Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[trout]

Put the upper hull behind the lower and aligned them up. The rib in the upper hull will be my reference for the aft end of the sail pushrod.

Collected and assembled the parts for the bow end of the Klik-on. A 1/16" wire or rod is the shank for the Klik-on and it will go into a 3/16" aluminum tube that has a 1/16" inside diameter.

Placed the bow Klik-on into the aluminum rod (CA'd it in) and tested the fit with aluminum tube attached. I will need to widen the hole a bit to accommodate and put a slight channel under the tube tapering down to the opening that the magnet goes into.

This allowed marking a rough end to the other side of the tube. It also gave me the path I needed to clean up.

An issue I had with aluminum push rods is the flex it has. I wanted the thrust to transfer to the sail plane and not be lost in bowing the tube. I also wanted the pushrod to be removable.

Taking a tube larger than the aluminum tube, I ground a channel into the plastic tube. Then using the X-acto blade cut out the thinned out area and filed it so it was wide enough to accept the aluminum tube.

The tube would snap in, but not slip out. The styrene tube is affixed to the top hull with Bondene like a U with the opening facing opposite of where it is attached.

Then I made a piece that is going to be mounted sideways, like a C. It is placed on a piece of styrene to raise it a little from the hull. Moving the pushrod to the furthest point backward (aft) I put the Klik-on and its mate and cut the tube to make sure there is enough room. Then pushed the pushrod to the most forward point and glued the C mount just ahead of this position.

Now to figure out how to get the connection from the pushrod to the sub-driver. I will work on that later (once I figure out how). Need to get some rest.

[trout]

Dan,
Thank you, that blesses me. Especially that you enjoy it enough to fill your hard drive up.
Peace,
tom

[roedj]

I would like to make just a quick comment at this point. Not only is this simply an outstanding build thread, I am also very grateful that you took the time to rename the pictures so that when stored on my computer they are automatically stored in chronological order. That, Sir, gets you an A+ in my book.

Many thanks,

Dan

[trout]

Thank you, sir.

Held off doing the drive shaft because there are always variances and I wanted to wait until the sub-driver was in place, good thing too.
For my build the aluminum tube needed to be cut 8 7/16" almost 1/4 an inch longer than recommended. There was room in the ends to extend the length, but I like having more of the ends in the tube.
First score the 7/32" aluminum tube with a blade like an X-acto. Then snap the tube were it was scored.

Then I drilled a 1/16" hole for the wire to go through.

Placed a piece of brass wire in the hole drilled out and tap it down on an anvil or steel block. Be careful to make sure the wire at one end is on the anvil and the other end you are hitting with a hammer.

Kept turning it over and worked both sides of the wire. It begins to mushroom out. If necessary you can file some off to make it closer to the tube.

Place the one end in the propeller's Dumas coupler and adjust the other end to fit. Mark the location with a Sharpe pen. Repeat process for other end.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Bronze, then speckle it with a tooth-brush loaded with gray paint.

M

[trout]

At first the gap between the dive planes or the rudder and the sub-driver servo pushrods seemed too wide, but in reality not too bad.

CA was used to affix the magnets. I do not know how others install their klik-ons, I placed the first set on (rudder), but I reverse the polarity on the second set of magnets (aft dive planes) so, when attaching the pushrods they will connect only with the proper wtc pushrod. I missed the part about needing to get a 3/16 Dumas connector, but had an old one around.

Here is an area I need to work on. The gap for the SAS inlet and outlets are wider than the piece supplied. I can widen the holes to match. Will work on that then attach using RTV silicon.

Tell me what color do you use for the prop? - I will give it a toning down, but I found gold or bronze, no brass. Gold looked too yellow, and bronze too reddish brown. Suggestions?

Next hurdle pushrod for the sail plane.

[trout]

Thank you guys.

Manfred,
A google search and you can find them, but this one is a small version (the other one I have is the standard size and would not be practical)
Here is what the standard size looks like:

I am looking to find the exact one, but since it was purchased a quarter century ago, things change. The one I use is made by Vigor (made in Germany) part number is PL-45J
Here is one close to it: http://www.nationaljewelerssupplies.com/p/ETPLR731.html
This one, might be the winner, looks pretty close to mine:



Mark, compared to the Gato (cue slasher movie violin music)

I am liking the look of the Scamps engine room.

[greenman407]

Nice and Neat, and functional to boot.

[MFR1964]

Neat Tom, i too like my stuff to be as compact as possible on the rearpart, where did you order those bendingpliers?, i can use that plier also for future projects.

Manfred.

[trout]

I put a LiPo 11.1v and fired it up. Oh my goodness - the power, it surprised me. Note limit speed to 50% on the radio.

The Bow Closing Plier was used on the Gato (http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...72-Gato/page18) and makes it really easy to bend the wires. This plier is used in jewelry for bending the shank of a ring.

Making careful bends to make the pushrods line up.

Here they are connected. That dog gone safety float valve keeps flopping around, it is beginning to annoy me.

Taking some more of the air hose (hopefully there will be some left for Sam's fish) sliced it down one side.

This now became the wire harness to manage the servo cables. The bundle stuffed by the receiver will be eliminated later.

It also will become the safety belt for the safety float valve. If this silicon will hold, might need to pin it.

[trout]

Scout's are now selling popcorn (anybody want some?), so my days are filled. I was able to get a bit more done.
Bundling and soldering.

Cut out a notch for the Dean's style plug to fit into.

Anyone have a Shadow Programmer they want to sell? I cannot find mine.

[trout]

Thank you both for the tips. There is an Ace hardware store near by. They had the switch and a boot for it!

[greenman407]

Ive also seen them at West Marine. A little pricey though.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The bigger one can be found at Wal-mart, Lowe's, or any electronics outlet.

M

[trout]

I need to order my toggle switch, I see this one on the sub-driver site http://www.sub-driver.com/waterproof-switch.html is this the one with the 1/4" thread (like for the Type VII or 2" sub-driver) or is this the 1/2" (for the Skipjack or 3.5" sub-driver)?
I need to get both, so any help in sourcing if not stocked at sub-driver. Thank you!