Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build
Collapse
X
-
Thanks Bruce! Yes, they are used on the Gato for the air connections on the SNORT system. -
That's slick! Have you thought about an O ring between the connectors/magnets?
Cheers BruceLeave a comment:
-
I needed to make a magnetic connector for the Skipjack.
The parts needed are:
Two cylinder magnets
Two thin slices of 5/32" tubing
Two 1/8" tubing cut slightly longer than the cylinder magnets
one 3/32" brass rod just a small section
Two 3/32" brass tube lengths
This is designed to fit on a 1/16" pushrod.
The 5/32" sliver slips on the end of each 1/8" tubing and gets soldered on.
Cut a length of 3/32" tube and solder so that it is in half way in the 1/8" piece, opposite of where the sliver is soldered. Do this to both 1/8" tubes.
One 1/8" tube will have the rod inserted in the same side as the sliver and is soldered in.
Put it in a lathe or hand piece like a dremel, even a drill press could probably be used. Anyway, using files thin the 1/8" tube until the magnet slips on. Also thin out the sliver. The thinner you make it the closer the magnets will be and stronger the hold. The purpose of the sliver is a stop for the magnet.
CA or epoxy the magnets in.Last edited by trout; 04-10-2014, 12:57 AM.Leave a comment:
-
My pleasure! I have not tried it with the SAS system, but it worked great with the SNORT. It is on my to-do list!Leave a comment:
-
Right you are, Manfred. In fact, Tom had sent me some samples of what he's worked up in the way of magnetically latched plumbing connectors, as well as a more robust version of our magnetic linkage connectors. Feast your eyes on his work here:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]23227[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23228[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23229[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23230[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23231[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]23232[/ATTACH]
Was looking at your Air connectors and wondering what part no the magnet's are? Also any pic's of how you constructed the connectors?
Cheers BruceLeave a comment:
-
Was going to run the Skipjack, but needed to verify my seal, just on the off chance it didn't work. Well it didn't work. Creating a suction in the sub-driver, I could see water coming in the pushrod seal. Crude, I will replace it again...Leave a comment:
-
Way to go, Tom!!! Gittin' 'er done!!!!
My little Revell Skippy won't be ready for sea trials for a little bit yet,
but she's heading in the right direction!! YEEhah!!
Heading for the paint shop real soon!
!
All I gotta do now is "stuff the wtc" full o' goodies!! Hah!!
Looking forward to your weekends' results!! Hope she kicks butt!!Leave a comment:
-
Been building and not playing. This weekend will take her out and do another test. Probably at the pool and will update with the results.Leave a comment:
-
Thats a nice hex driver!! yes the prop grub screw is 50 thou' I just bought a hex driver to fit it (took the prop to the hobby shop to make sure...) 1/16 is to big....(except for RC Tanks)
Cheers Bruce
Ps: my sub driver is on the way!! yayLeave a comment:
-
That is a nice set. Will have to put that down on the wish list. Thanks for the link!Leave a comment:
-
I got mine off ebay. They're made by a company called Fastrax- http://www.fastrax-rc.com/rc-product...0002400&cat=ST
There are other makes out there too, I've seen some cheaper than this too, but the fastrax are a good quality item. Lot nicer than mucking about with individual allen keys.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: