GATO! (It has begun)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David:

Thanks again for your reply! So, I think i'm getting it... the ChromaColor and CromaClear do the same stuff (which is protect the colors that one has applied to the model)?

So, with my model (which i will be doing weathering on as well) I'll need the following correct?

1) primer and lacquer you suggested (dupont stuff).
2) ChromaClear with the ChromaSystem Basemaker (7175S) ... what product do i need to mix with the ChromaCleer to flatten it (or is that part of the mechanics of the Basemaker besides hardening?
3) Other soluable acyrlics, oil pants, pastel chalks, big boy crayons, etc for my basic painting and weathering.

Then these are the steps i'd go by?

1) primer obviously
2) Apply basic colors (color scheme)
3) Apply weathering (if wanted)
4) Apply ChromaClear (for flattening and sealing)

Is that correct?

Also, this is what i'm thinking about having my model look like (weathering and possible color wise). http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gall.../mg-index.html Any tips on colors i should pick up to achieve this type of weathering (like are there some favorites people like to use for best looking rust/fading/greening of copper/brass/etc)

No. ChromaColor is just that, color paint. ChromaClear is the clear coat. Both are two-part polyurethane chemistries, but different systems, you can't mix the two; they go down separately. I use ChromaColor for the basic 'factory fresh' colors of the model, I then use other systems (air-dry acrylic, oil, washes, oxidizing, chalks, inks, carbon pencil, and crayons for weathering effects). The very last coating to hit the model is one or more clear coats.

1) Yes
2) The flattening agent is a separate container (have oxygen available when they announce the cost)
3) you betcha! And practice your weathering techniques on an old discarded model -- play with it, have fun. It's big-boy finger-painting!

1) Yes. Prim, which identifies the dings, divots, and scratches which you'll address with filler and/or putty, then prim again, keeping at that cycle till the surface is flawless (yeah ... right!)
2) Bingo
4) You got it

Get these in oil, water-soluble acrylic and crayon: Burnt Umber, the primary colors, white, black. And this stuff, http://www.ugp.com.au/UGP_Rust%20Paint.html It's actual RUST! slicker than snot! I've used it on the Disney NAUTILUS and it works like gang-busters. Bob Martin (Mr. NAUTILUS next to Scott Brodeen) put me onto this medium. Thanks, Bob!

Here's the result of using the 'rusting' paint:






Go get 'em, Tiger!

[matthewnimmo]

Thanks again David on all the help!:) So, i'll post up some pictures tomorrow (just was too busy at work to do it). I'll call the weekend "the weekend of CA and recovery" as i had to use so much CA either to fill in spots that i carved too much away on or to fill in drill holes so that i can try a different alignment for drilling (umm yeah, my stern berrings i made for the rudder were causing a nice bind in the rod ... so i need to redo that entire portion (its much better now).

So, I picked up my primer and lacquer today; I should be able to pickle prime my white metals now and finish up that portion. BUT, the guy didn't have Nason 421-23 so he sold me the 422-23 after i told him what i was doing with it. Says that the stuff is pretty similar except that its a lot thinner and shouldn't even need cutting with lacquer to fit through the airbrush and it has a sealant built into the product .... so i'm hoping the stuff works the same for what i need it to do? my only concern is with the sealant aspect of it....while that screw with me as i'm trying to (prime/putty/pickle & repeat) on the white metals? My inital thought says no....but thought i'd pose the question.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It'll be fine. He sold you good stuff.

David

[matthewnimmo]

Thanks David! Oh, btw, i got looking into that rust link you sent. I found this as well; but they are based out of Texas (little closer than the other place). You can get different metal paints along with the patinas for your "rustings/greenings/etc"

1) http://www.shop.brickintheyard.com/M...-8-Oz-MC-B.htm - Online store
2) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T52OZZXZVYo - youtube demo of the stuff (guy is rusting drywall LOL).

Thought on this stuff anyone?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Neat! Thanks.

David

[matthewnimmo]

Ok, so reviewing my photos ... i really didn't have a lot to show LOL as most of my time this weekend was dedicated to fixing minor mistakes with the rudder. But, ultimately; I did managed to do the following:

1) prepared both the stern tubes and propeller cones
2) removed the skag piece (and if you noticed I didn't glue the entire piece to one side of the stern before removing. Was easier for me this way (well i say that now lol). Was cut at an angle because i'm retarded and didn't square of the cutline before hand; but it will serve its purpose. Also, if you noticed the build up of CA on part of the skag; well that's because of the mis-alignment i had with the rudder and such....thought it would be brilliant to remove some material from that portion of the skag so the rudder would rub at the angle it was at. Ultimately i had to redrill the holes in the barrings used to support the rudder for better alignment; thus not needing to have that material removed in the first place.

Some interesting notes: I'm a pro at CA and baking soda now ... lol.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

It's a start

[matthewnimmo]

Ok, so over the weekend i got a lot more done on the build. I would have had more and would have uploaded these earlier; but i've been pretty sick (still not feeling well). I've managed to acid the white metals, primer them, fill them, sand, acid, primer, fill, etc...etc. Furthermore i've managed to install one side of the stern tubes along with the strut for the propeller shaft ... even after filing/sanding/etc the CA makes it look crappy on the model; but i'm assuming the primer and paint will cover that up nicely:)

[matthewnimmo]

Ok...so curious question. I just finished the other side of the stern and i used the same propeller and shaft for fitting the components in place before applying CA. Clearance was perfect.....BUT, when i decided to try both shafts and propellers i noticed that the other propeller now hits the side of the hull?? i'm thinking what is going on. Perhaps this is just my ignorance of these props, but it seems one is slightly larger than the other and they both have exact opposite pitches (even if i turn the other upside down lol) .... is that normal?

Thanks,

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

No. It's my error. That one prop is a bit too much in diameter. Trim it down. The fix is on my 'to do' list.

David

[matthewnimmo]

ok cool....but them having exact opposite pitches is normal right?

[vital.spark]

That's correct. Looking at a stern on view, the right hand prop runs clockwise and the left runs counter.

[Reckless]

yeah the 2 motors spin in opposite directions so the model doesn't torque to one side.. and turns left and right the same


not as appearant in the subs *atleast until you go under I would imagine) .. on my larger 40inch PT boat with both props spinning the same direction... it will carve cornering 1 way .. so hard that the deck nearly submerges (one prop comes outta the water before the deck goes under) ... the other way turning it barely leans and is over twice the turning radius

[matthewnimmo]

You answered my next question already...."why" lol ... now that makes sense. So if I'm looking at the backend of the sturn which prop goes on which side? is there a good picture somewhere to reference

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Looking forward: right-hand pitch starboard, left-hand pitch to port.

The phenomena Reckless described is, 'propeller walking'. When looking forward the propeller will produce an athwart ship force that is in the direction the propeller would take if it was on the ground, turning as a wheel. A consequence of the static pressure differential between upper tip and lower tip. That athwart ship force, at the stern, translates to a yawing force on the vehicle. On single or odd-numbered propeller equipped boats (with a common throttle), a good Coxswain will capitalize on the 'walking' effect when in tight situations (like making up to a tight pier slip).

David