Party (fishing) boats

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  • Ken_NJ
    Captain
    • Sep 2014
    • 735

    #46
    Glueing the railing in place.
    Holes were previously drilled into the gunwale at regular intervals. The holes were drilled with a drill press to be sure the holes were drilled at 90 degrees to the waterline. The railing posts were soldered to the top rail so the railing could be removed in one cohesive unit, make that two, port and starboard. After everything was painted installing the railing started.

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    G-Poxy was placed in each hole with a pin. Each post was roughed up.

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    Each post of the railing was inserted into each hole. U-shaped spacers were made all to the same height. These spacers were placed under the lower rail against a post. Creative clamping was then done in order to apply equal pressure along the railing length. Port and starboard rails were installed separately. The name on the side is only paper to determine the correct appearance.

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    The result.

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    • Ken_NJ
      Captain
      • Sep 2014
      • 735

      #47
      Anchor post.
      I did not have and pics of the anchor handling equipment on this boat, but I did from other boats so I went with this. The anchor post is a few sections of basswood.

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      Brass pins were inserted in the bottom and drill marks were made on the deck. A small drill press was placed over the boat bow and these holes were drilled again 90 degrees to the waterline. When the boat framing was built, I had preinstalled reinforcement in this area expecting the need for a solid foundation for this hardware.

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      Notice the 'weathered' bollards that the anchor line wears away at the wood as it's wrapped around the posts.

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      Painted anchor post. Still need to fashion the windlass gear, eventually.
      Also the white covering boards have been installed around the inside perimeter of the bulwark.


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      • Ken_NJ
        Captain
        • Sep 2014
        • 735

        #48
        For November and December I was recovering from my foot surgery. In December, I did manage to walk some and was able to get into my basement office and started designing my next scratch built party boat. For January, back to normal working in the shop. Spent January working on getting the electronics and wiring done in the Big Marie S.

        For the two kit speed controls I made this mounting tray. The underside of the tray has magnets to attach the tray to the mounts in the boat.

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        Here you can see the magnets mounted to the underside.

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        The mounts secured in the hull.

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        This piece will hold the KeyFob on-off device (on the right). On the left will be on-off switches.

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        Here is how this will fit in the boat. It will held in place by friction and gravity, and connected wires.

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        The mounting plate for the switches is GRP. Here it is drilled out for the switches. The paper taped to it is the artwork. The art was printed on my Laser printer on a page from a magazine. Had to be printed in reverse. The GRP was heated with a clothes iron, then the paper was flipped over then it was heated with the iron separated with a paper towel sheet. Removed the iron, then pressed on with a small roller. Let cool then soak in water. After it soaked for about 10 minutes, peeled the paper off.

        The GRP was a 12x12 sheet I bought from McMaster Carr. I have two sheets. 1/32 and 1/16 inches thick. They come in handy for many things.

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        Completed. The terminal block at the left are all grounds, black. The terminal block to the right all positive, red. There is another post the explains the KeyFob device.

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        All negative lines get black heat shrink. All positive gets red heat shrink. Under the heat shrink you see here are bullet connectors. I used 2mm bullet connectors for most of the connections. The small yellow bands make sure the right wires get plugged in where they should be.

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        ESC's mounted in place. Under the ESC's are inline mini spade fuse holders. The fuses are between the ESC's and the motor.

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        You can see a fuse holder between the ESC's. Here the on-off switches and remote on-off device panel is mounted. Held in place with friction, gravity and the wires. Easily removable.

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        The Lipo battery tray.

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        Everything mounted in position. And all easily removable.

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        The ESC tray just pops off for access to the fuses. Notice the magnets.

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        Power is on. When the center switch is toggled to Remote, power goes to the remote device and I can turn power on & off to the ESC's with the Keyfob. If the toggle switch is on Direct, it does not use the remote device and power is applied directly to the ESC's. Why do this you say??? Sometimes you want to dock or tie off the boat while in the water. I can use the Keyfob to turn power off to the motors and not worry about any glitches, etc. If I were to be at a show with the boat on the table, don't need power for the motors. What if I forget the Keyfob at home? Just flick the toggle to Direct and I can still run the boat.
        Why else do this?? Because I can and I like over engineering some things. And it looks impressive! Professional!

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        Another view. I can use the same Keyfob with four other boats. The remote kit came with two remotes.

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        One problem I had with the LED's. I had 'Direct' connected to the positive terminal block. I had the remote-on-off connected to the positive terminal block. And the two ESC's were connected to the positive terminal block. When I put the toggle to Remote, the LED came on. Then when I turned on the remote on-off device, the Direct LED came on. That should not be. I went on an electronics forum and the gents there had me rewire the connections a bit so the LED's now come on when they should.

        Comment

        • He Who Shall Not Be Named
          Moderator
          • Aug 2008
          • 12201

          #49
          I so enjoy your methodical approach to the subject -- a place for everything, and everything in its place. The amount of forethought and execution is so inspiring. And your wood work... I can almost smell the sap and glue as you show and describe your excellent work.

          Posts like yours, and that first cup of coffee, is the perfect start of the day.

          What a beauty!

          David
          Who is John Galt?

          Comment

          • Bob Gato
            Captain
            • Feb 2019
            • 817

            #50
            Sweet installation Ken!-and the woodwork is so crisp!

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            • trout
              Admiral
              • Jul 2011
              • 3539

              #51
              Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
              Posts like yours, and that first cup of coffee, is the perfect start of the day.
              That sums it up David. Ken, I learn and get inspired when you post. I have two surface boats to build, I will try to mimic your abilities.
              If you can cut, drill, saw, hit things and swear a lot, you're well on the way to building a working model sub.

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