Welcome to our forums. For the best in R/C submarine kits, components and accessories, be sure to visit the Nautilus Drydocks
If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Oh Lordy those props look good. Way more pitch on the newer one? I've revised my original plan to go with the shorter, contra rotating version in favour of the larger, 10' foot version. Its looks so radical that I just can't resist it. I also found a place that sells 1mm square ceramic files. Here: http://www.ottofrei.com/Ceramic-Fibe...llar-1mm-x-1mm Looks like I'll be able to file out those little drain holes after all, which is lucky because nothing else worked. Incidently the same crowd used tio make a 1 x 1 mm steel needle file that sold for $67.00 a pop. Strangely they have discontinued it!
Thanks, Scott, they're shaping up nicely. Yeah, more pitch -- more like what is observed in the photos of the real thing.
I found out what I did wrong on the first attempt: when I positioned the first blade to the hub I used the wrong radius point wedge to angle the blade to the hub. What a dumb-ass!
The replacement wheel has the correct pitch. People may ask why so much more pitch to the after propeller than the one ahead of it. It's because the swirl from the forward propeller presents a lower effective angle of attack flow to the after propeller. So, the after propeller has to have a substantially higher blade angle in order to act like a propeller which has the same pitch as the one ahead of it. The object of the game is to have both propellers of equal relative pitch.
I'm with you, Scott. I'm going with that science-fiction looking original ten-foot spacing of the two wheels. Did it with Skip's 1/60 ALBACORE, might as well do it on your 1/96 ALBACORE:
Thanks for the tip on those ceramic square-files. Neat!
So how do you turn a dome like the hatches are? I got one ugly chatter marked piece then I tried.
It's all about a tight head-stock, tool-holder, and tail-stock; RPM's; feed speed; and tool height above/below center. There are charts for materials to guide you as to feed-speed, but I find experience to be the best teacher here.
If things chatter, change the chucks RPM. If it keeps up, reduce your feed speed. If you still can't get away from resonance chatter … take up knitting!
Wow! How on earth did you bend that wire so accurately? Those hatches look great. And in other news; the resin has finally arrived. I'll go and pick it up tomorrow. Hurrah!
Wow! How on earth did you bend that wire so accurately? Those hatches look great. And in other news; the resin has finally arrived. I'll go and pick it up tomorrow. Hurrah!
I assume you mean the spiral-wound 'hatch spring'? If so: I simply wrapped some copper wire around a small diameter mandrel. Nothing to it.
This is the first production hull for the Albacore. The gel coat is made by a company here in Australia called Technirez and I have to say that it really works. Who would have thought that using correct tools, correctly would result in a better job!
Comment