Converting the Bronco type XXIII to RC

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  • Subculture
    Admiral
    • Feb 2009
    • 2121

    #46
    Originally posted by trout
    What do you use to thin the filler with?
    More resin (polyester) I would think. Polyester fillers are generally a blend of polyester resin, talc and possibly micro balloons in the easier to sand variants, as talc alone tends to produce a rather hard composite.

    Comment

    • He Who Shall Not Be Named
      Moderator
      • Aug 2008
      • 12301

      #47
      Originally posted by trout
      What do you use to thin the filler with?
      A high-quality lacquer thinner. But, not too much. Learned this trick from Mike Caswell -- the master of adhesives and fillers.

      David
      Who is John Galt?

      Comment

      • MFR1964
        Detail Nut of the First Order
        • Sep 2010
        • 1304

        #48
        If the torpedoes are too fat, does that mean we should scrap the styrene torpedo tubes that came with the kit as well? hmmm... I guess if you go with David's weapons rig, it doesn't matter, as the tubes are part of the system... be creative!!!, use what you've got.

        Romel,

        This week that problem will be solved, right now i'm building at it, be patient.
        I went underground

        Comment

        • modelnut
          Lieutenant Commander
          • Jun 2011
          • 140

          #49
          Watching with interest as usual. Sort of like pressing your nose into the bakery window.

          For anyone building this boat, the XXI's and XXIII's had cast steel propellers. http://www.uboatarchive.net/DesignSt...ypeXXI-S44.htm Or, at least, the XXI's did. The XXIII's were next in line and from the same designer. So I think it is a safe bet that they were steel too.

          Not of direct and immediate use. But it is an important detail for the finished boat.

          - Leelan

          Comment

          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
            Moderator
            • Aug 2008
            • 12301

            #50
            Originally posted by MFR1964
            If the torpedoes are too fat, does that mean we should scrap the styrene torpedo tubes that came with the kit as well? hmmm... I guess if you go with David's weapons rig, it doesn't matter, as the tubes are part of the system... be creative!!!, use what you've got.

            Romel,

            This week that problem will be solved, right now i'm building at it, be patient.
            Actually, as the 1/32 and 1/35 weapon will employ the identical breech-block mechanism used on the 1/72 weapon, what I will be doing is grafting on that type brass assembly to the existing kit provided torpedo tube.

            A tight fit between torpedo body and tube is not important. Make-up of the weapons nozzle tube to the breech-block O-ring and positive engagement of the stop-bolt to the warhead of the weapon is.

            Click image for larger version

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            Who is John Galt?

            Comment

            • He Who Shall Not Be Named
              Moderator
              • Aug 2008
              • 12301

              #51
              Originally posted by modelnut
              Watching with interest as usual. Sort of like pressing your nose into the bakery window.

              For anyone building this boat, the XXI's and XXIII's had cast steel propellers. http://www.uboatarchive.net/DesignSt...ypeXXI-S44.htm Or, at least, the XXI's did. The XXIII's were next in line and from the same designer. So I think it is a safe bet that they were steel too.

              Not of direct and immediate use. But it is an important detail for the finished boat.

              - Leelan
              Thanks for the reminder -- the completed, unpainted cast white-metal (Tin-Antimony) propeller will be machined smooth, dunked in vinegar a few minutes, then will be given a flat clear coat to stop oxidation. Good call on that!

              ... and some shots of master work in support of the eventual fittings kit.

              David

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              Last edited by He Who Shall Not Be Named; 03-18-2013, 05:03 PM.
              Who is John Galt?

              Comment

              • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                Moderator
                • Aug 2008
                • 12301

                #52
                Got the attachment gizmo between sail and hull worked out. 3/16" diameter resin rod (sprue from casting work) was bored out and tapped to take 4-40 studs. One was glued at the forward end of the sail, the other was glued at the after end of the engine exhaust muffler fairing -- these became the foundations through which studs were attached and used to jack the sail down tight upon the upper hull.

                After working out the location of the snorkel assembly I removed as much deck under the sail as possible -- the object of the game is to minimize the volume of structure above the waterline; less displacement above, means less ballast tank needed below.

                Did some more work on the fittings kit masters, and laid out what I've done to date out for your inspection.

                Important to build up a lapping plate on the inside upper hull longitudinal seam, or the left and right sections of that part will split on you. Some filler rod in the narrow gap at the stern -- stretched sprue off a bit of the kits parts tree. After all that dried, I put Ellie to work, evening out the edges where the upper hull meets the lower hull.

                And worked out the snorkel unique to this particular boat.

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                Who is John Galt?

                Comment

                • goshawk823
                  Lieutenant Commander
                  • Oct 2010
                  • 211

                  #53
                  Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
                  Got the attachment gizmo between sail and hull worked out. 3/16" diameter resin rod (sprue from casting work) was bored out and tapped to take 4-40 studs. One was glued at the forward end of the sail, the other was glued at the after end of the engine exhaust muffler fairing -- these became the foundations through which studs were attached and used to jack the sail down tight upon the upper hull.

                  After working out the location of the snorkel assembly I removed as much deck under the sail as possible -- the object of the game is to minimize the volume of structure above the waterline; less displacement above, means less ballast tank needed below.

                  Did some more work on the fittings kit masters, and laid out what I've done to date out for your inspection.

                  Important to build up a lapping plate on the inside upper hull longitudinal seam, or the left and right sections of that part will split on you. Some filler rod in the narrow gap at the stern -- stretched sprue off a bit of the kits parts tree. After all that dried, I put Ellie to work, evening out the edges where the upper hull meets the lower hull.

                  And worked out the snorkel unique to this particular boat.

                  [ATTACH=CONFIG]19327[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19328[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19329[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19330[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19331[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19332[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19333[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]19334[/ATTACH]
                  Looks great David. Really coming along.
                  The top of the snorkel; is that some sort of porous material that allows air to enter the tube, but protects the tube from intaking schmutz? (mud, algae, etc.)?
                  -Sam

                  Comment

                  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                    Moderator
                    • Aug 2008
                    • 12301

                    #54
                    No, Sam. It's a solid resin block that has been ported to direct air from the inlet nipple, through the block channel, and into the top of the brass snorkel induction tube.

                    I've been operating the SAS type system, and all variants employ the same type induction valve, and have yet to pick up crap big enough to cause a flooded induction line .... famous last words!
                    Who is John Galt?

                    Comment

                    • trout
                      Admiral
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 3547

                      #55
                      David,
                      How tough would it be to create a plastic mesh cage to filter particles, if that is a concern?
                      If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                      Comment

                      • MFR1964
                        Detail Nut of the First Order
                        • Sep 2010
                        • 1304

                        #56


                        This is the battery hatch of the type XXIII, since i use the vertical split, i had a other use for this hatch.



                        You can lift it up, this is the first fase of opening the hatch.



                        One side has static pins, the other side a hidden hinge, so you can swiffle the hatch open far enough for free access.



                        Allready adapted the SD with the power switch on top, which i can reach with a finger through the opening, one arrow dodged.


                        Manfred.
                        I went underground

                        Comment

                        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                          Moderator
                          • Aug 2008
                          • 12301

                          #57
                          Originally posted by trout
                          David,
                          How tough would it be to create a plastic mesh cage to filter particles, if that is a concern?
                          The entire cage would have to contain the entire snorkel mechanism to be effective. I have not, and have yet to get a fouled snorkel inlet due to crap in the water.

                          David
                          Last edited by Outrider; 03-22-2013, 10:39 PM.
                          Who is John Galt?

                          Comment

                          • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                            Moderator
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 12301

                            #58
                            Oh, oh .... Manfred's on the March! I better get to it.
                            Who is John Galt?

                            Comment

                            • trout
                              Admiral
                              • Jul 2011
                              • 3547

                              #59
                              Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
                              The entire cage would have to contain the entire snorkel mechanism to be effective. I have not, and have yet to get a fouled snorkel inlet do to crap in the water.

                              David
                              Agreed. Probably not necessary.
                              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

                              Comment

                              • He Who Shall Not Be Named
                                Moderator
                                • Aug 2008
                                • 12301

                                #60
                                My apology, Manfred.

                                I just realized you started this thread. I lost track of that and posted my stuff here. Just letting you know I caught that and will post my work on this fine kit in another thread. Sorry about that pal ... I hate it when people step on my toes, and I want to assure you this was an over-sight on my part, not an intentional interruption of your good work.

                                David
                                Who is John Galt?

                                Comment

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