1/96 ScaleShips Oscar II
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From the o-ring on the ballast tank endcap to the o-ring on the ballast header, I measure 15&1/2". Keep in mind that this 3&1/2" Subdriver has no battery compartment.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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And by the way, this ballast tank volume is more than this boat needs. I actually have to flood it down somewhat to get it to surface trim. I could put a styrofoam plug in the ballast tank...............but why? It doesnt seem to hurt anything. Submerged trim is set at the usual 1" of sail sticking up.Last edited by greenman407; 06-21-2015, 07:30 PM.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Thanks Mate. I'm just doing the numbers on the SD. My scientific wild arsed guess was around 11 x 3.5" but it seems that yours is considerably bigger. Back to the calculator.
I attached the arse to the nose today - thats nautical talk for sticking the back on the front. Alignment seems OK and bits went together quite well.
And did some work on the sail. Enjoy it now; it won't look this clean ever again!
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Spot the obvious mistake. For some reason the white window outlines are arranged in the wrong order on the transfer sheet. So, naturally I applied them that way without thinking, until I looked at the photograph in the post which is several times life size. Oops. So this is how its supposed to look!
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Today I cut and fitted the rear flange and sorted out the power for the sail lights. In hindsight (which is clearly, the BEST sight) I should have split the lighting system so that the running lights and the anchor lights were separate. It wouldn't have been a big deal at the time but it is now, since all the wring is buried in fibreglass. Oh well,...live and learn.
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Interesting email from Caswells today. I had ordered an SD for this beastie in April. Having had some time to think about how it would all work I decided that the best solution was to ask for a slightly extended 3.5" tube and an extra bulkhead. The idea was to do this:
The syringes that operate the masts extend quite a long way down under the sail and so I wanted to have a free flood area within the tube that the syringes would sit in. The plan was to keep everything rigid within the SD. To do this I need an slightly elongated tube (34" rather than 30") and one extra bulkhead.
Didn't seems like that big of an ask but I am told that "at the moment we are not able to make special order Sub-Drivers, sorry we already have too many on back order. I might add that two of the eight on back order belong to me! Come-in International Rescue. I have wandered into a nonsense vortex. I need help, International Rescue. Over.Comment
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Hardrock, If all else fails, You could make your own. Order a length of 3&1/2" tube, use the parts from a standard 3&1/2" plus Im sure Dave would come up with two extra bulkheads. Ive done three of them......its fairly quick too.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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Hi Mark. HWSNBN has contacted me on the sun-bather net with a fix. I've already ordered the stuff from Caswell so at this stage I'm just looking for some intercession in getting the order (very slightly) modified.
Did a trial fit of the upper and lower hull this afternoon. Not too bad. Won't fit in the Ferrari however!
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Ferrari? I figured you for a "Land Rover" kinda guy.IT TAKES GREAT INTELLIGENCE TO FAKE SUCH STUPIDITY!Comment
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We have a 4WD for doing stuff around the farm but I wouldn't put anything delicate inside it. The Ferrari arrived years ago when they where as cheap as chips. Looks great, however it drives like a typical 1971 car. Poor steering, poor breaks, poor suspension - GREAT engine. Enzo used to say that he sold engines; the car came as a few extra so don't complain.
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