Party (fishing) boats

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  • trout
    replied
    Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be Named
    Posts like yours, and that first cup of coffee, is the perfect start of the day.
    That sums it up David. Ken, I learn and get inspired when you post. I have two surface boats to build, I will try to mimic your abilities.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Sweet installation Ken!-and the woodwork is so crisp!

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  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    I so enjoy your methodical approach to the subject -- a place for everything, and everything in its place. The amount of forethought and execution is so inspiring. And your wood work... I can almost smell the sap and glue as you show and describe your excellent work.

    Posts like yours, and that first cup of coffee, is the perfect start of the day.

    What a beauty!

    David

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    For November and December I was recovering from my foot surgery. In December, I did manage to walk some and was able to get into my basement office and started designing my next scratch built party boat. For January, back to normal working in the shop. Spent January working on getting the electronics and wiring done in the Big Marie S.

    For the two kit speed controls I made this mounting tray. The underside of the tray has magnets to attach the tray to the mounts in the boat.

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    Here you can see the magnets mounted to the underside.

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    The mounts secured in the hull.

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    This piece will hold the KeyFob on-off device (on the right). On the left will be on-off switches.

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    Here is how this will fit in the boat. It will held in place by friction and gravity, and connected wires.

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    The mounting plate for the switches is GRP. Here it is drilled out for the switches. The paper taped to it is the artwork. The art was printed on my Laser printer on a page from a magazine. Had to be printed in reverse. The GRP was heated with a clothes iron, then the paper was flipped over then it was heated with the iron separated with a paper towel sheet. Removed the iron, then pressed on with a small roller. Let cool then soak in water. After it soaked for about 10 minutes, peeled the paper off.

    The GRP was a 12x12 sheet I bought from McMaster Carr. I have two sheets. 1/32 and 1/16 inches thick. They come in handy for many things.

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    Completed. The terminal block at the left are all grounds, black. The terminal block to the right all positive, red. There is another post the explains the KeyFob device.

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    All negative lines get black heat shrink. All positive gets red heat shrink. Under the heat shrink you see here are bullet connectors. I used 2mm bullet connectors for most of the connections. The small yellow bands make sure the right wires get plugged in where they should be.

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    ESC's mounted in place. Under the ESC's are inline mini spade fuse holders. The fuses are between the ESC's and the motor.

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    You can see a fuse holder between the ESC's. Here the on-off switches and remote on-off device panel is mounted. Held in place with friction, gravity and the wires. Easily removable.

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    The Lipo battery tray.

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    Everything mounted in position. And all easily removable.

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    The ESC tray just pops off for access to the fuses. Notice the magnets.

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    Power is on. When the center switch is toggled to Remote, power goes to the remote device and I can turn power on & off to the ESC's with the Keyfob. If the toggle switch is on Direct, it does not use the remote device and power is applied directly to the ESC's. Why do this you say??? Sometimes you want to dock or tie off the boat while in the water. I can use the Keyfob to turn power off to the motors and not worry about any glitches, etc. If I were to be at a show with the boat on the table, don't need power for the motors. What if I forget the Keyfob at home? Just flick the toggle to Direct and I can still run the boat.
    Why else do this?? Because I can and I like over engineering some things. And it looks impressive! Professional!

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    Another view. I can use the same Keyfob with four other boats. The remote kit came with two remotes.

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    One problem I had with the LED's. I had 'Direct' connected to the positive terminal block. I had the remote-on-off connected to the positive terminal block. And the two ESC's were connected to the positive terminal block. When I put the toggle to Remote, the LED came on. Then when I turned on the remote on-off device, the Direct LED came on. That should not be. I went on an electronics forum and the gents there had me rewire the connections a bit so the LED's now come on when they should.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Anchor post.
    I did not have and pics of the anchor handling equipment on this boat, but I did from other boats so I went with this. The anchor post is a few sections of basswood.

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    Brass pins were inserted in the bottom and drill marks were made on the deck. A small drill press was placed over the boat bow and these holes were drilled again 90 degrees to the waterline. When the boat framing was built, I had preinstalled reinforcement in this area expecting the need for a solid foundation for this hardware.

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    Notice the 'weathered' bollards that the anchor line wears away at the wood as it's wrapped around the posts.

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    Painted anchor post. Still need to fashion the windlass gear, eventually.
    Also the white covering boards have been installed around the inside perimeter of the bulwark.


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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Glueing the railing in place.
    Holes were previously drilled into the gunwale at regular intervals. The holes were drilled with a drill press to be sure the holes were drilled at 90 degrees to the waterline. The railing posts were soldered to the top rail so the railing could be removed in one cohesive unit, make that two, port and starboard. After everything was painted installing the railing started.

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    G-Poxy was placed in each hole with a pin. Each post was roughed up.

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    Each post of the railing was inserted into each hole. U-shaped spacers were made all to the same height. These spacers were placed under the lower rail against a post. Creative clamping was then done in order to apply equal pressure along the railing length. Port and starboard rails were installed separately. The name on the side is only paper to determine the correct appearance.

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    The result.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Not off topic... decals.... but a good off topic... still boats!

    I have lots of film photos I need to convert to digital of the Benihanna back then. Always got out in our boat to see the boats go by. Back then it was a 300 mile race going from Pt. Pleasant to Seaside to Sandy Hook back to Pt Pleasant. These days they circle Pt Pleasant to Seaside but they are not the bigger offshore boats, more of a local race. Hope to someday covert those negatives to digital. Have some great shots.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Cool...BTW I saw that boat run at point pleasant back in the 70s piloted by Betty cook... Sorry Ken so very off topic!.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Originally posted by Bob Gato
    Did you have you her cut extras in case you mess one up... I did with the boot stripes but I never asked her to do the extra logos I guess I'll be holding my breath on those...
    The first set she sent me where back lettered decals, she knew I needed it as a stencil, minor oops. She resent a pair of them as stencil, I only asked for two. If I messed up figured I can ask for more.

    I did this stencil thing before on the bow of KAAMA.



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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    I'll have to ask her how thin of chrome decal she can make that I can use on the rub rail. The one that wraps around the stern of the boat. I was thinking of someone masking it and painting it but a decal might work better. It would have to be like 1/16". It would also have to be sealed in place with a clear coat. That is why I was thinking chrome paint/clear coat would be better. Thanks for mentioning it.


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    Last edited by Ken_NJ; 10-27-2023, 06:15 PM.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Looks fantastic! ...Callie it's super I'm having her cut some chrome vinyl for my Regulator logos and a 1/8" bootstripe with the word Regulator printed on the forward quarters of the stripe... I usually make my own decals but I can't work in Chrome like she can... I never thought of doing stencils... Very slick- Did you have you her cut extras in case you mess one up... I did with the boot stripes but I never asked her to do the extra logos I guess I'll be holding my breath on those...

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Thanks Bob, appreciate the kudos.

    I used rattle cans to paint the hull. First went the hull white, then the bottom paint blue then the boot stripe red. Once that was all done the bulwark was painted a vintage gray. The railing was painted separately and then glued to the bulwark. If you recall, the epoxied hull was scribed to simulate a planked hull. You will see in later pictures how that came out. It was an experiment but an experiment I knew would come out to my expectations. I also tested this on a test article from learning from David with air brushing and weathering.

    Before painting.

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    Here you can see everything is painted and the railing is installed. You can also see the simulated planked lines. Also note the spray rail along the chine.

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    The graphics templates were done by Callie Graphics. We had many emails between us to get the graphics to my satisfaction. For this template, you peel the backside, adhere it to the model, press and press to be sure of the adhesion, then peel the front side, mask around the template, spray, then remove the masking and template.

    You can also see here the detail of the 'planking', nice job on the railing paint, the drip rail and the worn, used bollards.

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    Ready for masking.

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    Black spray paint

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    All masking removed and touch up done. It came our great!! Very satisfied.

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  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Awesome -you build the electronic speed control ...but you have the friction band shipped in from china, lol, (of which you had a model match spring on the L/H stick to copy) ...I know - you only have two hands and one operational foot!
    Ken the boat looks amazing!
    Last edited by Bob Gato; 10-26-2023, 06:10 PM.

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  • Ken_NJ
    replied
    Thanks Casey.

    For my series of party boats I'll be using a Radiolink AT9S Pro. The right vertical stick would be the throttle for most models but I will be having to control two motors with independent speed controls in these boats. The right stick is spring loaded to return the stick to the center position. I'll be using both vertical sticks to control the motors so I do not want the one stick to be spring loaded. I contacted Radiolink from their website and asked about getting the 'friction control' hardware so I can add it to the one stick. This way both sticks will have the same feel. I just had to pay $5 for shipping on Aliexpress. In the picture below I will be removing the spring and lever marked with yellow arrows. The shinny metal strips you see to the right I will be adding to the left one. The blue arrow points to the serrated portion of the stick the metal piece will be going on.

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    Removed spring and lever.

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    Friction parts from Radiolink.

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    Spring and lever removed and friction part in place.

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  • Das Boot
    replied
    Very nice builds.

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