Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[trout]

Thank you Scott, I pray your day was filled with family and peace.
happy Thanksgiving to all!

[Scott T]

Happy Thanksgiving Trout and all the Subdriver members!!

[trout]

I was able to sneak a few minutes in today to get the o-rings changed.
Pinching along the edge and moving your fingers to the top will bring the o-ring off the channel. I used a toothpick to clean out the old teflon tape out of the grooves. Put down a film of silicon grease and then wrapped tape around about 7 times in each channel. Greased up each new o-ring and inspected for any damage. Once each o-ring was in place, tested the seal.

The amount of squish on the o-ring looked good and the seal was complete all the way around, but..........

One small section at the bottom was a lot less indicated by the thinner line on the innermost 0-ring. That is were the water was coming in last time. If this does not work, I will use a different way to build up the channel which was suggested to me, but I have never tried before.

Trimmed the extra tape off with an x-acto blade. Now we are ready to test again. Maybe after Thanksgiving dinner.

[trout]

That is service! I received the replacement pieces.
Not much to show, to remove one of the screws that hold the bulkhead together I needed to remove the SAS float valve and reattach it. The gear went back with no problems.
Unfortunately the only pictures I took was after the fact.
A couple of rubber bands hold the vinyl hose down until the silicon dries.

While there was downtime, I moved the sail pushrod to the innermost hole on the servo horn. This will reduce travel of the pushrod. The other modification is the leveler pushrod was moved to the outermost hole. Not because I needed more travel, but in my head I think I would get quicker response since the farther away from the center the faster the travel is.

Later I will install the new o-rings.

[trout]

Does FOD stand for Fool On Deck?

[trout]

Mark, thank you. Yeah that must be it, factory defect. Couldn't be me, the town idiot, that was driving it. Actually I it probably was me. During the last pool test, I either became lax or cocky because there were a few times I had to throw the drive train in reverse. There is a pause I put between going forward to reverse, some of the reverses were full throttle. I bet I could figure it out because the way it is leaning in relation to the direction of the prop travel. Anyways, David was gracious to help me.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Something I heard towards the end of the run was a ticking/growling sound that was in sync with the speed of the prop speed. Since she is in dry-docks, I tried to turn the prop by hand and as it turned it would catch or bind. Opened up the end cap showed me this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24189[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]24190[/ATTACH]
Yes, I bent a tooth in the gear.

I'll slip a new spur-gear in your CARE package, Tom. No sweat. Looks like FOD damage -- something got between the pinion and spur and took out that tooth. Look around within the gear cavity ... is there an errant washer or set-screw floating around in there? Any shiny spots on the brass pinion-gear?

As Mark suggested -- this sort of thing is my ****-up. I likely buttoned this unit up with something still sitting loose in the gear cavity of the motor-bulkhead. I'm the bad-guy here.

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Something I heard towards the end of the run was a ticking/growling sound that was in sync with the speed of the prop speed. Since she is in dry-docks, I tried to turn the prop by hand and as it turned it would catch or bind. Opened up the end cap showed me this:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]24189[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]24190[/ATTACH]
Yes, I bent a tooth in the gear.

I'll slip a new spur-gear in your CARE package, Tom. No sweat. Looks like FOD damage -- something got between the pinion and spur and took out that tooth. Look around within the gear cavity ... is there an errant washer or set-screw floating around in there? Any shiny spots on the brass pinion-gear?

As Mark suggested -- this sort of thing is my ****-up. I likely buttoned this unit up with something still sitting loose in the gear cavity of the motor-bulkhead. I'm the bad-guy here.

M

[greenman407]

Im sure Dave can fix you right up. But , if need be you can buy those from "Stock Drive Products"

[greenman407]

Must be a factory defect. If it was an alignment problem, there would be more than one gear tooth worn. That gearbox is usually trouble free.

[trout]

Something I heard towards the end of the run was a ticking/growling sound that was in sync with the speed of the prop speed. Since she is in dry-docks, I tried to turn the prop by hand and as it turned it would catch or bind. Opened up the end cap showed me this:

Yes, I bent a tooth in the gear.

[trout]

Wow, that is service! Thank you David. For anyone wondering about service provided by sub-driver.com or D&E Miniatures, here it is! Proof.
Thank you again!
Hmmmm, now that I have some downtime...... Maybe I should jump into that Type 23!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

O-rings on the way, Tom (e-mail me your address again, please).

M

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

O-rings on the way, Tom (e-mail me your address again, please).

M

[greenman407]

Cool. Looks like your on top of it. The last time I had trouble with this I used vinyl pinstripe that you buy from the hobby store for stripping airplanes. I put four, five or six wraps in the bottom of the oring groove and it tightened everything up. Leak tested again to be sure. The silicone grease applied liberally helped also.