Bronco Type XXIII by Ken

[redboat219]

Another valid way Romel.

I've used the square tubing this way before and it works great for me, so I went with it.

Any problems with the tubes seizing due to corrosion?

[biggsgolf]

Looking good Ken, I love my Type XXIII!

[Ken_NJ]

Another valid way Romel.

I've used the square tubing this way before and it works great for me, so I went with it.

[redboat219]

Rudder

The rudder will have a square brass tube inserted at the pivot point. This will be called the outer tube. The little nubs were removed for both pieces.



And where those nubs were, an opening was filed for the outer tube.



The outer tube extends the length of the rudder. Here it was CA'd in place. I added styrene spacers as support and glue points.



On one end of the rudder, two 1/8 holes were drilled.



Some epoxy was dripped into each half. I put some styrene solvent on the perimeter of the rudder edges to glue the two pieces together.



Clamped together. Using the solvent the way I did was not much help. They didn't join well enough and some of the epoxy leaked out. Noted for the future!!!



Once they were clamped enough I started adding drops in one of the holes. The other hole was for air to escape as epoxy was added. I sometimes used a pin in the fill hole to make sure the epoxy kept flowing down.



The next day. The rudder is cleaned up and sanded. The holes need to be filled so they are flush.



Used CA and baking soda to top off the holes. They will be further finished when I am doing body work with Nitro-San.

The idea I had in mind was to apply mold release to the square tube and pour resin inside the rudder cavity. Once the resin sets push the tube out leaving a square cavity to receive the square rudder post.

[Ken_NJ]

Putting it al together








Here you can see the assembled shaft.



The shaft assembly can be inserted in the top hole, then inserted into the rudder, then inserted into the lower bearing.



The 2-56 bolt is then inserted into the mounting plate to hold it all in place. The styrene that the mounting plate sits on, the bolt hole was tapped prior to gluing in place. The mounting plate/upper bearing is not soldered so that allows the shaft to freely rotate. The arm for the push rod and the inner square tube are/will be soldered to the shaft. And the square inner tube will force the rudder to move being that it resides in the square outer tube mounted in the rudder.

The washer under the bolt does a few things. It applies better pressure to the mounting plate. And it shortens up the bolt so it does not drive into the hull styrene once it bottoms out. The SS washer was scratched up and CA'd to the SS bolt. That way I'm not fumbling while inserting the bolt and having things drop off where they should not be.



And now I have a removable rudder for when I start painting and for service. The rudder feels solid now that it is filled with epoxy. The push rod will not be as it appears in the picture here. Once the SD driver is installed I'll get back to the push rod.




Next up, after returning from Subfest 24 Redux...

Aft dive planes
Forward dive planes
And figuring out how to have the torpedo doors open & close

[Ken_NJ]

Lower rudder foundation

A few pieces of styrene were glued together and this hunk was shaped to fit. A hole was drilled to accept a brass tube which is the power rudder bearing.






The the lower bearing is glued in place using the shaft as an alignment tool.

[Ken_NJ]

Rudder shaft assembly

The square tubes and rods I am using are imperial. The rudder shaft or pin I am using is metric. The pin was the best size I had to fit in the inner tube. I think the pin is .4mm. I had to ream out the inner square tube in order for the rod/pin to go in. That is what I am doing here.





Here is a breakdown of the rudder.
The mounting plate has a section of reamed tubing soldered to it. This is the upper rudder bearing.
The rudder shaft has two spacers soldered at the top under the rudder arm. These give room for the push rod.
The inner square tube slides over the shaft. It is a friction fit, for now.

The shaft slides into the upper bearing, then the inner tube slides on the shaft sandwiching in the upper bearing plate. With the friction fit, everything is solid. At some point I may solder the inner tube to the shaft at the bottom with a tiny spot of solder. Leaving that for the future.




Here is how it all goes together. The inner square tube will insert into the rudders outer square tube. The square tube provides the action that is need to turn the rudder. There is no set screw needed to secure the rudder to the shaft. AND, the part I like, I can easily remove the rudder at any time for service.

[Ken_NJ]

Rudder

The rudder will have a square brass tube inserted at the pivot point. This will be called the outer tube. The little nubs were removed for both pieces.



And where those nubs were, an opening was filed for the outer tube.



The outer tube extends the length of the rudder. Here it was CA'd in place. I added styrene spacers as support and glue points.



On one end of the rudder, two 1/8 holes were drilled.



Some epoxy was dripped into each half. I put some styrene solvent on the perimeter of the rudder edges to glue the two pieces together.



Clamped together. Using the solvent the way I did was not much help. They didn't join well enough and some of the epoxy leaked out. Noted for the future!!!



Once they were clamped enough I started adding drops in one of the holes. The other hole was for air to escape as epoxy was added. I sometimes used a pin in the fill hole to make sure the epoxy kept flowing down.



The next day. The rudder is cleaned up and sanded. The holes need to be filled so they are flush.



Used CA and baking soda to top off the holes. They will be further finished when I am doing body work with Nitro-San.

[Ken_NJ]

The rudder skeg hatch removal.

Getting to actual work.

Clamped the hull halves together for this part. Clamps and rubber bands.



Styrene solvent was used to glue ONLY the section where the rudder access hatch is.



The weapon of choice. The backside of a #11 Exacto blade. Practicing on scrap styrene.



Cutting will be guided by using the engraved slot.



Cutting begins with the sharp edge of the blade to exaggerate the depth of the slot. Then the blade was flipped to use the backside to complete the cut.



For the 'topside' of the cut, better to reorient the work piece.



The Exacto blade came out with a 20 thousandths cut.



See! Proof!



Completed opening. Was thinker then I expected. It took about 35 minutes to cut this access hatch out.






Cleaned up. Note the hole provided for the rudder.



Ohh, ahhhh. Success! Any cleanup will be done later when the hull halves are joined.



David's work on this section...

https://forum.rc-sub.com/forum/general-topics/135225-today-s-work/page69#post158856:~:text=Tweet-,%231024,-02%2D04%2D2022

[Ken_NJ]

Batteries are not connected until running the boat and disconnected after. So then the Viper 15 will be fine. Thanks Andy.

Looked at my Skipjack, 3s Lipo, brushed motor and Viper Marine 15. Again the 15 will be fine.

eBay has a Marine 20 the next state north of me so should be here by the weekend. And I have the 1060 here as well. All good now!

[Subculture]

When they say not Lipo compatible they simply mean there are no built in functions to prevent low discharge of the pack.

[Ken_NJ]

I bought one of those 1060's to try on a surface boat. Will try it out and see. Thanks.

[neitosub]

Use a HobbyWing 1060, it's a modern brushed ESC perfectly suited to running 2-3S LiPOs.

[MFR1964]

Mail is send

Manfred

[MFR1964]

Ken, i digged out the archives, if you want i have a Pdf about the XXIII, if you want it, give me your mailadress by PM

Manfred.