1/96 Albacore (after Phase III coversion 1961)
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Well yes.....but no. There isn't enough room in the arse of this thing to allow much of a dog bone connection to anything. I didn't show it in the photographs but the two driven shafts line up perfectly with the output shafts of the SD. Two pieces of silicon tube will make the connection both simple, direct and noise free. No room for a wet motor either unfortunately although I did consider using a tandem out rigger (but then I realised that I sent the only one I had to YOU!) Helicopters rule - wings are for faries! -
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DavidLeave a comment:
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Maybe i am wrong, but isnt there still actio=reactio. Would not the engine disable itself with such an arrangement? And how would one attach it to the hull?Leave a comment:
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DavidLeave a comment:
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Why all the mechanics? Why don't you take a slow spinning brushless motor and connect the inner schaft to the shaft of the motor and the outer shaft to the motor housing? Inherently momentum-free.....Leave a comment:
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its raining up here today ans so there was a bit of time for a play in the shed. The Albacore will need some form of gearbox and I have experimented with three or four differend designs over the last few years. All of those old designs took a single engine input and split it into contra rotating, co-axial shafts. They all worked but there was a lot of friction and they all suffered when immerced in water. This time I am going to use a twin engine SD; the one that I use in the Zulu and make a simpler twin input design. Like this;
The props that David is making will have a 1/8" bore. I'm using a 3mm outer shaft and a 2mm inner shaft. The simple solution to this mismatch was to solder a sleve onto the outer shaft to bring it up to 3.2mm where it will carry the forward prop. While I was at it I added a .8mm round key. I'll cut a small keyway in the bore of that prop when I get ahold of it so that it slides onto the sleve and the key locks it in place. The inner shaft was a bit easier. I took a piece of 1/8" stainless tube and bored most of it out to 2mm. I then cut an M2 thread into the last 1/4" so that I can screw the rear prop onto it.
KISS, you moron!
Inner shaft directly driven by one motor, the outer shaft driven by a gear that girdles it which is driven by a gear of like diameter by the other motor. Done! A sloppy fit between those gears mitigates water-hammer effects.
KISS, damit! …. KISS
You people!
David
The HorribleLeave a comment:
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its raining up here today ans so there was a bit of time for a play in the shed. The Albacore will need some form of gearbox and I have experimented with three or four differend designs over the last few years. All of those old designs took a single engine input and split it into contra rotating, co-axial shafts. They all worked but there was a lot of friction and they all suffered when immerced in water. This time I am going to use a twin engine SD; the one that I use in the Zulu and make a simpler twin input design. Like this;
The props that David is making will have a 1/8" bore. I'm using a 3mm outer shaft and a 2mm inner shaft. The simple solution to this mismatch was to solder a sleve onto the outer shaft to bring it up to 3.2mm where it will carry the forward prop. While I was at it I added a .8mm round key. I'll cut a small keyway in the bore of that prop when I get ahold of it so that it slides onto the sleve and the key locks it in place. The inner shaft was a bit easier. I took a piece of 1/8" stainless tube and bored most of it out to 2mm. I then cut an M2 thread into the last 1/4" so that I can screw the rear prop onto it.
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Its great stuff. Technirez thyxotic blue gelcoat; R2529 resin and H2429 hardner. Its compatable with West System epoxy too. You can order it through Fiberglass Australia.Leave a comment:
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Hi Scott,
i am am so jealous, your parts pop out, pristine, DARN YOU!! could you give me more details of this Queensland mob. What is the exact product. Do tell......
David HLeave a comment:
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This is the first production hull for the Albacore. The gel coat is made by a company here in Australia called Technirez and I have to say that it really works. Who would have thought that using correct tools, correctly would result in a better job!
And one of both the Beluga and Albacore together.
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