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Japanese Class A 1/16

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    The ordered servo's will arrive next week, just in time to replace the dummy servo's i used to get the arragement right, pictures

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    I had to make a bracket to house the servo's for the launchtubes, took some stock aluminum plate and bended the right shape, those white strips of evergreen will be used to fasten the servo's.

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    Took some broken servo's as a dummy to see at which position they had to be placed.

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    Bended the rods for controlling the launchtubes, it's a tight fitt around the control switches but enough room is left for moving them.

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    All wires in the rearpart of the SD are in, all connectors soldered and documented which is which.

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    Battery pack and levelkeeper are placed inside, made a small charging plug so i don't have to take the battery pack out during charging.

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    From left to right, levelkeeper, battery pack and the charging plug.

    For now i have to wait when i have the servo's, when arrived i can start building up the rear bulkhead and the front bulkhead and start testing my contraption.

    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:


  • george
    replied
    I may be wrong but your post 270 has No pictures showing. All previous ones are visible.

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    Ran into a ittybitty problem with the SL8, it would not hold the paired channel after power down,

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    Since i don't have any SL8 receivers anymore i came up with this, rewired a shadow programmer and connected it to the SL8

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    Normally you have to push a button on the shadow programmer to add the setting, i came up with the waterproof push switch to imitate that.

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    Soldered the switching wire paralel to the onboard switch, yet again i had to pull some extra wires to the frontpart of the SD.

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    I finished up the external plumbing on the SD, as intended i've got me a clean SD outside with a minimum stuff sticking out.

    After this contraption was wired out into the SD i could start with some basic testing, it revealed that using the shadow programmer wired into the SL8 worked as intended, so, first you have to power up the SD, then you push the watertight pushswitch and the SL8 is paired and ready to use.

    End of this week the servo's will arrive, so i can start building up the front bulkhead for receiving the two torpedo servo's and finish the soldering connectors on the extra wiring.

    Manfred.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by MFR1964; 01-09-2020, 01:53 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    Thanks,

    I agree there is a lot of work envolved, building the hull/plug took most of the time, unfortunally there where running some side-projects through this build, at the end she will see the water, servo's are ordered.

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    Next batch of plumbing is ready, the white tubes are plastick, they will be used for the antenna wire.

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    This piece of tubing will go to the float of the SAS, it will be connected by a hose to the connecter which is present on the bulkhead of my middle part, i will take some pics to explain that, also pulled some extra wires to the frontpart of the SD for running the angle keeper and launchtube servo's.


    Manfred.



    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
    Hah!!!, (thundering voice) IT'S ALIVE!!!!,IT'S ALIVE!!!!

    It has become a MD (Manfredised Driver) instead of a SD, as for annoying you, i just like to poke you with a sharp stick to keep you sharp.

    Greetings from the Great Foreigner Metric Empire.

    Manfred.
    This Type-A of yours is perhaps the most ambitious r/c submarine project I've seen to date. It's most instructive to observe your solutions to big-league problems. A real beauty, Manfred.

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    Hah!!!, (thundering voice) IT'S ALIVE!!!!,IT'S ALIVE!!!!

    It has become a MD (Manfredised Driver) instead of a SD, as for annoying you, i just like to poke you with a sharp stick to keep you sharp.

    Greetings from the Great Foreigner Metric Empire.

    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:


  • He Who Shall Not Be Named
    replied
    Originally posted by MFR1964 View Post
    Firstly, happy newyear to all you bubbleheads.

    As promised i'll post some pics from the progress i made these days, i allways like to molest David's SD's to my own standards.

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    The beginning with the motorpart

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    Placed the ESC and a Sombra SL8, re-routed the airlines by drilling some holes through the aluminum, this way the transistion is better, at least to my taste.

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    De-sparked the e-motor with the usual condensators, i never take the gamble if that motor is allready de-sparked factory stile without knowing.

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    Drilled the holes for my steering-rods which will control the torpedo tubes,and placed the feedthroughs, a old style powerswitch which i can access easely by taking of the " magnetic" bowpart.

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    The batterypack made from Eneloop cells, 7,2 Volt 2,5 Ah, i chose the heavy cells above a lipo because i want to have some weigth under the waterline, better heavy cells then useless lead.
    The fat leads are for the power of the SD itself, the slim one's for charching the pack while it stays inside the SD.

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    So that was the boring part, for now i'm playing around with building up the plumbing Type XXIII style, me like tighty SD outside.


    Manfred.
    God damn, Manfred!! … why don't you get it over with, bend that poor SubDriver over a barrel, and have you way with it!????

    I send you a perfectly good WTC and you strap it to the lab table, cut it up, and turn the poor thing into Frenkinstein's half-brother!

    Damned foreigners -- why do I bother!????

    (by the way, nice work on display here, as usual, Manfred).

    David

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    Firstly, happy newyear to all you bubbleheads.

    As promised i'll post some pics from the progress i made these days, i allways like to molest David's SD's to my own standards.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1839.JPG Views:	0 Size:	55.8 KB ID:	135813

    The beginning with the motorpart

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1840.JPG Views:	0 Size:	59.0 KB ID:	135814

    Placed the ESC and a Sombra SL8, re-routed the airlines by drilling some holes through the aluminum, this way the transistion is better, at least to my taste.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1841.JPG Views:	0 Size:	57.6 KB ID:	135815

    De-sparked the e-motor with the usual condensators, i never take the gamble if that motor is allready de-sparked factory stile without knowing.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1842.JPG Views:	0 Size:	48.4 KB ID:	135816

    Drilled the holes for my steering-rods which will control the torpedo tubes,and placed the feedthroughs, a old style powerswitch which i can access easely by taking of the " magnetic" bowpart.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1844.JPG Views:	0 Size:	54.1 KB ID:	135817

    The batterypack made from Eneloop cells, 7,2 Volt 2,5 Ah, i chose the heavy cells above a lipo because i want to have some weigth under the waterline, better heavy cells then useless lead.
    The fat leads are for the power of the SD itself, the slim one's for charching the pack while it stays inside the SD.

    Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1843.JPG Views:	0 Size:	54.7 KB ID:	135818

    So that was the boring part, for now i'm playing around with building up the plumbing Type XXIII style, me like tighty SD outside.


    Manfred.
    Last edited by MFR1964; 01-02-2020, 04:08 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    For now most shops are closed during these holidays, within a few weeks everybody is up and running, that will be the moment i will hunt the stuff down, i do own a small torch on butane gas, only have to get me some real silversolder and some flux.

    To kill the time i've started with building up the SD, the servo's are ordered, pictures will follow soon.

    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Gato
    replied
    Hey Manfred.. I don't know if you have a welding supply shop near you but that would be the best place to buy silver solder and the flux that would be required for it... And a regular propane or MAPP gas torch is sufficient to do small jobs..

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    Thanks for the explanation about the socalled silversolder, next time i will pay attention if it's the reall stuff, got me only 10 inch of that wrong stuff, i'll contact the local jewellers shop to get me the real stuff.

    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:


  • Bob Gato
    replied

    "During a few tests the propblades started to bend towards the torpedo-body, you would expect the other way, the other prop simply shattered, i must remark, all blades are silver soldered for strenght, what the hell is going on!!!"

    Sorry to see such nice work come apart by a marketing misunderstanding-That wasn't silver solder (noted by the dull gray color seen in the pictures) as is commonly thought of as silver solder- It was probably plumbing solder with silver in it (as found in Home Depot) that usually melts at around 450*F. Its just a little bit stronger then lead solder-True silver solder (now branded and referred to as silver brazing) melts at between 800*F and 1100*F. It is actually stronger than the brass! and will also join steel.
    As for the prop blades-bear in mind that the prop is trying to pull the torp forward...the forces on the prop tips are fwd and ultimately in an arc down to the torpedo body-the heat of soldering annealed the brass and probably made it very soft.Example-in airplane accident investigations ...if the prop blades are bent back when the aircraft contacted the ground, it means that the power was reduced or none- but if they were bent forward it means the ground was contacted with power on.
    Last edited by Bob Gato; 12-26-2019, 01:28 PM.

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  • MFR1964
    replied
    Props are refurbished, so ready for some testing, and now another issue, i don't want to run my boat with the torpedo's always inside, leaving the tubes open will give problems with scooping up all the water during driving.

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    So i made this, a set of plugs to place inside the tubes when i don't run the torps.

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    They fitt tightly inside the tubes, also added some slots for securing the plugs.

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    This is inside the plug, by turning the nut at the front you can lock them inside the slots of my tube.

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    Next stage in the evolution, stuffed as many holes i can get inside the plug, the goal is to get no airbubbles inside, that piece of styrodure at the end is used to get me a neutral bouyency, this way i can trim the boat with plugs inside the tubes.
    Why?, most of the time you will drive your boat without the torps, when you use them it will create some positive bouyency, i want to have my boat level after firing the torps and not drive her as some drunken idiot with the nose down, due to loss of bouyency.

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    So most of the time i will drive her like this, those targets have to take the gamble if she is plugged or armed.

    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    As promised the Vid,

    https://youtu.be/GVvj7U1DEBk

    After this test i decided to molest the tubes even more,

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    To solve the issue of pressure even more, i decided to drill some holes into the sides of the tubes.

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    As you can see i now have some inlets to get me a better free waterflow when starting up the torps.

    For now i'll dig up the jigg for reparing the old brass props and do some more testing with those props to see if my modifications work.


    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:


  • MFR1964
    replied
    As for the Master thing, i screwed up my torps, that is, props only, the rest is fine.

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    During a few tests the propblades started to bend towards the torpedo-body, you would expect the other way, the other prop simply shattered, i must remark, all blades are silver soldered for strenght, what the hell is going on!!!

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    I still want to do some tests this weekend, so i ended up with a slight modification, three blades nylon props, also a bit smaller diameter.

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    I coocked my brains about the propellor issue, my theory is that starting up those high torque torps sends a pressure wave agains the closed back of my tubes, this would explain the prop blades being bent towards the torpedo-body, the light went on when i was thinking about the tubes of my type XXIII, same method of launching but no shattered blades, the picture shows my solution, drilled as many holes i could into the backplate of my tubes.
    Now the pressure wave has a way to get away instead of deflecting, pretty much the same arrangement as on my type XXIII, tomorrow i'll shoot some vids about launching the torps, stay tuned.


    Manfred.

    Leave a comment:

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