today's work
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That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.
As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.Who is John Galt?Comment
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As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.
That's right, Steve. Today I rough sand the hardened gel-coat then get on with four (maybe more?) laminates of 7 ounce cloth. Should be popping out two hull halves by the end of the week.
As for your evil, SkyNet, Robot produced A26 (the airplane??) model: Prepare the interior for glass work by scrubbing it down with a greenie-pad soaked in lacquer thinner -- wiping it dry quickly so you don't melt the thing. Then use a very, very light-weight cloth that will not bunch up on you as you brush resin over the weave to secure it to the models substrate.
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Sounds like the perfect interface. I'll give it a go when I can source the cotton flock. Thanks again.
As I said: When you cover the gel coat with cotton flocks right after application and the let the gel coat cure, you'll get a coupling layer that doesn't require sanding after removal of the excess flocks. You get cotton fibers that are partly are stuck in the gel coat and that have an open end that will be anchored in the epoxy of the grp layers.
DavidWho is John Galt?Comment
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