Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[MFR1964]

Nicely done Tom, as for using aluminum tubes for the SAS air, that will work fine, did the same on my SD, as for sliding stuff i wouldn't use that, the SAS is using lowpressure, the LPB which runs my scope and snorkel, is high pressure, made that with hoses all the way, i suspect that the connections to my aluminum tubes can't handle that kind of pressure.
Making things slide with your resin piston and O ring will work, you simply have to try, proceed with what you are doing Sir!!!, i'll be watching you.

Manfred.

[trout]

Thanks Manfred! The piston and sliding stuff is for something else entirely. It is something I have been working with on paper for awhile now. I just need to build about three more subs and I might have some free time to play.

[trout]

I placed sandpaper with the grit facing up and sanded the base of each tube holder to rough them up.
Putting the tube holders on the sub-driver, I worked out where I wanted the holders to be and initially just used on piece of tape per base to hold it. Tested the location by putting the upper portion of the deck on. It turned out I needed to move them further apart to avoid the foam. Once happy with the location I surround each base with tape.

Removing the base I rough up the polycarbonate tube to give a grip to the RTV rubber.

Place a small amount of the rubber on the base and tube. Then squishing the base down, move it in a slight circular motion to work the rubber to coat the entire area. If some RTV works its way out that is O.K. The tape when removed will take care of that.

Once all are in place let it set for a couple of hours.

Then carefully remove the tape. The rubber has begun to firm up and the base will not move easily, but any rubber on the tape will separate as it is peeled off leaving a clean edge.

The holder not only controls the vinyl tube, but it is raised enough for the velcro band to slip under.

This is not necessary to do this, but for me it looks cleaner and I do not need to wrestle with the tubing as I assemble the hull for sailing. It also sets up the testing of the quick connectors for the air at a later time. I notice that David tapes down the hoses in the instructions pictures and that is another way to do this.

I will let the RTV rubber completely dry before I attempt to connect the hoses.

[trout]

A bit cleaner looking. I am having a heck of a time with static and animal fur. The model is a magnet for the dog and cat fur. I wipe it down and the static just makes it cling right back again. My sail is going for another paint job. Suggestions for removing static?

[alad61]

Now that is neat!! I did something similar with brass tube. But NO where near as sophisticated. Good job mate.

[trout]

Thank you Alec, I do not know about sophisticated, but it works. If you look closely at the photo, the tube holder to the right facing you was broken off the tube by me trying to put the hose on and not letting it completely dry. So it is now taped and drying again. The RTV rubber that has oozed out, I will clean up later.

[Scott T]

Just throw it in the dryer with some of those static cling sheets for a few minutes.:wink:
Or maybe just rub it with one of those sheets. It may also make it smell better.

Scott T

[trout]

I have had suggestions from rub it with wool and ground the sprayer (so a poor man's powder coating) to Scott's throw it in the dryer......The static cling sheet might help if I rub it in the hull and not where I am going to paint. Another idea was to wear a grounding wrist strap, which I have. We will see what works soon - minus the throw it in the dryer, sorry Scott.
I played with a tip I heard about 20+ years ago. I thought it was so cool that it stuck with me and I never had all the components to try it or the right model.
What he used is oil paint thinned with turpenoid and a wash of what I thought was enamel paint thinner.

With the thinner laid down....

The brush that is dipped in the thinned out oil paint is touched to a corner of the scribed recess. It is cool to see it pull the white around. I did notice that I had to wick up some of the thinner. Then applied the thinned oil paint.

It was o.k., The enamel thinner did soften the paint a little (because it is enamel paint). I do not remember if he used the enamel thinner over acrylic paint, but after doing this experiment I believe it probably was.
One square done.

Completed the aft deck.

I used just the thinned oil paint and it wicked around pretty good without the thinner. Looking back, it might have been good to re-scribe some lines in because some of the lines had softened up in the mold pulling run (torpedo doors for one) and other lines filled in with paint. The brush I used should have been even finer (it was a 00), so next time 0000. The 00 even touching the line it would also touch out side the line. While rubbing off the excess of paint and brush dots left a slight film behind (enamel thinner etching the surface). I am going to use a 1200 grit sand paper to remove the film before a clear coat goes over it all.

I did put a lighter gray on the top bow sonar. Have not seen it done on the Scamp pictures I have, but I like the way it looks. I might tone it down a bit. The white in the scribing will probably be made a little less stark too. As far as this technique, that I have waited 20 years to try, meh to cool depending on how sharp the scribing is. This guy did amazing detail work and this worked for him. I will try to use this to figure out where it will work for me and where it won't.

[Peter W]

Tom,

Something I have toyed with that the static boys use ( you probably know this already but here goes again) is Johnssons Floor wax I think in the States it is called Future, over here it was called Klear but they don't sell it here anymore.

Spray it on neat very THINLY and it acts as an excellent sealer and protector against enamels. also good to seal in waterslide decals. It is it's own solvent as well so if you do spary too much you can use it to remove itself. Safe on plastic too. Used it on my Trumpeter Seawolf worked a treat.

Hope this helps and doesn't bore you or repeat what you already know.

Peter

[trout]

Peter,
Doesn't bore me at all! And repetition is good! Was your Trumpeter Seawolf Static or RC? I do know of using Future floor wax. Future, as I remember it, turned a milky white when exposed to water for an extended time, but would return to a clear finish when dry. Understand, I am going from memory and that has proven to be faulty at times (do not let my wife know I admit to this) and formulas change. If you or anyone else knows otherwise, please share. Thank you for bringing it up! Very appropriate discussion!

[Peter W]

Tom,

Seawolf is RC, I don't build them to look at I build them to play with.

The Future was used as a barrier between the Tamiya Acrylics that I painted it with and the decals, the old trick of getting the carrier film to disappear. I then put another load of coats over the decals to seal them, then went over it with Humberol Mattcote ( enamel based type stuff) as I said it worked well I haven't noticed any whitening whatsoever but as the varnish is taking the brunt of the water then I would be surprised if there is any future exsposed.

Seawolf is currently in extended drydock, long story.

Peter

[trout]

You are awesome Peter! That is great news. Thank you so much for the tip and sorry to infer you would do anything other than RC :-)
Peace,
tom

[Peter W]

Tom,

RC subs, have been known to RC the odd target but if subs make me cry I will dabble with static tanks to chill out.

Peter

[trout]

RC Tanks is one area of RC I have not done........yet.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

RC Tanks is one area of RC I have not done........yet.

air-soft equipped r/c tank + cat = much good fun!