Japanese Class A 1/16

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

What did Adam use to thin out the glazing putty? And is the hypodermic needle reusable, or hard to clean?

High MEK bearing lacquer thinner.

Note that I replace the way-too-small original needle with a 1/16" o.d. brass tube -- big enough to pass the putty.

If the needle clogs, it clogs at the tip, just score 1/16" back from the tip and snap off the end, exposing still wet putty. During use I ream out the needle with a drill to address any in-work clogging. The loaded putty syringe is good for about a week -- enough time to do all the work on one model -- longer than that the plunger goes sour.

I'm showing off the 'weld lines' applied to the 1/16 Type-A master and the 1/12 KAIRYU kit.

[Von Hilde]

What did Adam use to thin out the glazing putty? And is the hypodermic needle reusable, or hard to clean?

[greenman407]

Wow, look at those counter-rotating props. What does that hull take, a 2" Subdriver? Dave , like me, youve got way too many irons in the fire at the same time. But thats what keeps this hobby interesting.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

Dave, are you going to produce Genes hull?

No, his was a much smaller model.

I'm thinking of finishing this 1/16th master and working it to tooling and parts for a kit. A joint project between me and Adam many years ago. He was apprenticing here at the time -- this was his graduate project. He left it here and I secured his permission to finish it and go commercial with the thing.

[Von Hilde]

Dave, are you going to produce Genes hull?

[Von Hilde]

Dad said "You buy Japanese, you get Japanese"

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

The Japanese have a saying that a wise man will climb Fuji, but a fool will climb it twice
I can still recite my twelve times table, but prefer to work in metric :)

The only piece of Japanese wisdom I got was from my Dad. Who recounted for me this little ditty: "lookie, lookie ... balls on hookie!" He was a WW-2 vet.

M

[Albion]

Imperial RULES! (any idiot can count to ten, real men go base-12)

Fair enough: one set carbon reinforced plastic, the other white metal.

David

The Japanese have a saying that a wise man will climb Fuji, but a fool will climb it twice
I can still recite my twelve times table, but prefer to work in metric :)

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm delighted to see the progress, more pleased that i annoy you, so, you want to make the props light, smart move, don't forget i have to rework them to our mighty metric system, most annoying that imperial system, wouldn't be metal easier?
Why not one cast metal,and one as your new lightweight brainchild, so i can compare both.

Manfred.

Imperial RULES! (any idiot can count to ten, real men go base-12)

Fair enough: one set carbon reinforced plastic, the other white metal.

David

[Von Hilde]

Resin cast works for me. Salt water friendly. I'm going with poly on the hull this time too. 75mhz 8 ch with sombra labs gizmo means periscope operational and torpedoes are feasable as well.

[MFR1964]

I'm delighted to see the progress, more pleased that i annoy you, so, you want to make the props light, smart move, don't forget i have to rework them to our mighty metric system, most annoying that imperial system, wouldn't be metal easier?
Why not one cast metal,and one as your new lightweight brainchild, so i can compare both.

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

once again you guys astonish me with your brilliance. Manfred, that shackle is spot on. right down to the cable crimp. Dave, when you cast up those 1/16 props, put me down for a set. I donated my 1/19 boat to the Nimitz museum. Going ahead on the 1/16th version. Tower is done, hull will be GRP this time tho. Learned alot more about the salt water issues with the type IX. Learning it the hard way is ok, my Dad said, "But you gotta be tough if your gonna be stupid" BTW thanks for the sombra labs pictures of the layout. Makes sense to me now. I have all the ducks, just didnt know the row order.

Yes! Manfred's a detail-freak of the first-order! Amazing stuff. I hate his living guts!

Sure, I would be delighted to make a set of propellers for you, Dave. I got this beautiful painting of TRUTTA hanging off the wall that says so.

Flash-traffic for you and Manfred: I'm not going to cast these wheels from white metal as originally planned. It occurred to me that these will be too heavy to be compensated with buoyant foam aft, as the sharply tapered hull will not accommodate the foam needed. So I'm going to cast these from carbon reinforced resin. Either polyurethane or epoxy -- I'll experiment to find which is best for the task. This will entail both centrifugal and pressure casting techniques. Epoxy will give me the pot-life to do this, but takes forever to cure hard enough to de-mold. Polyurethane will make me work as fast as a NASCAR pit monkey if I'm to get the work off the spin-table and into a pot before the stuff starts to harden. We'll see. I'll vacuum cast the dunce-cap.

Tool making is about done -- I'm working up the second half of the tools today. Casting tonight or tomorrow. Almost done.











All this work is given me the gonads to proceed with production of the 1/16 Type-A kit. News at Eleven.

M

[Von Hilde]

once again you guys astonish me with your brilliance. Manfred, that shackle is spot on. right down to the cable crimp. Dave, when you cast up those 1/16 props, put me down for a set. I donated my 1/19 boat to the Nimitz museum. Going ahead on the 1/16th version. Tower is done, hull will be GRP this time tho. Learned alot more about the salt water issues with the type IX. Learning it the hard way is ok, my Dad said, "But you gotta be tough if your gonna be stupid" BTW thanks for the sombra labs pictures of the layout. Makes sense to me now. I have all the ducks, just didnt know the row order.

[MFR1964]

YAHOOOO!!!!!

Manfred.

[He Who Shall Not Be Named]

I'm working up the masters right now for the propellers that will go on Manfred's Type-A. Should have them ready to send out by the end of the week.