Oscar Continued

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  • greenman407
    Admiral
    • Feb 2009
    • 7530

    #16
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    Ok we start with the offending joint that has an 1/8" gap all along the port side shrinking down to nothing near the bow.Click image for larger version

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    I made this little tool out of rectangular brass tube and CAed sandpaper to it. Then I sanded the area that would recieve the Evercoat.Click image for larger version

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    Then using a putty knife I "smooshed" the filler inside and struck off the excess on the outside.BUT WAIT!! MARK! That bondo is going to stick to the upper hull. Nope. Dave, in his videos shows you how he uses a xacto knife and makes a seperation between the two surfaces. Well , I knew that I would mess that up so I employed an old painters trick. I coated the upper hulls surfaces that would come in contact with the filler with Petroleum jelly, just a thin coat. It kept the filler from sticking. Thats amazing because not only does the upper hull that you are using as a mold in this case have to come off, it also has to slide forward about 3/4" to disengage the indexing pins. Wont the Vaseline effect the filler? NOPE, I experimented beforehand. I also tried masking tape and masking tape coated with oil. The Vaseline works the best. How did it come out?Click image for larger version

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    After sanding I cant see a joint. Now I must continue on with this operation forward.Click image for larger version

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    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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    • greenman407
      Admiral
      • Feb 2009
      • 7530

      #17
      Just a side note. I purchased from Caswell two products. The Evercoat Metal Glaze and the Easysand. I was quite surprised that I can not tell the difference between the two products. In appearance, flowability, sandability and strength they appear to be the same product.
      IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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      • greenman407
        Admiral
        • Feb 2009
        • 7530

        #18
        Subcultures sharp eye picked up on the fact that in the picture of the vertical joint in the back the factory scribing doesnt matchup. Thats where I had to compromise between port and starboard to get everything centered. When it comes time for detailing they will be filled and rescribed.
        IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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        • greenman407
          Admiral
          • Feb 2009
          • 7530

          #19
          Click image for larger version

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          Here we have a captive nut sold by McMaster&Carr. You can see the spline cut into the smaller outside dia. end. This area of the nut you install into your plastic or fiberglass or whatever.
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          You can see after removal of the nut how it dug into the plastic for a good bond.
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          I drilled a 13/64" hole and then used a screw to pull it into the material. Then a drop of thin CA will keep her there.
          IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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          • greenman407
            Admiral
            • Feb 2009
            • 7530

            #20
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            The lower hull comes with indexing lips continuously all down the sides. Since I configured the hull already as a Z-cut and installed the home made indexer in the back with two brass pins, all I need to hold it together is one screw in front.
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            The large plastic lip that I epoxied into the lower half at the front extends forward 3/4" of an inch. It prevents the hulls from seperating unless the top half slides forward.
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            Hence the screw installed in the bow underneath at a 45 degreee angle. I used an Allen screw so that you wouldnt see an unscale Phillips screw there. All thats left to do is grind it down so that its surface is flush wuth the hull. To access it I just roll the sub over about 45 degrees in its cradle and I can get right to it. When you roll it back it is out of sight.
            IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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            • greenman407
              Admiral
              • Feb 2009
              • 7530

              #21
              Ill bet you guys think that Ive been sloughing off on this build. Well just to prove you wrong, Ill update you.Click image for larger version

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              IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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              • greenman407
                Admiral
                • Feb 2009
                • 7530

                #22
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                There was a lot of mismatch at the seams and some delaminations that ive been taking care of with Evercoat and then sanding and contouring. It takes time. We are getting close to being able to put some paint on the bottom section.
                IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

                Comment

                • greenman407
                  Admiral
                  • Feb 2009
                  • 7530

                  #23
                  Before we can put paint to it we need to put on the cooling water scoops. There are four of them and they look somewhat delicate. I can just picture them getting knocked off and lost. The HORRIBLE customer service provided by Scaleships is another reason to anchor these things very securely. Using two number 4 screws in each they were drilled and attached from the inside and the base then sealed with CA. Where to put them on the model was the next step. These nice scale drawings that you can see in the picture can mislead you. The section of the hull where the scoops are attached is where the hull decreases in dia. So since there is no section cut drawing at the attachment points you have to Extrapolate(guess). The drawings show you accurately where they go measuring from the rear so that was the easy part. I found the center of the hull and marked it and measured from there. If you look at them from head on they are arranged so that they are not directly in line with each other but are offset their exact width as you can see in the drawingsClick image for larger version

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                  Using a flexible sewing tape works very well for following the contour of a submarine to transfer measurements
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                  Last edited by greenman407; 04-28-2011, 12:07 PM.
                  IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                  • greenman407
                    Admiral
                    • Feb 2009
                    • 7530

                    #24
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                    If you can see where I am pointing, this little doo dad looks like it might be some kind of scoop but I dont see it included in the detail parts. Does anyone have any idea what it is?
                    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                    • KevinMc
                      Commander
                      • Feb 2009
                      • 305

                      #25
                      Although I have no idea what the purpose of the sensor you're pointing out is, I've noticed it before as well. I actually managed to catch sight of it in a video clip, have a look at the upper left corner of this photo.
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                      Kevin McLeod - Oscar II driver
                      KMc Designs

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                      • greenman407
                        Admiral
                        • Feb 2009
                        • 7530

                        #26
                        Thanks Kevin.
                        IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

                        Comment

                        • greenman407
                          Admiral
                          • Feb 2009
                          • 7530

                          #27
                          We are now ready to put some paint on the lower hull. Im pretty good with an airless and regular spray guns with machinery paint. But this automotive stuff that ive tried gives too much orange peel. Dave gave me some pointers but I havent spent anytime trying to work it out. So , out comes the tried and true rattle cans. I know I can lay that stuff on smooth. The next problem is color. Looking at some of the pictures, the lower hull is painted with what appears to be a brighter Red Oxide than what you see on American boats. So I found this.Click image for larger version

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ID:	62551 The Pimento color seems to be a good match to this picture.Click image for larger version

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ID:	62552 And here is how it came out. The pictures color is decieving as the light doesnt display the color as it really is. It looks close in most light conditions.Click image for larger version

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                          IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                          • greenman407
                            Admiral
                            • Feb 2009
                            • 7530

                            #28
                            Continueing on with the painting. Next I choose to paint the upper section of the stern with Gloss Black.
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                            IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                            • greenman407
                              Admiral
                              • Feb 2009
                              • 7530

                              #29
                              On the upper hull section I wanted to install the supplied limbar hole grates. Problem. The recessed cast in dap outs with a built in shelf are not big enough to properly recess the grate within it and make it flush. So out comes the Dremel to make them bigger with the smallest tool in my selection. Click image for larger version

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                              IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                              • Anuci
                                Banned
                                • Aug 2008
                                • 165

                                #30
                                Nice finish, Mark. The vents and other appendages adds a nice touch to the model, keep going you're almost there.

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