Moebius (Revell) Skipjack Build

[greenman407]

Nice and Neat, and functional to boot.

[trout]

Thank you guys.

Manfred,
A google search and you can find them, but this one is a small version (the other one I have is the standard size and would not be practical)
Here is what the standard size looks like:

I am looking to find the exact one, but since it was purchased a quarter century ago, things change. The one I use is made by Vigor (made in Germany) part number is PL-45J
Here is one close to it: http://www.nationaljewelerssupplies.com/p/ETPLR731.html
This one, might be the winner, looks pretty close to mine:



Mark, compared to the Gato (cue slasher movie violin music)

I am liking the look of the Scamps engine room.

[trout]

At first the gap between the dive planes or the rudder and the sub-driver servo pushrods seemed too wide, but in reality not too bad.

CA was used to affix the magnets. I do not know how others install their klik-ons, I placed the first set on (rudder), but I reverse the polarity on the second set of magnets (aft dive planes) so, when attaching the pushrods they will connect only with the proper wtc pushrod. I missed the part about needing to get a 3/16 Dumas connector, but had an old one around.

Here is an area I need to work on. The gap for the SAS inlet and outlets are wider than the piece supplied. I can widen the holes to match. Will work on that then attach using RTV silicon.

Tell me what color do you use for the prop? - I will give it a toning down, but I found gold or bronze, no brass. Gold looked too yellow, and bronze too reddish brown. Suggestions?

Next hurdle pushrod for the sail plane.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Bronze, then speckle it with a tooth-brush loaded with gray paint.

M

[trout]

Thank you, sir.

Held off doing the drive shaft because there are always variances and I wanted to wait until the sub-driver was in place, good thing too.
For my build the aluminum tube needed to be cut 8 7/16" almost 1/4 an inch longer than recommended. There was room in the ends to extend the length, but I like having more of the ends in the tube.
First score the 7/32" aluminum tube with a blade like an X-acto. Then snap the tube were it was scored.

Then I drilled a 1/16" hole for the wire to go through.

Placed a piece of brass wire in the hole drilled out and tap it down on an anvil or steel block. Be careful to make sure the wire at one end is on the anvil and the other end you are hitting with a hammer.

Kept turning it over and worked both sides of the wire. It begins to mushroom out. If necessary you can file some off to make it closer to the tube.

Place the one end in the propeller's Dumas coupler and adjust the other end to fit. Mark the location with a Sharpe pen. Repeat process for other end.

[roedj]

I would like to make just a quick comment at this point. Not only is this simply an outstanding build thread, I am also very grateful that you took the time to rename the pictures so that when stored on my computer they are automatically stored in chronological order. That, Sir, gets you an A+ in my book.

Many thanks,

Dan

[trout]

Dan,
Thank you, that blesses me. Especially that you enjoy it enough to fill your hard drive up.
Peace,
tom

[trout]

Put the upper hull behind the lower and aligned them up. The rib in the upper hull will be my reference for the aft end of the sail pushrod.

Collected and assembled the parts for the bow end of the Klik-on. A 1/16" wire or rod is the shank for the Klik-on and it will go into a 3/16" aluminum tube that has a 1/16" inside diameter.

Placed the bow Klik-on into the aluminum rod (CA'd it in) and tested the fit with aluminum tube attached. I will need to widen the hole a bit to accommodate and put a slight channel under the tube tapering down to the opening that the magnet goes into.

This allowed marking a rough end to the other side of the tube. It also gave me the path I needed to clean up.

An issue I had with aluminum push rods is the flex it has. I wanted the thrust to transfer to the sail plane and not be lost in bowing the tube. I also wanted the pushrod to be removable.

Taking a tube larger than the aluminum tube, I ground a channel into the plastic tube. Then using the X-acto blade cut out the thinned out area and filed it so it was wide enough to accept the aluminum tube.

The tube would snap in, but not slip out. The styrene tube is affixed to the top hull with Bondene like a U with the opening facing opposite of where it is attached.

Then I made a piece that is going to be mounted sideways, like a C. It is placed on a piece of styrene to raise it a little from the hull. Moving the pushrod to the furthest point backward (aft) I put the Klik-on and its mate and cut the tube to make sure there is enough room. Then pushed the pushrod to the most forward point and glued the C mount just ahead of this position.

Now to figure out how to get the connection from the pushrod to the sub-driver. I will work on that later (once I figure out how). Need to get some rest.

[HvyCGN9]

I saw you are using a micro gyros esc? I had not heard of that make before what is it like compared to the Mtroniks?

I will be using a Mtroniks 20amp Viper(came out of my Salvage tug....ordered 2 15ampVipers.....got 1 15A and 1 20A!(in a 15A packet!)...The tug now has a pair of 15A vipers and the 20 was waiting for a project!)(see pic of tug towing an Arleigh Burke in Targets thread..)

Cheers Bruce

[trout]

Bruce,
MicroGyros is an English company. I know several people that use them overseas. Over Christmas he had a special and I thought why not try it. I already use Mtroniks - that is what is in the Gato. I can not say more than that until I get this going in the pond, so we shall see.
Great pics by the way!

[Subculture]

Microgyros is not an English company, it's a Scottish company. For brushed motors, I've not found better.

[trout]

I am sorry for the error. I stand corrected.
What have you found that is better?

[Subculture]

I said I've not found better, ergo, they're the best brushed controllers I know of for marine use. I use them in one or two cars too, although most of them are now brushless, and Mike doesn't make brushless controllers, so I have to look elsewhere for those. I get my brushless controllers from Hobbyking, and have found them to be very good.

[trout]

I must be going crazy, I reread your post and I misunderstood. Two corrections in one day.......Thank you for keeping me honest.

[Subculture]

Stop sniffing the glue!