Japanese Class A 1/16

[HardRock]

What he said! How did you do this; "applied all weldinglines with a laser"?

[trout]

Wow.....just wow.

[MFR1964]

Still on the move with the Ko Hyoteki, wanted to make some big steps accourding the hull build, this is where i stand now



First i had to skin the hull with glass to protect the styrodure against the filler and paint.



In general i apply one extra coat of epoxy to fill most holes, believe me, after spraying some primer i found a lot more, had to make about six runs of filler and wetsanding to get her right.





After this hurdle was taken the fun started, applied all weldinglines with a laser, and started to add the fishingline for imitating the weldinglines.



It took a week or so to get all lines glued down, sniffed enough CA fumes for months.





It was worth the effort, she finally starts to look like a sub, next time i will enjoy you guys with rivets-time.

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

George, the scematic is what it is, as for the needed parts,
P1- 1 Mega Ohm mini-potentiometer
R1- 1 Mega Ohm resistor
C1- 1 Elco 47 micro-Farad 16 Volts
R2- 1 10 Kilo-Ohm resistor
T1- 2 BC 547B Transistors

As for the relais, this depents on which voltage you run the circuit, i've used a 6 volt relais because i run on 2S (7,4 Volts)

Manfred.

[george]

Hello
I too have to say Thank you Manfred for your posting and sharing. Could I please ask / beg for you to redo the circuit drawing, I find I am having some trouble seeing clearly the drawing and the parts list itself.
Sorry for the bother.
George

[bwi 971]

what he said....and great stuff/detail.

grtz,
bart

[trout]

Thank you Manfed! I am grateful for your heart and willingness to share!

[MFR1964]

As promised the pics from the build,



The business end of my torpedo, shot this pic before i started to rework the rearpart, two little brass bearings, the shaft with the propellor and the disk that will be used as a base for the equipment attached to the e-motor.



The allmost finished rear-part, still had to dremel down those white notches, the black spot you see is a grubscrew which can be taken out to lubricate the shaft.



The first design with the internal rack which will hold all the parts like, timerswitch and batterypack, used that previous shown disk as a guide at the front.



The nose-cap on the real thing had netcutters, so the small one should get them too, used a flame to soften up a jewelerssaw, so i could bent it into the desired shape.



One finished, still one to go, at the background you can see the second front-cap in the buildingstage.



Since those torps are big enough i decided to add a timer for the runningtime, this one has a range from 3 sec untill 8 sec, as i know now 5-6 sec running time is more than enough to demonstrate the torpedo to the crowd.



Tom, this is the scematic you were asking for, a pretty simple transistor switch, you can use it from 4,5V untill 12V DC, showing it on the forum will be usefull to other people if they need it.



The complete finished inside of one torpedo, from left to right, batterypack 2S 200mA, timerswitch with reedcontact, E-motor 6V, by slightly overpowering the E motor you will get enough revs for a decent speed.
Next time some more info about the launcher, this item is still under contruction so it will take a while to show the finished product.

Manfred.

[bwi 971]

OK will do so
Grtz,
Bart

[MFR1964]

Yup, i steal only from the best Bart, thanks for the link, now i know what to look for.
You are always wellcome to visit me, next time keep the letters small, still have the age that i don't need a magnifier to read the text.
As for sending the masters to you, that was a option, thanks for the offer, but now i know how to do it myself, a nice learningcurv added to my list,

Manfred.

[bwi 971]

Hey those screw terminal block on your jig look familiar…

The pressure pot I bought at
http://www.fribel.be/product.asp?Obj...&stoelen=false

Compressor and VAC chamber were DIY.

Just one more thing

^{NEXT TIME YOU'RE IN NEED OF SOME EQUIPMENT AND I HAVE TO FIND OUT BY READING IT ON THE FORUM….......I WILL COME OVER WITH MY TORPEDOMAN'S TWEEKER.}

If you had sent me the parts I would have casted them for you.....the offer is still valid Manfred.


Grtz,
Bart

[MFR1964]

It took some time to produce something, but the vid is worth it, later on i'll add the still pics from the build, enjoy

https://youtu.be/F7620jf3qks

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Thanks for the advice David, i don't own a pressure pot, but that can be my next birthday-present, i've seen Bart made his own if She Who Must Be Obeyed starts rolling with her eyes on this strange request.
For now i´ll take a try with the copper one´s, did some testing to see how the thrust is, they produce enough thrust on low speed but not too much, i could only test with a drillingmachine, got one on my dremeltool to speed them up dry-running, the revs make the difference.
I´m going to use a single prop on each torpedo, sice testing revealed that the thrust did not ingreased that much with two props together on the same shaft, you guys have to wait for pics because it´s busy inside the cave, first finish them up.
One more question David, i´ve used the e-motor of my stripped 2 inch Kilo SD, do you know the brand or size?, i've notice you beefed up the shaft by shimming it, prefect for my purpose.

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Tried several times to get me a decent propellor by using the mold, either the resin is too weak, or the dimensions of the propellor are too small, also tried to reinforce the propellor with a little brass frame inside, no succes yet, those blades just sheer off after some pressure.
David, is there some other stuff i can use for making the props sturdy and still flexible?, i allready made a second copper one with the use of my prop-jigg so i can keep progress in building the torps, takes about three hours to produce a copper prop, so time is not really the issue, and by using the prop-jigg it's the same as the first one.

Manfred.

Years ago I was commissioned by an effects house to build the propeller masters that would be used to make tools for wheels needed for the movie, Crimson Tide. That work pictured below.They were big wheels and I employed carbon fibers to strengthen the individually cast blades. The resulting resin parts were very strong in shear and torque. Just what you need, Manfred, for your practical resin propellers.

Two wheels (different scales for the MONTANA). And one wheel for the bad-guy, 'AKULA' -- you can see a casting of that wheel spinning of stage-left as the AKULA implodes... Neat!).

If you watch the movie you will see the MONTANA screw at one point going ahead and turning clockwise, and in other shots, going ahead turning counter-clockwise. The second-unit was not paying attention to the story-boards, later compelling the post production guys in the Editing office to flop the film when printing for continuities sake. Bad Ju-Ju!




Notice that the AKULA wheel is a counter-clockwise rotating unit, and the American wheel turns in the more traditional clockwise direction.

Here's what you do, Manfred:

Strip carbon fibers from some sheet, their length about equal to the diameter of the propeller, lay them into the blade cavities of one-halve of the two-piece rubber tool -- the fibers running right through the hub. Pack them in there. Then assemble the tool and cast as you would using quick-cure polyurethane. But, you must pressurize the mix before it changes state as the fibers are bubble-grabbers.

David

[MFR1964]

Tried several times to get me a decent propellor by using the mold, either the resin is too weak, or the dimensions of the propellor are too small, also tried to reinforce the propellor with a little brass frame inside, no succes yet, those blades just sheer off after some pressure.
David, is there some other stuff i can use for making the props sturdy and still flexible?, i allready made a second copper one with the use of my prop-jigg so i can keep progress in building the torps, takes about three hours to produce a copper prop, so time is not really the issue, and by using the prop-jigg it's the same as the first one.

Manfred.