today's work

[redboat219]

the catalyzing resin does not produce any substantial exothermic reaction (heat) that can distort the 3D printed master?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Are you building the rubber up in layers and/or added any thickening additives?

Yes. However, the first layer is un-thickened so that it can flow freely enough to find its way into all the crevasses and engravings of the master/pattern. later laminates of this rubber are thickened to increase build-up till the optimum wall thickness of the glove mold -- about 1/4" -- is achieved.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

the catalyzing resin does not produce any substantial exothermic reaction (heat) that can distort the 3D printed master?

Correct. I use external heat sources (IR lamps) to accelerate the rubbers cure.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[DrSchmidt]

Nice work David. What kind of tools do you use to transfer the outlines of the hull onto the parting plane. That's something I always have a hard time doing in a satisfying way.

[redboat219]

Why not just cut the master in half then glue them onto a flat board?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Why not just cut the master in half then glue them onto a flat board?

Tried that with the first master Joe sent me -- the result of the split was pure disaster.













Hey, Romel: how about reading the entire thread -- that way you would have been informed of that incident and would not take up my precious time repeating myself.

David
On The Clock

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Nice work David. What kind of tools do you use to transfer the outlines of the hull onto the parting plane. That's something I always have a hard time doing in a satisfying way.

Outside calipers, multi-point proportional divider, custom cut stencils, and plenty of elbow-grease.

[DrSchmidt]

Cutting a master is always dangerous, as it can deform and bend, resulting in a grp hull with non-fitting halves. That's why I always make solid masters, use parting planes, and try to generate rigid molds. If you want separate masters, then you have to start making the master demountable right from start. But there will still be the risk of warpage and bending.

[redboat219]

Cutting a master is always dangerous, as it can deform and bend, resulting in a grp hull with non-fitting halves. That's why I always make solid masters, use parting planes, and try to generate rigid molds. If you want separate masters, then you have to start making the master demountable right from start. But there will still be the risk of warpage and bending.

Point taken

[Subculture]

Are you adding registration points on the tool after moulding, or is the intention to join the parts outside of the tool?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Are you adding registration points on the tool after moulding, or is the intention to join the parts outside of the tool?

Yes, the eventual hull halves will be stand-alone structures, later integrated in a Z configuration with add-on indexing tabs and flanges installed to keep the radial and linear edges in registration.

David

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

[DrSchmidt]

I'm still intrigued by the soft sleeve in a rigid case approach. Totally different from what I've learned building RC race planes. How many copies will you be able to pull out of such a mold?

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm still intrigued by the soft sleeve in a rigid case approach. Totally different from what I've learned building RC race planes. How many copies will you be able to pull out of such a mold?

Maybe 30 if I use a PVC barrier. 15 if I don't -- that's with the TC-5040 'brushable' rubber I'm using here. Over 100 if I use the TC-5050 -- which has to be poured, as demonstrated here: