Skipjack 1/72

[Scott T]

And don't forget to add the sail doors.:wink: They should fly open when tied to the dock or lock trolley.

Scott T

I wonder if they have armed guards riding those trolleys when the sub is pulled through the lock?

[greenman407]

I have also been strongly considering a working garbage disposal for the cook. You know, its got to eject garbage under seawater pressure without flooding the sub.
Are you going to put the Zincs on yours? Itll disturb the water flow.

[greenman407]

Peter, I can see that your working on the Akula, when are you, or are you, going to build a Skipjack?

[Peter W]

Mark, it is a case of where to stop at the moment, After the Akula I have really got to get the Vengeance back on track. I did have plans for a sub after that but ..................?

I might do one as it is a fantastic looking model.

Peter

P.s. I reckon you should have little crew members that come out of the doors when you have finished sailing to help dock her.

[greenman407]

Using 1" x 8" spruce, I made this stand for the sub. No more rolling around on top of the work bench. I lined the radial supports surfaces with stick on rubber weatherstrip.

[greenman407]

DANGER WILL ROBINSON............DANGER!!! In Daves instructions, he mentioned about putting Wax paper on both sides of the joint to keep the glue from going where it ought not. AND WOULD I LISTEN?.........NO, I only put the paper on the forward side because it was easier. Guess what happened? You got it. Some thin cohesive wicked into the cool little channels on the bottom hull that mate with the top. For about 2" on both sides. Kinda disappointing but Ill slip my Dremel diamond wheel blade on the lower side of the joint and open it up. That way ill only have one side of the joint to mend with Evercoat. BE WARNED!BLUSHER

[greenman407]

AND JUST LET THAT BE A LESSON TO YA..........HMPH!!! Its not so bad, As my Dad always used to say...."Ive had worse places in my Eye Before".

[greenman407]

Here we are. The aforementioned BooBoo can be addressed when its time to paint and otherwise make it pretty, operational considerations first ya know. Moving right along in our instructions, the next step is to dissect our hulls by cutting off the back cone of the upper section and the same with the front section of the bottom hull. The Classic "Z" cut. Ive used this cut on both the Oscar and the Albacore. The only way to fly. Not really a big deal, except I didnt care for the line I had established for the cuts. So I decided to cheat. Out came the company laser level.
Here you can see were back on the table that I used to glue the bottom halves together. Using the previously established centerline , I marked where the cut area would touch the table and using a framing square, marked out a 90 degree long line. Putting the hull down on the centerline I then set up the level to shine a red laser line to line up with my 90 degree line.. Then using a fine tip pencil I made marks on the hull. Then moving the level to the other side and carefully lining up on my 90 degree line, I marked the other side as well. I will do the same with the front piece. I bought a brand new Razor saw blade as the last one got dulled cutting GRP on the Oscar.

[greenman407]

The good thing about this level is that its pretty inexpensive, about $100. Also, its self leveling, just make sure that your table is level. Mine was not so I used a couple of quarters under two of the legs to get it level.

[greenman407]

A wrap around could have been used to mark the hull, If the hull was the same diameter all the way. But since it tapers, itll throw you way off!

[Peter W]

Mark,

I have got one of those laser level things has been used many times, great bit of kit. Hurry though Manfred has got his wet.

Peter

[greenman407]

Oh But Manfred doesnt have a Skipjack, hes got one of those High Falutin Type 23s. Hes also trying to reinvent the wheel, Im just plodding along, going the speed limit or just a tad over, mind you. (fertig zum unterwasser):biggrin:

[greenman407]

Dave, in times past I have heard you mention a product called "Renshape" I think. Im toying around adding additional details to the Skipjack(sensors and other such paraphernalia). I typed it in to the British Tools/Caswell website and it returned no results. Is it a two part epoxy like material or is it a piece that you cut what you want out of it? Is it expensive? Thanks

[MFR1964]

Oh But Manfred doesnt have a Skipjack, hes got one of those High Falutin Type 23s. Hes also trying to reinvent the wheel, Im just plodding along, going the speed limit or just a tad over, mind you. (fertig zum unterwasser):biggrin:

Nope, no Skipjack, burpppp, sorry, i can't control that, it's in the name.

Recharching the lightning generator, buffed up my new angelwing anodes, ready to fire in seconds, may you receive this well my friend.


Manfred.

[greenman407]

After doing a little research it appears that renshape is purchased in solid form and you cut out of it what you want. It says that it CAs and epoxys well. Dave , is that what the fittings kits green pieces are from?