Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[trout]

I have had suggestions from rub it with wool and ground the sprayer (so a poor man's powder coating) to Scott's throw it in the dryer......The static cling sheet might help if I rub it in the hull and not where I am going to paint. Another idea was to wear a grounding wrist strap, which I have. We will see what works soon - minus the throw it in the dryer, sorry Scott.
I played with a tip I heard about 20+ years ago. I thought it was so cool that it stuck with me and I never had all the components to try it or the right model.
What he used is oil paint thinned with turpenoid and a wash of what I thought was enamel paint thinner.

With the thinner laid down....

The brush that is dipped in the thinned out oil paint is touched to a corner of the scribed recess. It is cool to see it pull the white around. I did notice that I had to wick up some of the thinner. Then applied the thinned oil paint.

It was o.k., The enamel thinner did soften the paint a little (because it is enamel paint). I do not remember if he used the enamel thinner over acrylic paint, but after doing this experiment I believe it probably was.
One square done.

Completed the aft deck.

I used just the thinned oil paint and it wicked around pretty good without the thinner. Looking back, it might have been good to re-scribe some lines in because some of the lines had softened up in the mold pulling run (torpedo doors for one) and other lines filled in with paint. The brush I used should have been even finer (it was a 00), so next time 0000. The 00 even touching the line it would also touch out side the line. While rubbing off the excess of paint and brush dots left a slight film behind (enamel thinner etching the surface). I am going to use a 1200 grit sand paper to remove the film before a clear coat goes over it all.

I did put a lighter gray on the top bow sonar. Have not seen it done on the Scamp pictures I have, but I like the way it looks. I might tone it down a bit. The white in the scribing will probably be made a little less stark too. As far as this technique, that I have waited 20 years to try, meh to cool depending on how sharp the scribing is. This guy did amazing detail work and this worked for him. I will try to use this to figure out where it will work for me and where it won't.

[Scott T]

Just throw it in the dryer with some of those static cling sheets for a few minutes.:wink:
Or maybe just rub it with one of those sheets. It may also make it smell better.

Scott T

[trout]

Thank you Alec, I do not know about sophisticated, but it works. If you look closely at the photo, the tube holder to the right facing you was broken off the tube by me trying to put the hose on and not letting it completely dry. So it is now taped and drying again. The RTV rubber that has oozed out, I will clean up later.

[alad61]

Now that is neat!! I did something similar with brass tube. But NO where near as sophisticated. Good job mate.

[trout]

A bit cleaner looking. I am having a heck of a time with static and animal fur. The model is a magnet for the dog and cat fur. I wipe it down and the static just makes it cling right back again. My sail is going for another paint job. Suggestions for removing static?

[trout]

I placed sandpaper with the grit facing up and sanded the base of each tube holder to rough them up.
Putting the tube holders on the sub-driver, I worked out where I wanted the holders to be and initially just used on piece of tape per base to hold it. Tested the location by putting the upper portion of the deck on. It turned out I needed to move them further apart to avoid the foam. Once happy with the location I surround each base with tape.

Removing the base I rough up the polycarbonate tube to give a grip to the RTV rubber.

Place a small amount of the rubber on the base and tube. Then squishing the base down, move it in a slight circular motion to work the rubber to coat the entire area. If some RTV works its way out that is O.K. The tape when removed will take care of that.

Once all are in place let it set for a couple of hours.

Then carefully remove the tape. The rubber has begun to firm up and the base will not move easily, but any rubber on the tape will separate as it is peeled off leaving a clean edge.

The holder not only controls the vinyl tube, but it is raised enough for the velcro band to slip under.

This is not necessary to do this, but for me it looks cleaner and I do not need to wrestle with the tubing as I assemble the hull for sailing. It also sets up the testing of the quick connectors for the air at a later time. I notice that David tapes down the hoses in the instructions pictures and that is another way to do this.

I will let the RTV rubber completely dry before I attempt to connect the hoses.

[trout]

Thanks Manfred! The piston and sliding stuff is for something else entirely. It is something I have been working with on paper for awhile now. I just need to build about three more subs and I might have some free time to play.

[MFR1964]

Nicely done Tom, as for using aluminum tubes for the SAS air, that will work fine, did the same on my SD, as for sliding stuff i wouldn't use that, the SAS is using lowpressure, the LPB which runs my scope and snorkel, is high pressure, made that with hoses all the way, i suspect that the connections to my aluminum tubes can't handle that kind of pressure.
Making things slide with your resin piston and O ring will work, you simply have to try, proceed with what you are doing Sir!!!, i'll be watching you.

Manfred.

[trout]

To hold the aluminum tubes I modified the holder used on the Gato to support only one tube. Then made a mold. I will have one tube on each side of the sub-driver (providing it will fit).
To fill the mold made from the master, I used a syringe. Then I thought what if I left the extra resin in there (since I made too much). The resin does not seem to permanently stick to the plastic in the syringe.

The plug did come out. Now, I could turn this, add an o-ring, and have a piston.....hmmm, things rattling in my brain.

[trout]

The hull was panted black and then sprayed with Rustoleum Satin Paprika. This was done purely for my taste. The color is not a harsh red, but it is not the muddy brownish red of the red primer (which I hear is more accurate). After all was dry, I masked the sonar area off and painted it a titanium white using art store acrylic. Let that dry. Then to finish it, I sprayed light coats of the Paprika over the white. It gave just enough of a difference to make the sonar area stand out..

[trout]

A couple of quick updates.
On top of the sub-driver, I added the stronger connector for the sail planes.

The air hoses are temporarily taped, I am going to add some aluminum tubes for the air. The hose seems to get in the way.
Prop was weathered. Sam used gold on his rain gutter regatta boat, so I sprayed the prop at the same time. Then I used light coats of bronze to darken it. Then holding the air brush further away did ultra light coats that put little splatters of gray.

Will seal this with a final clear coat.

[alad61]

Yeah she is a rocket. I've taken David's advice and dialled back the epa on the throttle to 50%. Makes it much more fun in the water.

[trout]

Thanks guys. When I seal that anchor in it will be a bubble of air, so I did not know if it really needed to be addressed or not.

O.K. I am putting on some of the final bits, beefier magnetic couplers for the sail plane, and might do some final painting (not sure if I will until after I ram it into a few things first (as a side note: I was testing the trimming on the sub on one of the times in the tub and gunned it to see the power. The sub tried to launch itself out of the tub like a rocket. This sub is a hoot!)
I have some delays. Right now I am helping my son with his Scout's rain gutter regatta. I am smiling because each time we do this he learns more and more. He understands the concepts of weight and the lighter the better. Last night it was teaching him to make a pattern for the sail.

[alad61]

They don't bit having the extra holes in the maw pieces for water to flow and drain from in the stern helps but isn't critical.

[greenman407]

Wow, thats a Big Dog. I dont believe that the MSW gratings nor the anchor would cause any issues either way.