Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[trout]

Began to install the air hoses.

Then as I was attaching the hose to the aft end cap, it broke off.

[trout]

Yeah, what's the matter with you people? Sheesh. I was looking at your picture and I saw you had taped the tubing down,


it looked real tight. So I was not sure. Thank you. It is a duh moment when you think about it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Duh!

Leave the hoses ouside the Velcro.

You people!

M

[trout]

Ambroid glue.....loved that amber color.
I did gas airplanes, but they were the you-fly type, you fly around and around until you crashed or got crazy dizzy. Those tethered airplanes did not keep my interest long.

Back to business...... David, the air hoses, how do you run those? With the velcro strap going over the cylinder, I do not want them on top to be crushed. I could created some aluminum ducting, but the though of prying the hose off every time I open the cylinder seems problematic. Thoughts?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Of course it's brilliant!

I was into free-flight big time, and competitive -- did four Nat's before joining the Navy. 1/2A gas, A-2 glider, hand-launch glider, jet-X, Unlimited rubber, Wakefield rubber, and scale. Every year Cathy Montz (spelling) kicked my ass in Unlimited rubber.

I too love the smell of dope and Ambroid glue. It runs in my veins.

M

[trout]

I did not even think of clay, brilliant. Thanks for the tip!

You a stick and paper type model plane builder, Tom?

M

Yes, I was. When I was about 10 or 11 started to build gliders and rubber band powered planes.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Put a piece of wax paper atop the SD, place a soft piece of clay on the wax paper, put a piece of wax paper atop the clay, and mash down the upper hull. Remove upper hull.

Wa-La! Annular distance established.

You a stick and paper type model plane builder, Tom?

M

[trout]

I like the smell of Dope. Good advice and I will heed your council. lol
A lot happened and I am not sure what I did was correct or the best way. If someone who has done this can share how they did this step, i would appreciate the knowledge.
I needed to know how much distance I have from the top of the cylinder to the upper hull. What I did was bend a wire that would go through the stand hole and line up with the cylinders that the top of the wire was flush with the top of the sub-driver. Also, where the wire exited out the bottom of the hull, I wrapped with painters tape (masking tape would work). Marked the point it exits with a pen. The top of the wire has a sharp point and when I pushed the wire up the tip would dig into the plastic and scratch. I also marked under the hull on the tape around the wire the point it now exits the hull. So when I pulled the hull apart. I measured the distance on the tape between lowered position and touching the top of the hull it was 3/8". The mark left on the plastic by the point was my reference point. With this I was able to see how far apart the top hull Klik-on was from my reference point I needed and an estimate of the offset.

A lot of measuring. The Klik-on needs to be raised 1/4", which is just about what my z bending pliers make it. As proud as I was about how it came out, there was a problem. That arch or brace I put in is in the way. I can dive, but surfacing will not happen because the rearward travel is blocked by that brace. Marked the area that will be cut away.

Slid the top hull on and peeking through the cracks checked the way it lined up. Tacked the pushrod with a little CA. Then quickly closed the hull up. I moved the sail planes until I felt the magnets meet. Set it aside to let the CA dry a bit. Opened it up and put more CA around the pushrod I made to the one coming out of the WTC. Closed the lid again and felt it connect again.

Another view.

[Subculture]

Stop sniffing the glue!

[trout]

I must be going crazy, I reread your post and I misunderstood. Two corrections in one day.......Thank you for keeping me honest.

[Subculture]

I said I've not found better, ergo, they're the best brushed controllers I know of for marine use. I use them in one or two cars too, although most of them are now brushless, and Mike doesn't make brushless controllers, so I have to look elsewhere for those. I get my brushless controllers from Hobbyking, and have found them to be very good.

[trout]

I am sorry for the error. I stand corrected.
What have you found that is better?

[Subculture]

Microgyros is not an English company, it's a Scottish company. For brushed motors, I've not found better.

[trout]

Bruce,
MicroGyros is an English company. I know several people that use them overseas. Over Christmas he had a special and I thought why not try it. I already use Mtroniks - that is what is in the Gato. I can not say more than that until I get this going in the pond, so we shall see.
Great pics by the way!

[HvyCGN9]

I saw you are using a micro gyros esc? I had not heard of that make before what is it like compared to the Mtroniks?

I will be using a Mtroniks 20amp Viper(came out of my Salvage tug....ordered 2 15ampVipers.....got 1 15A and 1 20A!(in a 15A packet!)...The tug now has a pair of 15A vipers and the 20 was waiting for a project!)(see pic of tug towing an Arleigh Burke in Targets thread..)

Cheers Bruce