Continuing/finishing (?) a Revell 1/72 type VIIC from another user

[redboat219]

What type of glue did you use? If you used CA maybe you could try some superglue remover although I don't have any knowledge as to their effect on resin or styrene parts.

Btw, I've had success removing cured CA by soaking it in isopropyl alcohol (70% rubbing alcohol) which is safe on styrene.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

With a stern plane in each hand, twist them at the same time, but in opposite directions. This very high torque on the square sectioned brass rod (operating shaft) will flex it, eventually fracturing the CA bond between it and one of the planes, permitting you to pull the operating shaft away from the skeg and out of the bell-crank, freeing it for the hammer work.

David

[vital.spark]

David, If I remember correctly, the stern planes had square holes molded in?

Myron

[Reckless]

I didn't glue it... I bought it all assembled slowly making adjustments and such to get it waterbound.

I'll give it a shot this weekend Dave... let you know if it simply came apart or if I ended up having to rebuild the tail of my sub.. LOL

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David, If I remember correctly, the stern planes had square holes molded in?

Myron

Initially, yes. But I found people were happier with tight fitting round holes as the bore of the stern planes. Current fittings kits have stern planes with round bores, not square.

David

[vital.spark]

So Reckless doesn't know what he has? If he can't get them apart without damageing the hull I suggest he cuts one side off with a pair of dykes, puls the other side out and you send him 2 new planes and a shft?,

Myron

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

You got it, Myron. Whatever you need, Reckless, let me know. Along with your mailing address.

David

[Reckless]

if I can't get it apart without snapping the tail or the planes I'll cut the brass and visit the LHS and just redo the brass, cheaper and faster for all involved ;)

now if I can't get the SD to seal up (the valve isn't going "poof" when I close it up and push the valve, I'm guessing its not sealing it hasn't seen a proper test yet) I'll definately be talking with you David.

thanks

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Doing the blow-in-a-hose-connected-to-the-equalization-body thing as the unit is held underwater will identify the source of air-leaks through bubbles. Keep me informed, Reckless.

David

[trout]

Reckless,
Did you put silicon or anything on the end cap seals? I will assume so. I do not remember, you have all your pushrods in and put silicon or your proper oil of choice on the seals? I ask these questions because recently I did not hear the hiss - it turned out to be a seal and some case bubbles. I removed the valve stem from the end cap, stretched some vinyl tubing over it and did a pressure check. That may help you find any leaks.
Peace,
Tom

David beat me to it...
Here is a link to the test I did on the wtc http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...art-duex/page3 Post #30

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It's all good, Tom.

David

[Reckless]

I didn't do anything building the SD .. again I received it assembled as is, same as the model. I only just powered it up a few days ago. all I've done is index the SD to the model, and tweaked the manifold for the Snort on top of SD to clear the deck and get the tube into the sail without kinking

once I get the mechanical sorted out, I'll move onto making sure the SD doesn't sink the boat before I tell it to and fry electronics LOL ... I'll grab an extra stem valve from work too, just incase.

[Reckless]

success! .... sorta... I got the stern planes apart... I grabbed em with my mechanic ham fists said "puny plastic boat HULK SMASH!" and yanked em apart ....

well not exactly .. but that's what it felt like once the stern planes finally let go in spring loaded fashion as things that are barely moving seem to always do at the end.

so the glue is drying on the poor little supporting arm on one side that snapped off in fabulous fashion ... and the glue is also drying on the stern plane that 'somehow' developed fractures while I was repositioning the square tube inside it so that the bellcrank sat in a better position and get better sweep angles of the planes

hoping this weekend to get the initial foam in the hull and move onto the tweaking/checking the SD in prep for first bathtime... I mean ... initial testing in the domestic test tank.

[Reckless]

before I go too nuts... what kinda sweep are all of the control surfaces supposed to have?

my bow planes and rudder seem to have a TON of movement .. and my stern planes nearly none

if I look at my attach points for the stern of the boat ... I have it rigged as: left - bow, center - rudder, right - stern

have I got this right? does it matter? ... the far right servo doesn't seem to have any less movement ... but when I hook up a control rod.. it does...

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

35-degrees from center is the maximum effective throw. You don't need much stern plane, ten-degree up and ten-degree down is plenty.

Sounds like your linkages down-stream of the SD are sloppy. Tighten things up in there.

David