A Skipjack in Ireland

[The Boattrainman]

Seriously pi**ed off with Hobbyking, no sign of my order, so gone elsewhere for servos etc!!!

In the meantime, I need access to the hull for some sort of On/Off switch, there's a hatch on the forward deck which gets opened up.




This fitting is made to go under the hatch from 1mm styrene.




The fitting gets sides and a new hatch is made with lugs to take a 1.5mm brass hinge.




The hatch opens and closes and is a pressure fit in the hole, which is big enough to poke a screw driver or small rod into.




I'll figure out what the access is to later, but it means I can turn some sort of main switch on without opening the hull.

The Boattrainman

[Greevesman]

Nautilus Drydocks has a remote radio controlled on off switch. No need for a hole.

[The Boattrainman]

Hi Greevesman,

With you 100,%, saw Bob's products, the electronic starter is a great idea.

BUT

As I mentioned earlier, the cost of postage and tax from the USA will put the product at around 60 plus Euro, which I can't justify for this build given the Sub kit itself cost 65 Euro. Also, I prefer mechanical On/Off switches as the boat is complete, you don't need any additional items other than the TX to operate. Here's the set up disguised on my last build.




I prefer to think of the Sub as coming with a working forward hatch!

Rob

[Albion]

i cut out the round hatch just aft of the hole you, no where near big enough :(, might revisit that decision looking at your work

[The Boattrainman]

Hi Albion,

I did consider that round hatch, but I had put the Photo-etched part there and didn't want to spoil that work.

It doesn't look very prototypical when opened, I was actually surprised at the thickness of the plastic here (around 2.5mm), the access hatch looks like it's made of six inch thick steel!!!

Rob

[The Boattrainman]

The hatch mechanism is held in place by a slot and tab mechanism and a small screw (sorry that second photo isn't great).

I'd rather glue it in place but as Murphy's Law (another Irishman by the way!) has it, any part that you can't service will be the first to fail.




The hatch sits flush to the hull and by having the hinge at the 3/4 point it opens by pushing down on one end.




The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

The servos are positioned in holes cut in the aft of the tech rack, two over and one under.




It's going to be a busy end cap here, with three servo arms, the piston tank inlet/outlet, a12v connection for lights and the prop shaft.

The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

Holes are drilled to take 6mm brass tubes and the wires for the lights (2 for the rear light and 2 for the lights in the sail).




The styrene surrounds are filled with epoxy, nothing new here.

This is not really all that enjoyable, having worked hard to get an airtight WTC, drilling the end cap full of holes is bad for the nerves!




The Boattrainman

[trout]

Suggestion, for next time, the 4 wires that you drilled holes for. Put in 4 rods or solid brass wire, then solder the wires to that. David once shared that water worked its way through the sheathing and allowed water to get in. By soldering to the wire you make a dam that stops that, then you can seal it all in.

[The Boattrainman]

Hi Trout,

Great tip, I'm stuck with the direct wires through the hull method on this one!

This is what the back of WTC now looks like.




The push rods are all in line, bent to the same angle and joined with brass collars that have been drilled to be a tight fit on both rods.




The lower servo joins the reverse throw fitting, the servo arm of which has now been cut down to size and will take the movement up to the sail planes. It's all plastic, brass or stainless steel in the flooded areas.




The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

Here is what the forward end of the WTC now looks like.




The main switch push rod exits the WTC and send in two brass collars. The switch is loose till I decide it's exact location.




The two collars finish up under the opening hatch and between the lugs of the hatch mounting mechanism under the fore deck when both halves of the hull are attached.

Just stick a small screw driver head or other rod in the gap between the collars and turn the boat On or Off. Simple.

The Boattrainman

[The Boattrainman]

I've worked up a draft wiring diagram, so I've something to work off with the components roughly where they are positioned on the WTC.




The Boattrainman

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Get that Y-lead out and use the angle-keeper to drive only the stern planes. The sail planes don't have the moment arm to control pitch angle -- the stern planes handle that job.

You want to stick a useful gadget between the receiver and the sail-plane servo? Then employ one of Kevin McLeod's great little depth-controllers. I'm using one on my little 1/96 KILO and depth control is hands-off!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWrWKm95kCE&t=107s



David

[Albion]

Get that Y-lead out and use the angle-keeper to drive only the stern planes. The sail planes don't have the moment arm to control pitch angle -- the stern planes handle that job.

You want to stick a useful gadget between the receiver and the sail-plane servo? Then employ one of Kevin McLeod's great little depth-controllers. I'm using one on my little 1/96 KILO and depth control is hands-off!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWrWKm95kCE&t=107s



David

I was wondering about this, the sail planes are pretty high, so you will not be able to dive it until the sail is under, and even then the planes would be close to surface. is that still good? i was looking to hook up sail planes direct to RX, and the rear planes via angle keeper so you could override the angle keeper.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I was wondering about this, the sail planes are pretty high, so you will not be able to dive it until the sail is under, and even then the planes would be close to surface. is that still good? i was looking to hook up sail planes direct to RX, and the rear planes via angle keeper so you could override the angle keeper.

Yes, as you describe it: angle-keeper driving the stern planes for control of pitch. Direct control (you) of sail-planes for depth control.

David