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Oscar Continued

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  • Oscar Continued

    http://forum.sub-driver.com/showthre...-Oscar-2/page6 Here is a link to my Oscar build that I started in the competition. I wanted to continue with it on builders threads because it has a long way to go.

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    Here is a picture of my newly installed brass props. There is quite a story behind them as I had already ordered them once from Rabaesch and recieved them, and started to modify them to fit when they were stolen from my workplace by the lowest form of life on the planet.........Thieves. Thieves who come in the night when everyone else is asleep. SCUM, PARASITES! Im sorry, dont get me started. Anyway I waited months for the first set and then months for the second set. Anyway I finally got them modified and installed with their attenuaters.They proved necessary in high current situations like several weeks ago I visited Blue springs and lost one of the drives so I had only one prop. With the current pushing the boat around I retired early. Now with almost 3 lbs. of thrust even one prop is more than enough.
    Last edited by Kazzer; 12-13-2010, 09:46 AM.
    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

  • #2
    This weekend I took her out again to try to sort things out. My problem is that before I changed the setup on the stern plane linkage this sub held periscope depth perfectly with a capital P. Now it doesnt to put it mildly. So after the run I took it home and commenced the pain in the butt task of accessing the stern planes mech. and moving the pushrod linkage to a different hole to give me more throw on the stern planes. This coming weekend we will see how successful it was. Also the 3200 MAH 3 cell LIPO from Caswell lasted for 2 and 1/4 hrs. of run time. I think thats real good.
    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

    Comment


    • #3
      Excellent run time -- I hope you have a Lipo-Guard in there protecting the battery, Mark!

      David,
      "... well, that takes care of Jorgenson's theory!"

      Comment


      • #4
        Absolutely, The BEC does as well as the speed controller.
        IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

        Comment


        • #5
          The Oscar is a little out of trim but the video serves the purpose. I made it to show the Snort system with the large pump in operation. At some point in the future I want to do it again but this time with it in forward motion, decks awash.
          IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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          • #6
            Carefully note this picture.Click image for larger version

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ID:	60675 Notice the bow wave and the deep trough formed at the bow. Now note my Oscar running on Sunday at 1/3rd throttle.Click image for larger version

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ID:	60677 Somewhat similar, just no whitecap froth on top of the waves.
            IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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            • #7
              Click image for larger version

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ID:	60678 In the first two pictures, what you are seeing is the rear of the sail, where it joins the deck. This is Bondo that I used to fill in a booboo. It was absolutely perfect this time last year. Look at how much it shrunk.
              IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

              Comment


              • #8
                Click image for larger version

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ID:	60709 The hull indexer. A series of pictures showing my progress in this area.Click image for larger version

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                Last edited by greenman407; 01-03-2011, 12:38 PM.
                IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                • #9
                  Click image for larger version

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ID:	60789 As you can see from these various pictures Im having to use threaded rod internally to pull the stern housing into shape. Using a template to see when I get it right. Then using this awesome marine sealant as a adhesive, install the indexer. Ive got a lot of experience using this 3M product. I can tell you that once its cured it will never come loose. Youll have to grind it down to get rid of it. Its also no mess, nothing to mix, just put it on.
                  IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                  • #10
                    Click image for larger version

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ID:	60803 With the rear bulkhead with the pin indexers installed in the rear section its time to install the doubled up bulkhead to the rear of the midsection that will interface with the alignment pins. In this picture you can see the space between the two sections. It goes from about an 1/8" on this side to zero on the other side. The doubled up bulkheads will provide a shelf that will help support the Evercoat Metal Glaze to make it all right. The holes that I drilled to engage the threaded rods will also be filled up as there is no longer a need for the rods.
                    Last edited by greenman407; 12-02-2011, 12:49 PM.
                    IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Click image for larger version

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ID:	60804 Here you can see the pieces spread open and showing the indexing pins.
                      IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                      • #12
                        Click image for larger version

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ID:	60805 Here is an endview showing the difference in shape of the bulkhead and the midsection as highlighted by the space between them. It will be made to conform to the bulkhead by the use first of CA and then later by the marine adhesive.Click image for larger version

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ID:	60806 Forcing it to conform.Click image for larger version

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ID:	60807 This is what all the hubub is about, the misalignment. As a consequence of all this , now there is a gap between the upper and lower hulls that will have to be addressed with Mr. Evercoat and some sandpaper.Click image for larger version

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                        IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                        • #13
                          Click image for larger version

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ID:	60892 The difference between Bondo Premium and Dynalite products compared to Evercoat Metalglaze is amazing. Bondo in my experience is always sticky after it dries and plugs up sandpaper in a hurry. Whereas the Metalglaze drys fast and cuts well.Click image for larger version

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ID:	60893 Using this little spatula I was able to put it where I wanted it to go with ease.Click image for larger version

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ID:	60894 I know you guys know how to put on auto body filler and sand it. Im just chronicaling my efforts. Here you can see the application of the Evercoat , trying to get enough on there the first time so that after sanding, it would not need any further applications. Click image for larger version

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ID:	60895 After sanding, it lines up perfectly and the gap closes up nice. Then I took some epoxy and glass cloth and from the inside sealed up the holes that I drilled in the hull to allow the threaded rod to penetrate. Next, the metalglaze will finish off those holes.
                          IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                          • #14
                            I am concerned that the evercoat will get bumped and bruised at the joint. Dave, in the past has recommended dripping thin CA on the evercoat and letting it soak in to strengthen it.
                            IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!

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                            • #15
                              You need the better grade bondo. The "regular" like you said gums up paper. Its usually called "professional gold" and is pale green in color, its much better stuff and only a few bucks more.

                              Yes wick thin CA in there if its a spot you will be hitting when in use. I will actually crack off the bondo very slightly, and fill crack with thin CA and stick it back together. This bonds much better than the filler itself.

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