it is very smooth. I printed a sample part and let it sit on my driveway for about 4 hours in direct sunlight and it didn't even get soft. All I can say is it is very promising.

                          Comment


                          • Originally posted by RCJetDude View Post

                            I got the black and started printing with it yesterday. So far I am impressed. I replaced the magnetic build surface with a piece of mirror. Using Magigoo to adhere the part to the plate. I also upgraded my hot end to one with a titanium heat break intended to eliminate heat creep and clogging. Printing in a heated enclosure maintaining 40 C. Nozzle is 260 C and bed is 90 C. Printing at 0.12 mm layer height and 40 mm/s speed. No visible warping or lifting from the bed. For what I am printing it is very smooth. I printed a sample part and let it sit on my driveway for about 4 hours in direct sunlight and it didn't even get soft. All I can say is it is very promising.
                            I only used white so far. However I have my enclosure set at 55 C. I use a heater I got off amazon with a Temperature Controller 110V Digital Thermostat Switch that measures the temp in the enclosure and turn the heat on and off to maintain the temp.

                            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                            https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

                            The only thing I dont like about ASA filament, other then how hard it is to print, is the cost. I mostly use PLA and ABS filment that cost $15 a spool. This ASA is double the cost. But I sure once I get my Saturn resin printer I be yelling about the cost of resin too lol.

                            One final piece of advice. I do not have my control board electronics or my LCD screen inside my enclosure as heat can kill electronics and LCD screens.

                            Here is a picture of my home made enclosure.
                            Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_0457.JPG Views:	0 Size:	53.4 KB ID:	143477
                            Last edited by Sinksalot; 09-10-2020, 04:46 PM.

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                            • The amount of time I will save sanding and filling, the fretting I will spare myself over the effects of the sun and the amount of primer I will save should more than make up for the price increase.
                              Last edited by RCJetDude; 09-10-2020, 05:54 PM.

                              Comment


                              • Hi Guys,


                                What's in it to me.

                                I strongly believe that 3D printing will be the future. However, although print quality is getting very good, artifacts are still inevitable.


                                For the moment 3D printing can be used as an aide but not as an end product in modeling for me.

                                Same goes for CNC routers for home use, although the quality of the product is fore better then 3D printing, small details forget about it.


                                I use both, depending on the cost and time involved I go for one or the other.......or often chose for hand crafting, as it is more time and cost effective.

                                I use the "new tech to my benefits, but people must be aware that it has its limitations.


                                Just want to point that out for those who wants to "dive in" (sorry for the use of that @subculture)


                                Grtz,

                                Bart

                                Practical wisdom is only to be learned in the school of experience.
                                "Samuel Smiles"
                                http://scale-submarine.com/index.html

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