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Oooops!!
Make that little piece of 1/16" tubing 3/32" long, as opposed to 13/32!
"Fat finger syndrome"!!
Make that little piece of 1/16" tubing 3/32" long, as opposed to 13/32!
"Fat finger syndrome"!!
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My apologies for the interruptions. Please continue.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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Gary, could you place a 10 cent coin next to your work so most can get an idea on how small the bits are that you're working with. I have one of these kits so I can really appreciate your work!
I will start on some of my 1:144 kits as soon as I finish my 1:1 replica of the 1894 Sylvester Roper Steam Motorcycle. Now, I'm learning a lot from your posts.
Regards,
MyronComment
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Heres an idea. Why not use tiny rare earth magnets along with the float seasaw to (either through attraction or repulsion ) operate the bow plane mechanism.Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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No worries, redboat219, and thanks a bunch for the tip involving magnets!! Excellent idea!
I kinda think I've "got it licked" now? Just a tad more "engineering" and I should have something pretty
simple ready to go! We shall see!! Hah!Comment
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Happy to oblige, Myron!
Here is the last photo from yesterday with a dime on one side,
and a nickel on the other for size comparison. Relatively small parts, to say the least!!
If at any time you should require further clarification on anything I'm doing,
please ask! Always happy to be of assistance to a fellow modeler!
Have a good day!
crazygary, out!Comment
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Houston, we have retractable forward planes!!!
Here they be in dive mode...
In this position, the float would have raised up, and forced the operating arms down to deploy the dive planes.
The piece of white plastic you see a couple of inches aft of the hinge points is a temporary "pivot point", until
I figure out exactly how I'll finish it! At the aftmost end of the brass tube is where the float will be attached.
Here they are retracted...
It's pretty doubtful that they'll retract alot while on the surface, but certainly
will when she's back on dry land! Also notice that they don't retract all the way against the hull.
This was due to a necessary "trade off"! It was either let them retract as far as they can, or cut a hole in the deck
and put some sort of really strange, bulbous thing up there to cover the linkage!! Not happenin'!!!
May do a bit more "tweaking" on the control arms. If so, I'll post the final results!
Will be back when the fulcrum tube mount and float are in! So for now, it's
crazygary, out!
BTW- That was a fun "challenge", M!! Thanks for the encouragement!!Comment
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Thanks, Sublime!!
Appreciate your comments!! About the closest I'll ever get to being a "watchmaker" is if I "watch"
somebody else do it!! Hah!!
Many years of being a machinist, tool maker, modelmaker, moldmaker, etc., have
taught me pretty well! Just a mater of knowing which "of the above" to choose from when doing the R&D stuff!!
Anyone can do it!! Just gotta put your mind to it, and not be afraid to disintegrate a few brain cells from time to time!
If I can do it, you can do it!! Think it through alot, make sketches and lotsa mistakes. Only then does the confidence come
that'll let ya do it right!! Kick butt, and take names!!!! Above all, have fun and make every adventure a learning experience!
You heard it here, folks!! (LOL)
Right, M???
And yes, the little 1 1/4" subdriver will fit really well! There'll be plenty of room in there for it!Comment
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Gary,
it is a pleasure to see you build. You are an inspiration my friend. Myron's suggestion about putting a coin by the planes really brings it into perspective of what you are dealing with and the skill of your work. Keep it up!If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.Comment
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Good stuff, Gary. You made it work and with less Rube Goldberg than I initially thought it would take.
MWho is John Galt?Comment
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Just wondering, how would your bow planes react to wave action while the boat is surfaced. Would your bow planes start flopping up and down everytime you pass through a wave?Make it simple, make strong, make it work!Comment
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Thanks, Tom!!
Starting off from "square 1", I can appreciate all of the "trials and tribulations" that you have gone through
with some of your builds!
Can't be really sure of what you're going to get in to, until ya get there! Then the "fun" begins! I might have been better off
with a bigger scale, but am trying to pick-and-choose my subs according to the size of our pool! Hence 1/144!! Don't know
what her turning radius will be, but I'm hoping for a "180" in about 12 feet! The other end is about 15' across, but gotta be able
to swing her about on both ends!!!
Thanks for so much valuable inspiration!! I'll be following your builds for a long time to come!!Comment
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G'Mornin', M!!
Thank you, sir! I'll take that as a compliment!!? Although Mr. Goldberg was "simplistically genius",
I try to avoid the "mickey mouse" scenario as much as is humanly possible!! Hah!!
However, I am open to "creative eye-talian engineering"!! (LOL)
The 'OLD crazy gary" confidence is now back with a vengeance, thanks to everyone on this forum!!
Inspiration abounding at every turn! Thanks a bunch, guys!!! Hope you haven't created a Frankenstein!!Comment
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G'Day, redboat219!
When surfaced, they may well want to flap around like a crazed albatross, but won't really
know until she's in the water!
I'm guessing that the float, itself, will be the determining factor there! A heavier float might
help fight the flapping, but buoyancy may be a problem. Also, I don't want to add too much
unnecessary extra weight to the bow!!
Any suggestions would be appreciated, as I was thinking about using the bulb end of
a pipette as a float. Pretty lightweight, but would certainly create enough buoyancy to
keep the planes fairly rigid when underwater. The downside is that, on the surface, things
could get a little "out-of-control"!! That would be where the "Rube Goldberg" scenario may
come into play!Comment
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