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1/96 Albacore (after Phase III coversion 1961)

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  • HardRock
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named View Post

    No doubt you're a helicopter jockey -- all that complexity for a gear-box!

    KISS, you moron!

    Inner shaft directly driven by one motor, the outer shaft driven by a gear that girdles it which is driven by a gear of like diameter by the other motor. Done! A sloppy fit between those gears mitigates water-hammer effects.

    KISS, damit! …. KISS

    You people!

    David
    The Horrible
    Well yes.....but no. There isn't enough room in the arse of this thing to allow much of a dog bone connection to anything. I didn't show it in the photographs but the two driven shafts line up perfectly with the output shafts of the SD. Two pieces of silicon tube will make the connection both simple, direct and noise free. No room for a wet motor either unfortunately although I did consider using a tandem out rigger (but then I realised that I sent the only one I had to YOU!) Helicopters rule - wings are for faries!

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by JHapprich View Post
    Fascinating.but were would i get souch engine? Jörg
    Buy an 'outrunner' type brushless motor and modify it with a case bearing and slip-rings. Not for beginners!

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • JHapprich
    replied
    Fascinating.but were would i get souch engine? Jörg

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by JHapprich View Post

    Maybe i am wrong, but isnt there still actio=reactio. Would not the engine disable itself with such an arrangement? And how would one attach it to the hull?
    Both the motor body and motor armature are on bearings that permit rotation. Power is fed to the motor through slip-rings. Such an arrangement was a feature of the MK 37 torpedo. Crazy on first consideration, but turns out to be a dirt-simple solution to the concentric shaft counter-rotation problem.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • JHapprich
    replied
    Originally posted by DrSchmidt View Post
    Why all the mechanics? Why don't you take a slow spinning brushless motor and connect the inner schaft to the shaft of the motor and the outer shaft to the motor housing? Inherently momentum-free.....
    Maybe i am wrong, but isnt there still actio=reactio. Would not the engine disable itself with such an arrangement? And how would one attach it to the hull?

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by DrSchmidt View Post
    Why all the mechanics? Why don't you take a slow spinning brushless motor and connect the inner schaft to the shaft of the motor and the outer shaft to the motor housing? Inherently momentum-free.....
    Absolutely. Torque balanced, simple, and those motors take well to fresh water. Good call, Doctor.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • DrSchmidt
    replied
    Why all the mechanics? Why don't you take a slow spinning brushless motor and connect the inner schaft to the shaft of the motor and the outer shaft to the motor housing? Inherently momentum-free.....

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by HardRock View Post
    its raining up here today ans so there was a bit of time for a play in the shed. The Albacore will need some form of gearbox and I have experimented with three or four differend designs over the last few years. All of those old designs took a single engine input and split it into contra rotating, co-axial shafts. They all worked but there was a lot of friction and they all suffered when immerced in water. This time I am going to use a twin engine SD; the one that I use in the Zulu and make a simpler twin input design. Like this;

    Click image for larger version

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    The props that David is making will have a 1/8" bore. I'm using a 3mm outer shaft and a 2mm inner shaft. The simple solution to this mismatch was to solder a sleve onto the outer shaft to bring it up to 3.2mm where it will carry the forward prop. While I was at it I added a .8mm round key. I'll cut a small keyway in the bore of that prop when I get ahold of it so that it slides onto the sleve and the key locks it in place. The inner shaft was a bit easier. I took a piece of 1/8" stainless tube and bored most of it out to 2mm. I then cut an M2 thread into the last 1/4" so that I can screw the rear prop onto it.
    Click image for larger version

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    No doubt you're a helicopter jockey -- all that complexity for a gear-box!

    KISS, you moron!

    Inner shaft directly driven by one motor, the outer shaft driven by a gear that girdles it which is driven by a gear of like diameter by the other motor. Done! A sloppy fit between those gears mitigates water-hammer effects.

    KISS, damit! …. KISS

    You people!

    David
    The Horrible

    Leave a comment:


  • HardRock
    replied
    its raining up here today ans so there was a bit of time for a play in the shed. The Albacore will need some form of gearbox and I have experimented with three or four differend designs over the last few years. All of those old designs took a single engine input and split it into contra rotating, co-axial shafts. They all worked but there was a lot of friction and they all suffered when immerced in water. This time I am going to use a twin engine SD; the one that I use in the Zulu and make a simpler twin input design. Like this;

    Click image for larger version

Name:	PA080231.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	575.3 KB
ID:	127877

    The props that David is making will have a 1/8" bore. I'm using a 3mm outer shaft and a 2mm inner shaft. The simple solution to this mismatch was to solder a sleve onto the outer shaft to bring it up to 3.2mm where it will carry the forward prop. While I was at it I added a .8mm round key. I'll cut a small keyway in the bore of that prop when I get ahold of it so that it slides onto the sleve and the key locks it in place. The inner shaft was a bit easier. I took a piece of 1/8" stainless tube and bored most of it out to 2mm. I then cut an M2 thread into the last 1/4" so that I can screw the rear prop onto it.
    Click image for larger version

Name:	PA080233.jpg
Views:	72
Size:	25.8 KB
ID:	127878

    Leave a comment:


  • HardRock
    replied
    Its great stuff. Technirez thyxotic blue gelcoat; R2529 resin and H2429 hardner. Its compatable with West System epoxy too. You can order it through Fiberglass Australia.

    Leave a comment:


  • Davidh
    replied
    Hi Scott,

    i am am so jealous, your parts pop out, pristine, DARN YOU!! could you give me more details of this Queensland mob. What is the exact product. Do tell......

    David H

    Leave a comment:


  • HardRock
    replied
    This is the first production hull for the Albacore. The gel coat is made by a company here in Australia called Technirez and I have to say that it really works. Who would have thought that using correct tools, correctly would result in a better job!

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    Click image for larger version

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    Click image for larger version

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    And one of both the Beluga and Albacore together.

    Click image for larger version

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by Peter W View Post
    Show off...

    Peter
    Damned right!

    If you've got it, flaunt it!

    Leave a comment:


  • Peter W
    replied
    Show off...

    Peter

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by redboat219 View Post
    What's that gadget and what does it do?
    A pre-loaded torsional spring. Without it the hatch would be almost impossible to open.









    David

    Leave a comment:

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