Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[trout]

I just noticed today that the battery room end cap has a plug in the center that is not secured (pushed out to show it). I assume it is for those that want to add torpedoes or have some way to exit sub-driver, cool. Not so cool if I did not catch it.


Earlier I saw that portions of one o-ring did not have contact to the Lexan tube. Today I wanted to take care of that. Removed the o-rings by pinching both sides of the end cap and sliding my fingers to the top. At first, nothing seems to be happening, but eventually you get a small hump at the top.

With the o-rings out, the outer most o-ring had contact all the way around albeit thin. So, on this channel I wrapped Teflon tape 1 1/2 times around thinking that would be enough.

Then the innermost o-ring I wrapped 3 1/5 times. Using a sharp X-Acto #11 blade, trimmed the extra tape off.

The innermost o-ring's contact is now great. The outermost o-ring probably can stand a extra wrap or two.

[redboat219]

Great tip on using teflon tape. Thanks.

[alad61]

Tom my end caps on the Skipjack sub driver are almost the exact opposite. To the point they are a PITA to get off, especially after a run where I have had to blow the ballast once or twice to often when fully submerged. Sadly the often murky and weedy water around here can play havoc to a good run...

Btw I am glad the tape worked for you. As I knew it would.:biggrin:

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Tom my end caps on the Skipjack sub driver are almost the exact opposite. To the point they are a PITA to get off, especially after a run where I have had to blow the ballast once or twice to often when fully submerged. Sadly the often murky and weedy water around here can play havoc to a good run...

Btw I am glad the tape worked for you. As I knew it would.:biggrin:

If you do vacuum lock (you pulled such a high vacuum within the SD that the snorkel head-valve locks shut because of the high differental pressure between rubber seat and nipple) the SD you can gently bump the hull down on the work stand -- which should induce the snorkel float assembly to pop off the valve nipple, opening the air-way, letting equalizing air into the cylinder, breaking the vacuum. Or, you can simply depress the forward bulkheads equalization valve (that's why it's there, duh!) to equalize pressure between the inside and outside of the cylinder, making forward bulkhead removal an easy matter.

This is why, once you start a completely submerged blow with the SAS, you want to continue it till the sail broachings and the snorkel head-valve opens -- doing it this way prevents the excessive differentail pressure across the head-valve rubber seat and intake nipple that locks the head-valve shut, even with the snorkel float well above the water.

M

[trout]

Thanks Romel! I have used Teflon tape on three subs so far, Gato, Aluminaut, and 32nd Parallels Type XXIII. Now on the Scamp. It comes in handy. I have had the suggestions of using marine epoxy and put a light coat all around or using thick CA. Someday I will try those suggestions.

David and Alec,
Great information.
How do you know that you have a vacuum lock? Trying to understand, once I surface, and I think the valve opened, but it doesn't, and dive again, what happens? Are there any signs or indications that there is a problem (other than the sub not coming up)?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks Romel! I have used Teflon tape on three subs so far, Gato, Aluminaut, and 32nd Parallels Type XXIII. Now on the Scamp. It comes in handy. I have had the suggestions of using marine epoxy and put a light coat all around or using thick CA. Someday I will try those suggestions.

David and Alec,
Great information.
How do you know that you have a vacuum lock? Trying to understand, once I surface, and I think the valve opened, but it doesn't, and dive again, what happens? Are there any signs or indications that there is a problem (other than the sub not coming up)?

Incomplete blow -- the model has not achieved surfaced waterline.

M

[trout]

Thank you David, I understand now.

[trout]

The tangle of wires begins. I am learning and playing as I go. Trying to make the wtc look clean, neat, and organized is a challenge for me. On this Sub-Driver I am going to play with different ideas. 10 years from now, i will probably look back and think what the heck was I thinking. One of the areas I am going to play with is routing the wires. This is not necessary for wiring up the Sub-Driver. it is just a detour for me.


We just bought some tubing for Sam's aquarium and I thought, scary I know, maybe I could clip a little off and use it.

The wires fit in the vinyl tubing and made a great protection for the wires going through the metal. It worked for the SAS air lines as well.

A little bit cleaner.

These servos have a 28mm base which fit perfectly in the servo tray.

[trout]

I need to order my toggle switch, I see this one on the sub-driver site http://www.sub-driver.com/waterproof-switch.html is this the one with the 1/4" thread (like for the Type VII or 2" sub-driver) or is this the 1/2" (for the Skipjack or 3.5" sub-driver)?
I need to get both, so any help in sourcing if not stocked at sub-driver. Thank you!

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The bigger one can be found at Wal-mart, Lowe's, or any electronics outlet.

M

[greenman407]

Ive also seen them at West Marine. A little pricey though.

[trout]

Thank you both for the tips. There is an Ace hardware store near by. They had the switch and a boot for it!

[trout]

Scout's are now selling popcorn (anybody want some?), so my days are filled. I was able to get a bit more done.
Bundling and soldering.

Cut out a notch for the Dean's style plug to fit into.

Anyone have a Shadow Programmer they want to sell? I cannot find mine.

[trout]

I put a LiPo 11.1v and fired it up. Oh my goodness - the power, it surprised me. Note limit speed to 50% on the radio.

The Bow Closing Plier was used on the Gato (http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...72-Gato/page18) and makes it really easy to bend the wires. This plier is used in jewelry for bending the shank of a ring.

Making careful bends to make the pushrods line up.

Here they are connected. That dog gone safety float valve keeps flopping around, it is beginning to annoy me.

Taking some more of the air hose (hopefully there will be some left for Sam's fish) sliced it down one side.

This now became the wire harness to manage the servo cables. The bundle stuffed by the receiver will be eliminated later.

It also will become the safety belt for the safety float valve. If this silicon will hold, might need to pin it.

[MFR1964]

Neat Tom, i too like my stuff to be as compact as possible on the rearpart, where did you order those bendingpliers?, i can use that plier also for future projects.

Manfred.