Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[MFR1964]

That looks good Tom, i wish i had such clear water nearby, how did your ballasttank preform?

Manfred.

[trout]

Thanks Ken!

[Ken_NJ]

Looks great Tom! Nice run!

[trout]

Thank you!
I cannot take credit for the paint job or a majority of the assembly, Rob, that was David Merriman's handiwork. I added some "stuff" and got it running. That I can take credit for.

[trout]

Today was the open water shakedown cruise. I get really nervous the first few times I run a new sub.
The run was made easier for two reasons. Neil Schmidt now lives in Las Vegas and came down to watch the sub run. Hanging with friends just makes it that much nicer. Second, the water was very clear. Had great visibility (except for two times when I was goofing around with speed and maneuvers - went deep) and the temperature as not surface of the sun hot!

The sub ran well. The only issue is a little porpoising and I will change the sensitivity of the leveler and see how it goes next time out. After one hour, I brought my sub in and at the shore the power light on the Zepsus switch was off. Odd, just figured that was that. When I got home to charge the batteries, as I opened the tube, the power came back on. Still had 12v+ left. Fully charged thee NiMh show 14.2v, so to only drop 2v after an hour that was cool to me. Now I got to find what caused power to go off. Once opened the WTC was bone dry!



As far as trim goes, I think I am there.
Here is the way it is as of today

Magnetic connector and my own pro shaft connector. Magnets were used on the prop shaft connector, but probably not necessary.


Most of the weight was below piston tank. There is a small slice in the bow.


All for that I used was in the aft of the sub.

[trout]

I needed to make a magnetic connector for the Skipjack.
The parts needed are:
Two cylinder magnets
Two thin slices of 5/32" tubing
Two 1/8" tubing cut slightly longer than the cylinder magnets
one 3/32" brass rod just a small section
Two 3/32" brass tube lengths

This is designed to fit on a 1/16" pushrod.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]27283[/ATTACH]
The 5/32" sliver slips on the end of each 1/8" tubing and gets soldered on.
Cut a length of 3/32" tube and solder so that it is in half way in the 1/8" piece, opposite of where the sliver is soldered. Do this to both 1/8" tubes.
One 1/8" tube will have the rod inserted in the same side as the sliver and is soldered in.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]27284[/ATTACH]
Put it in a lathe or hand piece like a dremel, even a drill press could probably be used. Anyway, using files thin the 1/8" tube until the magnet slips on. Also thin out the sliver. The thinner you make it the closer the magnets will be and stronger the hold. The purpose of the sliver is a stop for the magnet.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]27286[/ATTACH]
CA or epoxy the magnets in.

I have simplified this by deleting the brass sleeve that needed to be turned down. When I epoxy the magnet in, It fills the gap. Makes it a real quick and strong connector. I will post photos when I can.

[trout]

Ken, Thank you. If it helped, mission achieved! One thing I am certain of, you will take this to the next level! Technology does change, but the basics are still the same. Look forward to your build and maiden voyage!
Peace,
Tom

[Ken_NJ]

Just read thru all 21 pages of this Tom. Lots of good information, thanks for posting all the details, will help on my Skipjack. Technology changed from when you first started. One thing I have not embraced is 3D printing, maybe someday.

[trout]

Not everything needs to be 3d. In fact, I needed to make a saddle for the WTC because I shifted the cylinder forward to move the ballast tank to central to slightly forward's of mid point on sub.
Looking at the plans of the skipjack the sections are mostly round.I figured where I wanted the next saddle to be placed and measured the distance across the lower hull at that point (diameter of the circle). I had a sheet of PVC and scribed the diameter of the hull. Then I know the diameter of my cylinder, but where do I put it on the PVC? I used a level and made sure the hull was level and then made the cylinder level. The cylinder lined up with the prop shaft. Happy how it sat, measured the distance from the hull to the bottom of the WTC. (Smidge over 7mm) that is the distance my WTC needed to be lifted from the hull.


Then used a deep throat coping saw or jeweler's saw to cut it out.


So here is how the WTC sits


On my first trim session, I ended up with two pieces of lead in and two foam blocks. Unfortunately this test tank is too shallow, so I will need to redo this in the bathtub.

[trout]

For the past, year or so, I have been working on a piston WTC. A lot of 3d printing and ideas went into this. Some ideas I really liked, others just plain sucked. Name a portion of this WTC and I can tell you the horrors and successes. Anyways, I am thrilled to be past this portion. Now on to installing it to test performance. Here it is placed in the Skipjack

Now on to connecting the motor shaft to the propellor shaft.

[trout]

LOL - I understand Scott!

[Scott T]

Tom I prefer to drink my carbon dioxide.

[trout]

That question can open up a whole can of worms. Out in the garage, I have a CO2 tank and a 20 gallon compressor (cheap and loud). In the hobby room, I use a Badger 180-11 diaphragm compressor (3+ decades ago) it is quiet and for most detail and painting it works great.

The CO2 was recommended when I did competition and garage kits in the 80's and 90's. It is quiet and the thought was your paint does not dry as quickly (I do not know about this - personally). I always worried about CO2 replacing oxygen and passing out (hence why it is in the garage). Needless to say, I do not use it that much anymore. The big compressor I use for pushing a lot of paint or bigger jobs. That being said most of its use is for pressure pot or dusting off a piece.

[rwtdiver]

Tom,

Thank you for your input on the Paasch airbrush, that seems to be the one everyone is using! OK! One more question? Are you using a small hobby type compressor and if so, with or without the tank? For the amount of airbrushing I would be doing, I am not sure a tank type compressor would be necessary!? Thanks Tom, sorry for jumping your build blog and being such a pest a on this!

Rob

"Firemen can stand the heat"

[trout]

For the longest time, I used a Paasch airbrush (I also own a Aztec airbrush). I have used my Pashtun for four decades. When I built most of my subs, it was at a house where most of my stuff was packed. I used rattle cans and hand painted weathering. Now I am back to using whatever I want or I should say all means are available to me.
peace,
tom