For now the plate is full with the preparations at the house, building will start after a month or so, i can show you guys what i did last summer and some minor work this winter,
Trimming with the new amount of lead inside, she lays straight at last
All the foam strapped with elastic bands, yes, sometimes i listen to you David.
Aimed to get her slight positive, less than a inch above the surface, good enough for me.
Marked down the foam at the hull, the letters where noted down on the foam also to get them at the right place.
Stuffed down the foam inside the hull-parts, had to tinker it a bit because the two-shooter gave some problems with fitting the front part, cutted away some foam and replaced a few pieces under the big pieces, front-part fits like a glove.
For now she is ready for her maiden voyage this spring, when succesfull i will slap some paint on her and will play around with the torps, crawl, walk and run.
Manfred.
Japanese Class A 1/16
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Thanks Tom,
Detailling your boat makes it stand out in the crowd, and this japanese puppy will be finished.
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Thanks David,
Yeah it took some more time and effort to get to this point, the conical shape of this sub doesn't help either, splitting her by multiple radial cuts helps, it's pretty easy to get inside for the lead, i will get her running in the wild step by step.
As for difficult boat, still have the type 17 in the yard, that boat is a tough SOB, the rear a real nightmare.
Take you time with the 212, the MSD is your bread and butter which has to be done first, a man has to eat, as for details i have one rule, if it's possible i'll make it, why?, because it can be done.
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Yesterday the second attempt for trimming, added more foam and lead,
Added more foam around the tower, left the same amount at the bow.
No sinking like a brick anymore, pretty good, a bit leaning to the left, but that can be solved by shifting the foam near the tower.
This is the extra amount of lead and foam, the weight of the extra lead is about 200 grams, which i have to place inside, first i want to do that and then play again with the foam.
SD preformed perfectly, no leaks, so back to the cave to glue some lead inside, the total amount will be around 350 gram, i guess two or three times more trimming before the maiden voyage.
Manfred.
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Finally the heatwave is over, it became that hot inside the cave that my 2K epoxy glue behaved as superglue by setting off like grazy, during the intial trimming i discovered some things which i had to adress first before resuming trimming,
Drilling the ventholes at the keel created this problem for me, the trigger of the lower tubes gets hooked into the venthole during pulling off the frontpart.
Placed some bars inside the ventholes.
A bit crude, but this sub was crude build anyway, giving me two advantages, no big debry can enter and the trigger will slide over the bars without getting stuck into the vent hole.
Did today another job of placing the lead to counteract the weight of the tower, used flat lead and curved it conform the hull, the total weight of the tower is 100 gram, the ballast lead is 150 gram, so it should be enough to counteract the tower.
When trimming is finished i'll spray the lead with some primer to prefent desolving over the years, i drive in partly sweet/salt water which will affect the lead on the long term.
Manfred.
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Thanks Tom,
Despite i want to run her as soon as possible in the open water i have to keep myself at my checklist, this worked in the past and now, documenting the journey has a advantage, so i can look back how i builded some parts in the past instead of re-inventing the wheel.
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Originally posted by He Who Shall Not Be NamedBeautiful, Manfred. Beautiful!
David
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Manfred, looks great and I enjoy seeing the methodical steps you take!Leave a comment:
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Drooling allover.......wow that is one hell of a peice of craftmenship.......I wish I could see this in realtime....darn C19.
Grtz,
Bart
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Finally some progress and one step closer to the madenvoyage,
Builded up the testtank this weekend, filling her up.
The first victim to get the plunge, need to get the frontpart off to reach the power switch.
Without foam,lead and holes at the bottom, took some time to fill her up, wanted to see where i stand, waterline too high, rearpart nicely compensated by all the foam inside.
Testing the thrust of the dual propellor, works like a charm, loads of thrust, David has made this very good scale set of props for this boat, still hate you, rudder will be a issue, much too small to get a responsive turning-rate, have to see what happens in the open water.
Scope and antenna floats are in working order, low tech, but most effective.
Ballasttank full, plenty of overkill, have to play with foam and lead later on.
Resquebouye mechanism works, still have to add the safety wire, but for now i know that it works.
Result after a succesfull Saturday, only minor thing was, the rubber seal of the switch wasn't secured that good, got a few drops inside the SD, did a second pressure test after fixing this, no leaks anymore.
As you can see the Ko Hyoteki can fitt inside a small suitcase once taken apart, the magnets take care for easy build up and maintenance.
Progress on Sunday, drilled the holes with a step drill, these should be enough to get a good result in filling/raising up the boat.
Added some lead and foam to get a idea how she stands, the waterline has to become slightly higher.
All in all not a bad result, i know now i have to work with a bit of lead to counteract the conningtower, and a lot of foam, she sank to the bottom like a brick, luckely i have enough space inside the hull, and by using multiple radial cuts i can reach easely inside.
Have to tinker several evenings to get her tuned in, next step will be testing the torps and finally the maidenvoyage, stay tuned.
Manfred.
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Reinforced the hook from the resquebuoy and altered the buoy itself with adding some aluminum tubes for easier grip, started on the torpedotubes to get them connected to the SD, pictures
Had to take some things apart to make this happen, the hook works now like intended.
First step into hooking up the tubes to the SD, added a plastick tube to the magnetic connector to get more stability when hooked up.
This how it works, adding the tube gives more stability and the connection will not easely disconnect.
Hooked up to one of the tubes, it takes not that much force to make it move.
The other side works different without the lever and is a straight forward push movement.
For getting the boat under power you need to take off the front part, a easy task with the use of the magnetic connection, for now she is ready and on hold, have to build the testtank in the garden, first want to take the plunge unpainted to see if everything works as intended.
Manfred.
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