Only a true SF fan would quip that, Andy! Buckets of sea-water on stand-by!
David
Japanese Class A 1/16
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Hang tight, Manfred. We'll get through this, pal. And Ellie say's hi, to your Boss Lady.
Stand by for heavy rolls, my friend.
DavidLeave a comment:
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Interesting times are starting here in the Netherlands, today they announced a partial shutdown of the country, She Who Will Be Obeyed was ordered last week to work from home by laptop, we are still well, and hope to stay that way by limiting our social contacts.
It's a big mess in the Southern part of our country, they expect a second wave to hit this week, which can turn out nasty, i'll keep you guys informed.
Manfred.Leave a comment:
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All the delivered servo's are placed, rear bulkhead is finished as is the front bulkhead.
All cables are tied together with small T raps, i like to keep things tidy, that ESC i ordered some time ago as a test, it can handle up to 10A, BEC 1A, the horns of the servo's are not yet fastened, this will be done when i know the exact position with all channels in neutral.
I did mentioned about linking up the SAS float at the front , don't want to peel the tube off each time, so i've designed a watertight airplug which i have to make on the lathe.
This is not needed for the rearpart, i only have to adjust the length of the tubes.
Before i can start testing the SD i have to take out the SL8 receiver from the 212, don't know why, but my contraption with the old receiver and shadow programmer is dead, in a way it's better, the receiver was allready a bit of a risk.
Manfred.
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The ordered servo's will arrive next week, just in time to replace the dummy servo's i used to get the arragement right, pictures
I had to make a bracket to house the servo's for the launchtubes, took some stock aluminum plate and bended the right shape, those white strips of evergreen will be used to fasten the servo's.
Took some broken servo's as a dummy to see at which position they had to be placed.
Bended the rods for controlling the launchtubes, it's a tight fitt around the control switches but enough room is left for moving them.
All wires in the rearpart of the SD are in, all connectors soldered and documented which is which.
Battery pack and levelkeeper are placed inside, made a small charging plug so i don't have to take the battery pack out during charging.
From left to right, levelkeeper, battery pack and the charging plug.
For now i have to wait when i have the servo's, when arrived i can start building up the rear bulkhead and the front bulkhead and start testing my contraption.
Manfred.
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I may be wrong but your post 270 has No pictures showing. All previous ones are visible.
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Ran into a ittybitty problem with the SL8, it would not hold the paired channel after power down,
Since i don't have any SL8 receivers anymore i came up with this, rewired a shadow programmer and connected it to the SL8
Normally you have to push a button on the shadow programmer to add the setting, i came up with the waterproof push switch to imitate that.
Soldered the switching wire paralel to the onboard switch, yet again i had to pull some extra wires to the frontpart of the SD.
I finished up the external plumbing on the SD, as intended i've got me a clean SD outside with a minimum stuff sticking out.
After this contraption was wired out into the SD i could start with some basic testing, it revealed that using the shadow programmer wired into the SL8 worked as intended, so, first you have to power up the SD, then you push the watertight pushswitch and the SL8 is paired and ready to use.
End of this week the servo's will arrive, so i can start building up the front bulkhead for receiving the two torpedo servo's and finish the soldering connectors on the extra wiring.
Manfred.Last edited by MFR1964; 01-09-2020, 12:53 PM.Leave a comment:
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Thanks,
I agree there is a lot of work envolved, building the hull/plug took most of the time, unfortunally there where running some side-projects through this build, at the end she will see the water, servo's are ordered.
Next batch of plumbing is ready, the white tubes are plastick, they will be used for the antenna wire.
This piece of tubing will go to the float of the SAS, it will be connected by a hose to the connecter which is present on the bulkhead of my middle part, i will take some pics to explain that, also pulled some extra wires to the frontpart of the SD for running the angle keeper and launchtube servo's.
Manfred.
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This Type-A of yours is perhaps the most ambitious r/c submarine project I've seen to date. It's most instructive to observe your solutions to big-league problems. A real beauty, Manfred.
DavidLeave a comment:
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Hah!!!, (thundering voice) IT'S ALIVE!!!!,IT'S ALIVE!!!!
It has become a MD (Manfredised Driver) instead of a SD, as for annoying you, i just like to poke you with a sharp stick to keep you sharp.
Greetings from the Great Foreigner Metric Empire.
Manfred.
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God damn, Manfred!! … why don't you get it over with, bend that poor SubDriver over a barrel, and have you way with it!????Firstly, happy newyear to all you bubbleheads.
As promised i'll post some pics from the progress i made these days, i allways like to molest David's SD's to my own standards.
The beginning with the motorpart
Placed the ESC and a Sombra SL8, re-routed the airlines by drilling some holes through the aluminum, this way the transistion is better, at least to my taste.
De-sparked the e-motor with the usual condensators, i never take the gamble if that motor is allready de-sparked factory stile without knowing.
Drilled the holes for my steering-rods which will control the torpedo tubes,and placed the feedthroughs, a old style powerswitch which i can access easely by taking of the " magnetic" bowpart.
The batterypack made from Eneloop cells, 7,2 Volt 2,5 Ah, i chose the heavy cells above a lipo because i want to have some weigth under the waterline, better heavy cells then useless lead.
The fat leads are for the power of the SD itself, the slim one's for charching the pack while it stays inside the SD.
So that was the boring part, for now i'm playing around with building up the plumbing Type XXIII style, me like tighty SD outside.
Manfred.
I send you a perfectly good WTC and you strap it to the lab table, cut it up, and turn the poor thing into Frenkinstein's half-brother!
Damned foreigners -- why do I bother!????
(by the way, nice work on display here, as usual, Manfred).
DavidLeave a comment:
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Firstly, happy newyear to all you bubbleheads.
As promised i'll post some pics from the progress i made these days, i allways like to molest David's SD's to my own standards.
The beginning with the motorpart
Placed the ESC and a Sombra SL8, re-routed the airlines by drilling some holes through the aluminum, this way the transistion is better, at least to my taste.
De-sparked the e-motor with the usual condensators, i never take the gamble if that motor is allready de-sparked factory stile without knowing.
Drilled the holes for my steering-rods which will control the torpedo tubes,and placed the feedthroughs, a old style powerswitch which i can access easely by taking of the " magnetic" bowpart.
The batterypack made from Eneloop cells, 7,2 Volt 2,5 Ah, i chose the heavy cells above a lipo because i want to have some weigth under the waterline, better heavy cells then useless lead.
The fat leads are for the power of the SD itself, the slim one's for charching the pack while it stays inside the SD.
So that was the boring part, for now i'm playing around with building up the plumbing Type XXIII style, me like tighty SD outside.
Manfred.
Last edited by MFR1964; 01-02-2020, 03:08 PM.Leave a comment:
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For now most shops are closed during these holidays, within a few weeks everybody is up and running, that will be the moment i will hunt the stuff down, i do own a small torch on butane gas, only have to get me some real silversolder and some flux.
To kill the time i've started with building up the SD, the servo's are ordered, pictures will follow soon.
Manfred.Leave a comment:
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Hey Manfred.. I don't know if you have a welding supply shop near you but that would be the best place to buy silver solder and the flux that would be required for it... And a regular propane or MAPP gas torch is sufficient to do small jobs..Leave a comment:
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