today's work
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That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.
As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.Who is John Galt?Comment
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As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.
That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.
As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.
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Sounds like the perfect interface. I'll give it a go when I can source the cotton flock. Thanks again.
As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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This is Tom, are the dots to align the cloth to the mold? Do you need to make any cuts in the cloth or will it just shape to the bend in the bow to aft orientation?If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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This is David... Duh!
After the first cuts on the template (a word Nazi recently 'corrected' me by insisting its a stencil) -- not always accurate, but over-size to permit fine trimming -- the first piece of glass is cut out and snuggled into the mold cavity. The dots indicate where the glass touches the flange edges. I then lay the cloth over the template and mark the 'correct' flange points onto the template/stencil and connect the dots with a pencil. I then trim the template/stencil about 1/4" outboard of the new flange line with scissors, and cut a second piece of glass to the refined outline. By time the third glass laminating piece is done, I only have to put up with an approximate 1/4" glass extension over the tools flange plane. Neat! I then go back to the first two glass laminates and cut them to the corrected template outline.
I'm using 7 ounce cloth so it's reasonably flexible. That -- coupled with the great efforts to fillet all high-relief areas of the tools cavity with gel-coat and brushed in 'goo' -- will permit my to snuggle each glass laminate in place without need of cut-outs, slits, doublers, or acts of violence.Who is John Galt?Comment
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I will chalk my attempt on the Swedish A26 sub to crawling. I should have practiced on a boat or a simple hull. The 3D printed A26 model that Bob sells has ribs along the length. I tried my best, but have bubbles and gaps. I will try to fill the bubbles, but will not go crazy making the inside look good. Thank you for documenting the steps on fiberglassing. I did not pay attention to your other posts on fiberglassing because I did not need that info or it was not high on my needs. Well it is a skill I need to pick up now. So again thank you!If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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More to be posted today: I start laying up the glass laminates this morning. The initial trial is three laminates. This first hull is for Jake so no big deal if it don't come out perfect. One after that is for me. And finally, the third and last hull will be the clients. By that third pull the hull pieces should be just about perfect in finish and wall thickness.I will chalk my attempt on the Swedish A26 sub to crawling. I should have practiced on a boat or a simple hull. The 3D printed A26 model that Bob sells has ribs along the length. I tried my best, but have bubbles and gaps. I will try to fill the bubbles, but will not go crazy making the inside look good. Thank you for documenting the steps on fiberglassing. I did not pay attention to your other posts on fiberglassing because I did not need that info or it was not high on my needs. Well it is a skill I need to pick up now. So again thank you!Who is John Galt?Comment




















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