Revell Gato 1/72 - Newbie no more Part duex

[MFR1964]

Tom,

In a way this proves to me that your sub is a child to us, never expected that changing tooths was possible, the first signs of getting mature.

[trout]

@David - thank you. Your generosity and helpfulness set you apart from the pack.

@Manfred - I worry if she will need braces or need wisdom teeth pulled! The one that is really maturing is me. Thank you for the laugh!

[trout]

I need help on painting/weathering the sub.
I have looked at the cabal reports - yet when I look at actual photos they are usually after a refit or at such a distance you could not tell any details even if a lamprey was sticking to her side. I did find one that had the white line near the waterline.
Let me ask - Anti-fouling was black (some have painted a gray band then black or red - not sure either is accurate for late war) Did the fleet subs of that time get the same amount of scum/algae/ as the ones that are depicted in the cabal reports? If so, how deep did the growth taper to? and would it have been as green as the Iranian sub showed that Mark posted in daily subs? http://forum.sub-driver.com/attachme...9&d=1341425709
The intension is to use the toothpaste on the bottom for the mottled look. Was there much rust under the water line? If so is it more a general patch and not streaked?
Rust - what colors (colours for our proper English friends) do you use for rust?
It was many moons ago that I did a lot of painting and I am having a loss in confidence and memory. Your help is appreciated.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

During the war years almost all the American boats had a black anti-foul coat. By mid-patrol the below waterline area would be a mottled dark gray as the salt water bleached the paint, the mottling effect (at leas three cycles) with tooth past is done with a dark gray, cut with clear-coat to reduce its opacity. First coat goes on after a well spaced amount of tooth-paste mask; you wait for that to dry, lay down a bit more tooth-paste mottling mask and mist coat some more dark gray; finally, you mottle mask a bit more and hit the below waterline areas again with a misting of the dark gray.

Then, move on to the scum-line, from waterline down. Chalk or Artist crayon a rough band of white at the waterline and pull it down with a rag or texture stick. Then spray on a very light band of green from just below the white to about 1/2" down from the water line.

No rust!, No vertical or horizontal streaking!



Play with and understand the properties, advantages, and liabilities, of the different mediums and tools: Exploit artists oils ability to blend and feather and streak; use the water soluble acrylic paints to produce hard-edges and washes; and employ the robust, high opacity car paints for the major color foundation. Experiment with house-brushes, rollers, sponges, texture pads, artists pencils rags, cotton balls, crayons, even chalks.

Find a hull you're not using right now and go to town -- make it your college from which you will earn a degree in Fine Weathering. Then you will be a Frig'n Weathering God .... just like me!

[trout]

Thank you.
What colors are used for rust?
When you put that excellent gray wash and streaking on the hull, what tips would you offer on that?
Peace,
Tom

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thank you.
What colors are used for rust?
When you put that excellent gray wash and streaking on the hull, what tips would you offer on that?
Peace,
Tom

Mix red and yellow to get rust. Steal the Wife's make-up kit. Lots of good oil based finely ground pigments in that kit. No rust below waterline, and represent it very, very lightly! Make a small paper cut-out of a man to the scale of your model. Put him next to an area you will weather. Does the size of the rust patch/bird-poop run/grease stain/deck spill look appropriate for the size of your pulp crewman? Think scale, and think gravity!

Think like gravity when doing the streaking. Streaking is the result of rain water catching oil and other crap and carrying it down the sides of the upper rudder, sail, and hull -- all surfaces that have a vertical component to them and are above waterline.

The initial streaking is heavy handed and done with a dark to light gray dry-brushed onto the model parts with a big-ass brush -- sometimes a 4" paint-brush, no less! Fast, purposeful downward strokes hitting the parts just hard enough to get just a bit of paint onto the model and streaked down. The medium is water soluble acrylic. The more subtle, translucent streaking (representing engine exhaust stains, access cover-door run-off, and bird-****) is done with oils and a softer brush.





Look this site over:

http://www.modelboatmayhem.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=38072.0

[trout]

This is some good stuff! Thank you. Ha, pulp crewman! Great humor! But good idea!
yellow + red = orange got it.
i have looked through tons of photos and the times I have seen streaking below the waterline are the subs left out of the water or on permanent display.
I had followed model boat mayhem forum's posting including when they separated your portion onto a new topic. The screen over the sub reminds me of fish carving. There is a similar technique using a veil material to imitate scales. It is pretty cool all the experiences we have that can come into building our sub.
any other tips you would like to share that we may not have covered?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Apparently I ****ed some people off over at Model Boat Mayhem. Seems you're not supposed to take stupid people to task over there. Other than that, its a very high signal-to-noise ratio over there; a damned fine site.

I got a tip for you: Practice. Practice. Practice!

[alad61]

What David does in weathering is true artistry. As for any solid scum line as such would the boats have been in port long enough to collect such a strong effect? Not being sure I decided to leave mine as a faint bleach line. As with my Nautilus and Gato I gave some of the vertical streaks near or at the water line a flick backwards as if they were washed by forward wave motion. Apart from that my only real advice is decide how you want it to look and practice it on scrap card, tube, paper etc and write down or record what you did with each test piece. What David says, practice, practice & practice... Trust me it helps when you finally get a look and system you like or it was the one you did four samples back... If you are going to use artists chalks/crayons then lay your base colours in a flat finish any gloss or sheen just makes it harder for the dust/powder t stay put. I for one will practice the toothpaste thing David does. I'm not sure how accurate it was but I ran a thin wash of tamiya smoke through the airbrush on a lot of the weld lines, around the hatches, limber holes etc before I dry brushed over them. I know there are places on my gato that could be better as most of my model hobby is based around sci-fi fantasy stuff and the gato is only my second military piece after a 1/24th Mk1 Spitfire. The hardest thing I found was a lack of good colour referance material to work from which is why I based my colours around what was in the instructions. Tom, I just have to say if you take as much care and attention to detail as you did with the lights and rails etc then you will do well and it will be a credit. So Good luck mate.

[trout]

@ David - That posting was getting a little annoying with some of the dribble going on, you brought it to focus, I thought....C'est la vie. O.K. I will practice and Thank you.

@ Alec - Thank you. I appreciate your kind words and advice.

I will take both of your suggestions and tips to heart.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

One man's 'focus' is another man's 'trolling'.

David

[trout]

I have been quiet for a spell, not because of slacking off, been working on paint.
A big thank you to David for the new gear for the WTC! You ROCK!
Here is what I have done so far......

David, I would like your critique.

[Scott T]

What a rust bucket! Complement intended.

Scott T

[trout]

Thanks, I think! LOL
I really did not want to make it too bad (worn out), because the US Subs were not rust buckets (for the most part). I have found a few pictures were they were REALLY marked up and tattered looking. That maybe because most pictures were taken either new or after a refit. I may have gotten carried away. Still struggling with it.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I have been quiet for a spell, not because of slacking off, been working on paint.
A big thank you to David for the new gear for the WTC! You ROCK!
Here is what I have done so far......
[ATTACH=CONFIG]14394[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]14395[/ATTACH]
David, I would like your critique.

Good. Very good! Less is more; you did not over-extend the rust runs, and the vertical streaking is just percept able. A most credible presentation. I hate you!

And your dark wash brought the small-arms (if a 40 and 20 can be described as 'small-arms') out beautifully.

David