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We welcome anyone with a passion for submarines and a desire to learn and share knowledge about this fascinating hobby. Use of these forums indicates your intention to abide by our code of conduct:
1. No spam. All automated messages, advertisements, and links to competitor websites will be deleted immediately.
2. Please post in relevant sub-forums only. Messages posted in the wrong topic area will be removed and placed in the correct sub-forum by moderators.
3. Respect other users. No flaming or abusing fellow forum members. Users who continue to post inflammatory, abusive comments will be deleted from the forum after or without a warning.
4. No threats or harassment of other users will be tolerated. Any instance of threatening or harassing behavior is grounds for deletion from the forums.
5. No profanity or pornography is allowed. Posts containing adult material will be deleted.
6. No re-posting of copyrighted materials or other illegal content is allowed. Any posts containing illegal content or copyrighted materials will be deleted.
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Hi David,
I have been looking at your endcap manufacture with a lot of interest, and I have a questions.
Who is your supplier of bushings, and gears for your shafts ?
With the twin shafts off the one motor do you have any pics of how the shafts are sealed?
regards
David H
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Originally posted by Davidh View PostHi David,
I have been looking at your endcap manufacture with a lot of interest, and I have a questions.
Who is your supplier of bushings, and gears for your shafts ?
With the twin shafts off the one motor do you have any pics of how the shafts are sealed?
regards
David H
The spur gears come from Stock Drive, https://www.sdp-si.com/
The single-shaft is the only one that needs to be watertight.
I make my own shaft seal from an Oilite bearing (unflanged), and a cup-seal. The seal body is re-purposed resin sprue. Like so:
DavidResident Luddite
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I rely heavily on reproducible model building techniques. My principle one is resin casting. Most of that work, as illustrated here, is simple pressure assisted casting. Some hum-drum piece work needed to make the parts utilized by the r/c submarine modular systems I market through the Nautilus Drydocks. Polyurethane casting resin is catalyzed, poured into rubber tools, pressurized till it hardens, then the tools are opened and the cast parts extracted, and the process repeated.
Spent most of last week leak checking and certifying a group of our major project, the SubDriver. This is a watertight enclosure containing the propulsion, control, and ballast sub-systems needed to operate an r/c model submarine. These things are our bread-and-butter. We used to do industrial displays, movie effects miniatures, private commissions, and resin kits (remember Lunar Models?). Today we support the r/c submarine hobby trade.
Resident Luddite
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I'm in the process of joining the 21st Century: I'm switching from brushed to brushless motors. That has required some motor evaluation and development of new foundations to mount the motor(s) within the SubDriver. Here I'm mocking-up a motor-bulkhead master with motor and associated hardware. If it works in this form then it will work with the eventual cast resin pieces produced from the masters.
Just another day in the shop.
DavidResident Luddite
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Originally posted by trout View PostWhat are the gloves used for? Cold or testing the motor’s strength?
The same protocol I observed over thirty years ago when I selected brushed motors for my line of WTC's.
DavidResident Luddite
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Hello David,
A wealth of great info once again. I do however have some more questions mainly to do with clarity of what I’m seeing.
I notice on your end caps in the most recent pics where the pushrods are located, there is a faint ring of blue silicon around them. Are these inserts? I always assumed that your pushrod design simply meant sliding a tiny o ring on a brass shaft inside the silicon mould and the poly resin encased the o -ring after pulling out the brass core. Have I missed something here?
Also do you buy a length of stainless for your shafts, cut them to size and then drill the hole in the end to friction fit onto the shorter motor shaft? How do you guarantee that the new shaft extension is absolutely parallel with the original shaft or is any eccentricity taken by the flexing of other parts? I did read earlier that
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Originally posted by george View PostHello
In your post 61 picture, what is that brass rod/bent strip for?
DavidResident Luddite
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Originally posted by Davidh View PostHello David,
A wealth of great info once again. I do however have some more questions mainly to do with clarity of what I’m seeing.
I notice on your end caps in the most recent pics where the pushrods are located, there is a faint ring of blue silicon around them. Are these inserts? I always assumed that your pushrod design simply meant sliding a tiny o ring on a brass shaft inside the silicon mould and the poly resin encased the o -ring after pulling out the brass core. Have I missed something here?
Also do you buy a length of stainless for your shafts, cut them to size and then drill the hole in the end to friction fit onto the shorter motor shaft? How do you guarantee that the new shaft extension is absolutely parallel with the original shaft or is any eccentricity taken by the flexing of other parts? I did read earlier that
The pushrod and shaft seals are discrete items that are inserted and made watertight with silicon adhesive.
Shaft extensions are bored on the lathe. This insures exact centering of the hole to the shaft. I taper the motor shaft and make the fit between motor shaft and shaft extension a tight interference fit.
David
Resident Luddite
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I've completed most of the grunt-work on the masters of a motor bulkhead that will mount a brushless propulsion motor for one of our SubDriver r/c submarine systems. I use the raw masters to check fit and operation in mock-up form. Once everything is working as planned (best laid plans … and all that happy horse-****), I refine the finish of the masters and turn them into rubber tooling from which production items will be cast.
David
Resident Luddite
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Originally posted by trout View PostDoes that motor have a 5mm shaft going to 3/16" shaft?
Bob had a good idea that would save a lot of MSD internal space: mount the motor in the wet! I'm working up a motor-bulkhead (MB) master for that arrangement today. Film at Eleven!
DavidResident Luddite
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