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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Moderator

    • Aug 2008
    • 13912

    #3781
    Originally posted by Subculture
    I wondered what the spray gun was for, are you applying a release agent?
    A cheapy Harbor Freight touch-up gun with a 1.5mm nozzle.
    Who is John Galt?

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator

      • Aug 2008
      • 13912

      #3782
      Originally posted by trout
      The Cab-o-sil was used with the gel coat and then you will lay cloth down? Trying to understand the process. Just put cloth down on a 3D printed A26, I s**k (inhale violently) at this.
      That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.

      As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • Subculture
        Admiral

        • Feb 2009
        • 2591

        #3783
        I think you mean Tom rather than Steve, Dave.

        Comment

        • DrSchmidt
          Rear Admiral

          • Apr 2014
          • 1382

          #3784
          Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named

          That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.

          As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.
          As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.



          Comment

          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
            Moderator

            • Aug 2008
            • 13912

            #3785
            Originally posted by DrSchmidt

            As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.


            Sounds like the perfect interface. I'll give it a go when I can source the cotton flock. Thanks again.

            David
            Who is John Galt?

            Comment

            • Subculture
              Admiral

              • Feb 2009
              • 2591

              #3786
              One supplier https://fiberglassflorida.com/filler...uDT-zTZSvR77nd

              Comment

              • DrSchmidt
                Rear Admiral

                • Apr 2014
                • 1382

                #3787
                Cotton flock is a must have for GRP. You can make a thick mixture and smear it into corners to create a radius so that you can get the glass fiber layed down properly. Much more strength than with micro balloons....

                Comment

                • JHapprich
                  Rear Admiral

                  • Oct 2017
                  • 1034

                  #3788
                  Maybe a dumb question, but can i use cotton flock with polyester resin, too? In the past, i used chopped fibres to mix up a thick resin to fill corners.

                  Comment

                  • DrSchmidt
                    Rear Admiral

                    • Apr 2014
                    • 1382

                    #3789
                    Of course you can...

                    Comment

                    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                      Moderator

                      • Aug 2008
                      • 13912

                      #3790

































                      Who is John Galt?

                      Comment

                      • trout
                        Admiral

                        • Jul 2011
                        • 3727

                        #3791
                        This is Tom, are the dots to align the cloth to the mold? Do you need to make any cuts in the cloth or will it just shape to the bend in the bow to aft orientation?
                        If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                        Comment

                        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                          Moderator

                          • Aug 2008
                          • 13912

                          #3792
                          Originally posted by trout
                          This is Tom, are the dots to align the cloth to the mold? Do you need to make any cuts in the cloth or will it just shape to the bend in the bow to aft orientation?
                          This is David... Duh!

                          After the first cuts on the template (a word Nazi recently 'corrected' me by insisting its a stencil) -- not always accurate, but over-size to permit fine trimming -- the first piece of glass is cut out and snuggled into the mold cavity. The dots indicate where the glass touches the flange edges. I then lay the cloth over the template and mark the 'correct' flange points onto the template/stencil and connect the dots with a pencil. I then trim the template/stencil about 1/4" outboard of the new flange line with scissors, and cut a second piece of glass to the refined outline. By time the third glass laminating piece is done, I only have to put up with an approximate 1/4" glass extension over the tools flange plane. Neat! I then go back to the first two glass laminates and cut them to the corrected template outline.

                          I'm using 7 ounce cloth so it's reasonably flexible. That -- coupled with the great efforts to fillet all high-relief areas of the tools cavity with gel-coat and brushed in 'goo' -- will permit my to snuggle each glass laminate in place without need of cut-outs, slits, doublers, or acts of violence.
                          Who is John Galt?

                          Comment

                          • trout
                            Admiral

                            • Jul 2011
                            • 3727

                            #3793
                            I will chalk my attempt on the Swedish A26 sub to crawling. I should have practiced on a boat or a simple hull. The 3D printed A26 model that Bob sells has ribs along the length. I tried my best, but have bubbles and gaps. I will try to fill the bubbles, but will not go crazy making the inside look good. Thank you for documenting the steps on fiberglassing. I did not pay attention to your other posts on fiberglassing because I did not need that info or it was not high on my needs. Well it is a skill I need to pick up now. So again thank you!
                            If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                            Comment

                            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                              Moderator

                              • Aug 2008
                              • 13912

                              #3794
                              Originally posted by trout
                              I will chalk my attempt on the Swedish A26 sub to crawling. I should have practiced on a boat or a simple hull. The 3D printed A26 model that Bob sells has ribs along the length. I tried my best, but have bubbles and gaps. I will try to fill the bubbles, but will not go crazy making the inside look good. Thank you for documenting the steps on fiberglassing. I did not pay attention to your other posts on fiberglassing because I did not need that info or it was not high on my needs. Well it is a skill I need to pick up now. So again thank you!
                              More to be posted today: I start laying up the glass laminates this morning. The initial trial is three laminates. This first hull is for Jake so no big deal if it don't come out perfect. One after that is for me. And finally, the third and last hull will be the clients. By that third pull the hull pieces should be just about perfect in finish and wall thickness.
                              Who is John Galt?

                              Comment

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