Japanese Class A 1/16

[MFR1964]

Made a vid to show how far i got with the rest, also a small demonstration how the scope and antenna will work, if i remember right Tom had made such a contraption with the scope of his Skipjack.

Enjoy, https://youtu.be/8MHIb8MO2ZI

Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Goofed around this summer with the V80 and the type VII, now it's time to rapport some progress i made last weeks with the Ko Hyoteki.



The loose parts to get me a SAS floater.



Once put together you get this,



Place on the hull at the right position,



To make things easy, it's held on it's place by using neodine magnets, easy job for maintenance.



Another item on the list that had to be made, added some floats to both the scope and antenna.



Had to made some guidingtubes in the upperpart with the hatch.



Once placed back, you get this, i like to have my parts removable, you never know when you need to do this.



Placed both the antenna and the scope inside, those stainless steel rods are needed to restrict the movement of both devices.



I measured up the maximum i could lower the parts untill i reach the SD inside.



Extended to their maximum Heights.



It barely fitts around the SAS float. here you can see the reserved space between both floats.



For now a teaser, working on this contraption to make my two shooter work, i´ll rapport back when there is progress.


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Yeah, it became a bit of a journey, but at the end i get my reward, that cone gave me some grey hairs, took me some effort to get it right, i ended up with the trusty design you allways use when you have a single shaft propulsion.
I know there is a guy on Youtube which has a working Ko Hyoteki, has some nice underwater video shots,so i know what the result will be, not sure if he has a working two shooter.
Follow the link, https://youtu.be/Hp5wOW73PrU

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Slowly, but surely coming together. That cone is a SOB to work in, isn't it?! Man, this is going to be one slick looking boat once you've get it into the water.

David

[MFR1964]

Wanted to build my resquebouye system, but first had to do something else, David stated correctly that the conical shape of the stern would give problems with bouyency, you're not able to get enough foam inside, so i deciced to leave the last part of the stern alone and turned my attention to the second part of the stern.



Stuffed in as much foam as i could, used the old ribs to follow the contours of the hull and glued them down with RTV



The other side of the business end, placed a small spindle inside and added a slidingbar near the hole of the hatch, this is done to give the wire a smooth ride without gettiing stuck.



A better view on the slidingbar and you can see the hook which will hold the bouye on it's place.



At the same time i could add the steeringrods with their guides, marked down the exact positions with the SD inside.



Added the magnets at the last sternpart, this was also done at the second sternpart, when you "magnitize" them together i can control the propellors, rudders, divingplanes and resquebouye.

Next little project will be, building the floats for both the antenna and the scope, i've seen some nice examples on the forum and will follow that road.


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Blah,blah,blah,blah

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Thanks Tom,

The plate was full with other stuff, have some foundation problems with my house, but that will be taken care of during this year, before i can start with the house build it will take some time, so now it's back to building the Ko Hyoteki to relax.
The upside of the house story is, if all goes well the Cave will be extended by four time the room i have now (think big cellar), wonder if David will still name it as a Pig-pen, we will see in the future.

Manfred.

Productivity is disproportionate to shop cleanliness! Structured chaos is good.

David

[MFR1964]

Thanks Tom,

The plate was full with other stuff, have some foundation problems with my house, but that will be taken care of during this year, before i can start with the house build it will take some time, so now it's back to building the Ko Hyoteki to relax.
The upside of the house story is, if all goes well the Cave will be extended by four time the room i have now (think big cellar), wonder if David will still name it as a Pig-pen, we will see in the future.

Manfred.

[trout]

Manfred,
I gotta say, it is good to see you posting again.
Peace,
Tom

[MFR1964]

Thanks Bart,

Yup, especially when the stock of 6 mm aluminum rods is almost gone, since the lathe was spinning i also made the scope of the Ko Hyoteki, compared to the german scope it's simplicity all over,




Pretty much the same approach, first measurements and have a go with the lathe.



For now she's standing like this on the bench, scope ready and the antenna present, next hurdle is, making the resquebouy mechanism, i decided to work from the back to the front of the boat.
Still have to think about lifting the stuff, probably a KISS float system for both the scope as the antenna.


Manfred.

[bwi 971]

Order of operations 101, how you going to attack a part…….so important…..nice work Manfred.

Grtz,
Bart

[MFR1964]

Scope Up!!!, i'm back

Talking about scope up, made a sidetrack to do a other fellowbuilder a pleasure, he goofed around with building a Bronco Type XXIII, met him a couple of times to see if i could be of help, he made it lately to run his XXIII in the wild, and more important, after diving she resurfaced again, hats off to him.
He did have one request, wanted to have a scale scope instead of that blob of plastick on a stick, told him i could make this happen, took a scrappiece of aluminum and started turning,



Stage one, some stainless steel tube, and a scarppiece of aluminum, i did had to recreate the dimensions of my german scope, now archived for the future.



Coloured the aluminum with a sharpie and marked out the first dimensions.



Lower part has the right dimension for inside the stainless tube, working on the smallest part which contains the peroscopehead.



Turning the conical part of the scope, note that the smaller part not yet is to dimension, this gives you room to tweak with the angle of the conical part.



When the conical part is done you can turn down the smaller part under the head to dimension.



Finished product, ready for fitting it together.



As intended the scope slides into the tube with just enough clearance to add some glue.



To give a impression how big this part is, on my type VII those strange wires are also added, for some reason this was not added at the XXIII's scope.



Final check if i followed the right dimensions, after this i also added the scopesight and made a lens of epoxy for it, now this scope is his problem.

You will wonder what about the Ko Hyoteki?, well, between some other issue's i managed to do some stuff, first i solved the minute gap at the tailpiece,



This was my problem, due to the weight of the rearpart it sometimes wanted to separeate.



Drilled some 1 mm holes straight through the tubes, added some 1 mm copper false rivets.



Once pushed into their holes they secure the rearpart, when needed you can take them out.

to be continued.


Manfred.

[MFR1964]

Thanks Yannis, it was a pleasure meeting you and get a peek inside your cave, i hope everything is well now?

Manfred.

[bassplayer1]

Manfred, I've got no words!!! You are amazing my friend. By the way, thanks for the photo !!!

[MFR1964]

Shaped the divingplanes and rudders, also attended one other item, it seems the hull is a bit off at the end, it should match the diameter of the prop, but it doesn't, solution was, making a piece to make up the space.
Laminated some circuitboard and did some work on the lathe, resulting in this.



A composition of all parts, yet again i raped David's designed prop for my own purpose.



First step is placing the transition ring, it is kept at it's place with one conical 2 mm screw.





By moving the prop backwards i created a problem with the endcap, it could not be secured anymore with the present grubscrew, carefully i drilled some holes through the rear prop and tapped M2 threads into the endcap, this had to be done right in one attemp, i only have one prop!!
By using conical screws they are flush and won't be a problem with turning of the prop.



Two parts together, not a trace to see how the endcap is secured to the rearprop, Phew!!!



The rest is pretty straight forward, first prop is secured by a grubscrew, second prop the same way, this contraption gives a nice transition from the hull to the prop, once painted it will be not that visible.

Now i'm playing around with another issue, since the rearpart becomes heavy it gives too much strain on the magnets, giving me a minute gap between the hull parts, it's not a big issue, but i want to have this solved before i start annoying myself on this.

Manfred.