A Skipjack in Ireland

[steveuk]

Hi Steve,

Nice to hear from someone on this side of the world.

You are correct, the pivot point for the rudders has been moved. I followed David's instructions in his report on the adaption of the Skipjack for his fittings. A link to the the full report is here, you can ignore whatever part does nor suit.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_10776725/tm.htm

Happy modelling.

Rob

Thanks for the link Rob. That is exactly what I needed. I knew Dave had written a lengthy repor tsomewhere, I just couldn't find it again. So, its a 1/4 inch aft. Roger that.

[The Boattrainman]

There's not much to work with in terms of some light weathering, a bit of salt staining is applied by using a very dilute grey/white enamel.




The dilute mix is run into the recess lines on a small paintbrush and let dribble downwards, then before it dries it is wiped downwards with a rag damped with clean white spirit. It needs to be really dilute so that it runs around the recesses, if it doesn't run it's too thick. Too much application and it can simply be wiped off (always downward) with the rag.


The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

I've come up with a problem I can't seem to remedy.

I have servo twitch, but only on the servo with the Engel LR3 Mini Pitch Controller AND the servo doesn't twitch when the LR3 is not used (inline connection).

I had the LR3 tested by Engel and it is fine, plus I've isolated every circuit, changed TX and Rx crystals, re-routed the servo leads, checked every connection for continuity, tried 3 different servos from two different manufacturers (Turnigy and Emax). I wonder is a high quality digital servo needed at this stage just for the LR3.

The twitch is not bad, just a minor shudder every 3/4 seconds, but bloody iritating...........!

Any thoughts would be most appreciated.

The Boattrainman

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I've come up with a problem I can't seem to remedy.

I have servo twitch, but only on the servo with the Engel LR3 Mini Pitch Controller AND the servo doesn't twitch when the LR3 is not used (inline connection).

I had the LR3 tested by Engel and it is fine, plus I've isolated every circuit, changed TX and Rx crystals, re-routed the servo leads, checked every connection for continuity, tried 3 different servos from two different manufacturers (Turnigy and Emax). I wonder is a high quality digital servo needed at this stage just for the LR3.

The twitch is not bad, just a minor shudder every 3/4 seconds, but bloody iritating...........!

Any thoughts would be most appreciated.

The Boattrainman

What is feeding the receiver bus? Maybe you're overloading a BEC?

David

[The Boattrainman]

Hi David,

I'm powering the Receiver with a separate battery pack (4.8V 2,200mah) for the moment till I get this sorted. I'll use a BEC from the ESC later, but I have to solve this first.

Rob

[Subculture]

Unlikely the LR3 shouldn't is an issue, as they're designed to work down to 3.3v. A digital servo isn't required and won't offer any advantage. I would be inclined to try running on BEC, it may be that the servo you are using doesn't like the lower pack voltage, although it should by rights be okay on 4.8volts.

[Pawly]

Hi Rob,

Do you have a ferrite ring installed near the Rx?

Regards

Pawly

[The Boattrainman]

Here is the RX placement.



It's well away from any 12V circuit, plus even when the 12V is dead, I still have the twitching. No ferrite ring installed either.


Here is the servo and LR3 location.




The painting progresses, here is the full hull painted, still lots of work still to do to blend it all in, rattle cans for the main colours and I hand painted the sonar domes and emergency buoys.




The Boattrainman

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Too gray.

David

[The Boattrainman]

David,

I think you might be right.

I agonised over this, the other dark dark grey I had was almost black, and it looked like a silloutte...................!

I'm washing it in a mixture dilute black/grey to get the colour a bit darker and also to blend the red anti foul.

Not going for a repaint at this stage.

Rob

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

David,

I think you might be right.

I agonised over this, the other dark dark grey I had was almost black, and it looked like a silloutte...................!

I'm washing it in a mixture dilute black/grey to get the colour a bit darker and also to blend the red anti foul.

Not going for a repaint at this stage.

Rob

Of course I'm right.

Step back a few weeks, then rejoin the project, lay down the masking (PVA carefully brushed over the markings) and hit it with a mist coating of honest-to-god black from a rattle-can.



David

[The Boattrainman]

Aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh................................ ...........!



(damn)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Aaaaaggggghhhhhhhh................................ ...........!



(damn)

LOL.

But .... I used the sharp knife!?

David

[Pawly]

Hi Boattrainman,

i do do not understand electronics totally and although your install is superb, electronic gremlins are everywhere. What looks like your battery wires (red and black) wrapped around the plastic may have some magnetic interference.
My Engel SPC 2 was working great with the original length wire, I had no issue. Once I cut it to make it neat I ended with a uncontrollable motor. All other controls responded correctly.

See my post on motor issue - https://forum.sub-driver.com/forum/s...in-my-skipjack

Regards

Pawly

[The Boattrainman]

Hi Pawly,

Thanks for taking the time to comment.

I was worried about that twist of cable myself, so I stripped it off and I still have the odd 'twitch', so no joy there.

My next port of call is to try the ferrite ring idea, and I'll be choosing an ESC and using the BEC from that, so hopefully that may alleviate the problem.

Rob